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Hello,
I'm hoping someone can help me please.
I bought my lovely 206 cc. 2.0 last week and love it! But...I've noticed (after getting stroppy with drivers constantly doing 20mph in a 30 zone etc) that my speedometer is running 10mph slower than the speed I'm driving.

When I'm not moving the needle sit way below the 10 mark. I read somewhere it could be the wheels/tyres too big, they've got 205/45/16 extra load? I've never come across this in all my yrs of driving.

Does anyone have any ideas please?

Oh and please don't get too technical lol I'm female lol. I thought I'd ask here first before I went to a garage and get told a load of rubbish.
 

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Hello,
I'm hoping someone can help me please.
I bought my lovely 206 cc. 2.0 last week and love it! But...I've noticed (after getting stroppy with drivers constantly doing 20mph in a 30 zone etc) that my speedometer is running 10mph slower than the speed I'm driving.

When I'm not moving the needle sit way below the 10 mark. I read somewhere it could be the wheels/tyres too big, they've got 205/45/16 extra load? I've never come across this in all my yrs of driving.

Does anyone have any ideas please?

Oh and please don't get too technical lol I'm female lol. I thought I'd ask here first before I went to a garage and get told a load of rubbish.
Tire size looks OK, according to online calculator within 1% (0,85%)of the two sizes I got from the dealer for my RC (GTi180), 205/40-17 summer and 195/55-15 winter. And yours are actually the smaller ones (591 vs 596mm overall diameter), so should actually read higher on the speedo for the same actual speed.
By what I recall from my time in car parts store which also had a tire shop, +/-3% from OEM was considered OK

I'm assuming it's a used car, so might be that the previous owner has had the cluster apart and the needle didn't go back exactly where it should.

If bought from a dealer I'd take it up with them as the speedo is not within spec/reg - it should NEVER show lower than actual speed (at least in Sweden , but I would assume that's the case in the UK as well.)
 

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I believe the uk law used to be the speedo has to be accurate within + or - 10% of the actual speed. I'd also suspect the pointer has either been put back too low on the shaft or it has become loose and slipped.
 

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I believe the uk law used to be the speedo has to be accurate within + or - 10% of the actual speed. I'd also suspect the pointer has either been put back too low on the shaft or it has become loose and slipped.
Found this:How accurate is your car speedometer? #AskTCE

Significant bit: "The UK law is based on the EU standard, with some minor changes. A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph."

(as well as some other sites that all say about the same, -0% to +10%+ some small fixed amount)

Tried to follow the links to locate the base document, but soon tired digging through the piles... :nono:
 

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I believe the uk law used to be the speedo has to be accurate within + or - 10% of the actual speed. I'd also suspect the pointer has either been put back too low on the shaft or it has become loose and slipped.
I understand that the needle aligns magnetically and can lose synchronisation and slip by one or more sectors, which is what I think has happened here. The cure is stated to be to remove the "glass" front from the pod and gently move the needle in the appropriate direction until it jumps into alignment at the correct point.
 

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I understand that.the needle aligns magnetically
Huh?

The needle is stuck onto the axle, axle is moved by a motor (not sure if technically a servo, stepper or other type) along with some plastic gears and axles in a unit on the back side of the panel.

Not sure how much gears etc would like being pushed on - might be better to pull the needle off and push it back on in the correct position.

Here's a good description on how to get into the cluster (goes further than needed for moving the needles as it covers changing the LEDs on the circuit board, but that is just to ignore)
 

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OK, when I said needle, I should have said "the assembly of which the needle is the visible part". The rest is correct, according to previous posts on this board - you do not have to pull the needle off the shaft - just rotate it gently and it will align in the next position.
 

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Possible if late model with no speed sensor and ABS generated speed signal it's possible that pump has been changed and not recoded to correct wheel size
 

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Possible if late model with no speed sensor and ABS generated speed signal it's possible that pump has been changed and not recoded to correct wheel size
If it's just a scale factor, zero should still be zero, and the OP would probably not have found "When I'm not moving the needle sit way below the 10 mark."
 
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