I bought a 207 cc 1.6 petrol 88 kw from 2007 for my wife the other day. While driving the car home i started getting a sweet smell in the car from outside while windows were open. Did a lot of reading and came to the conclustion that there was an antifreeze leak. Followed my nose and came to conclusion that thermostat housing was leaking somewhere. There were some antifreeze leak marks on exterior pipes. Ordered new part online. Part is exactly the same and fits perfectly except it had one extra pipe fitting. I blanked that out with a silicone plug which did the trick. Now here is where my problems start :nono::nono::nono::nono:
I took a picture of pipes before removing thermostat not to forget....Unfortunatly my 6 year old daughter deleted the pics :-(
Have I reconnected pipes correctly?
2nd question :
I filled up anti freeze to minimal, opened heating inside car (not my AC) to max and started car. I saw immediatly that antifreeze started coming back into holder. Car worked for maybe 3 minutes, tempreture gauge inside did not move and all of a sudden went to MAXIMUM and got message to stop car. Fan started working. I immediatly turned car off. I have tested the electrical plugs of both sensors and i do get a current reading.
What am I doing wrong? Or is it the whole housing unit? I did try to find answers on the forum before asking, but did not find any.
Also when i drained old antfreeze, there was no oil mixed with it. So i take it that there is no cracked cylinder head or gasket blown.
Hi...you have an air lock in the cooling system....Im not familiar with that engine but if you top up the reservoir and with the engine off try squeezing the bottom hose and see if that
pushes the air to reservoir...that works on most ive worked on....
on my 1.4 vti there is also another bleed screw on top of the therm housing
just behind the vacume pump.look down and you should see a black plastic cap.
its not a tyre cap its got a cross on it for a large flat screw driver.
I have done that. I have "pumped" all the pipes. every time i pump i see the anti freeze going back into reservoir.
I have also bled the system " according to service book " both on thermostat and heat exchange pipe. What I do find strange, (according to service book) is that when you bleeding system, at heat exchange pipe (Where it goes into car heating system) it starts flowing out freely and its supposed to flow out freely on thermostat bleeder too. It doesnt. even if i leave bleeder off... yet with car working it does flow freely through that bleeder.
This morning car was cold, started it up and within 1 min......from gauge showing 70º it shot right up to Red area maximum and fan started working right away and got warning to stop car....
Yes indeed there is. As i told noddy-hol, I have opened it up to bleed. According to service manual its supposed to also flow freely before tightening screw with engine off. It doesnt. Yet with engine running , it starts free flowing...I found out the hard way with antifreeze shooting up into face
Im almost tempted to refit old thermostat housing just to check. I dont think it has to do with new housing part having a blanked off fitting as it is sold as being for my 207 cc
Hi.....is the temp sender in the housing...did the new housing come with one?if it did replace with the old one....sounds now like a faulty temp sender..i doubt if 1 min of running will overheat ,...I might be wrong tho..
I have mounted back old thermostat housing and its doing exactly the same thing...less than 1 minute engine running and temp shoots to max and says to stop car....
Also if im reading correct workshop chart of flow direction, I had the the 2 pipes wrong way around?
I have changed them the right way and still it does the same....
Also checked that out. All dry and perfect connectors....I have tested by leaving all sensor connectors off to thermometer... Still does the same thing....start the car and in less than a minute....fan kicks in
ok thinking outside the box here but is it possible to bung hole with old sensor and place new sensor with wires attatched into a pan of boiling water.
I did exactly that....i boiled water and connecte the sensor to loom and dipped the sensor into cup with old sensor in hole and engine running. It made no difference at all....no reading and same problem. From cold to max in under a minute...fan on......The only reason why i changed the thermometer housing was cause i could see a leak...it was working perfectly...would be a coincedence to both new and old sensor not working...and at sensor conector im getting a reading of 3.28 v I think. So there is current there...
I have also bled the system (I think correctly ) by both opening the bleeding valve on heater exchanger and also on housing unit itself......both run freely with no air coming out....
I have read some other posts where more ppl have complained about this problem, but have not found any with an actual solution
What could it be?
Remove the radiator cap, then start the engine & see what it does.
Just stand away from the radiator bottle because might squirt all over the show when your thermostat open.
If the temp gauge goes to max & the water isn't squirting out the radiator bottle, check the water in the bottle to see if the level hasn't dropped & that the water is moving which will indicate the water pump is working.
The engine is completly cold... i start the car and within a minute , thermometer goes from 70º to red and starts beeping and flashing to stop car and fan is working already. Yet engine is still cold and antifreeze is slightly luke warm...Are you suggesting that i let car run normal with bottle cap off and just let the water warm up normally to see if water pump is working after a few minutes? Wouldnt the water pump start to work immediatly as soon as engine is started?
at a loss, you did try ignition on/off a few times as noticed sometimes it takes this to clear a fault message after repair or reset with a obd2 reader.
i have also noticed turning engine off and quickly removing a battery lead resets the ecu but this is not recomended.
still think there is a chance of water getting up into the plug and causing a false resistance fooling the ecu but you would need to resistance check that.
Actually i have not done that yet...on /off a few times...I have just ordered the Lexia device to read the ecu and see what it says....Im going to try it quickly (on/off) and also blow out plug with air to see what it does...Thanks for that tip...
**** FOLLOW UP ****
Did the turn on and off key a few times and blew out the connectors with compressed air....still does the same
I followed your advice. I tested both connectors on Thermostat housing 2 wires on one connector + 2 wires on other connector. I put multimeter on audible resistance (makes sound when there is continuation of conductivity). All 4 wires from the two connectors reach the ecu plug. So i gather there is no damaged wires...any other advice electrically that i could try? This is killing me
should have made sure there was no shorting going on by setting meter to max resistance, if theres any water shorting within the plugs it will show up.
i always just wet my fingers and grab the meter probes just to check its working, if the plug shows a reading with it unplugged from the ecu its shorting.
After car engine at idle for about 5 min, ( fan started working in less than 1 minute) i could feel water coming back into holder slightly warm, hose that connects to top of radiator more or less same tempreature as water in holder yet bottom hose of radiator is cold and so is the water( i pulled the hose slightly off to feel the water that came out) ....Would this indicate something?
set your meter to max ohms, yellow section top digit on your meter.(20k?)
pop the probes into a cup of water to see a reading,
now dry off and check the two wires on the plug with the ecu plug out.
if you get a simular reading to the water then its slightly shorting and fooling the ecu.
think this is a electric issue as you have tested it in boiling water, dont think a bsi reset will work but hey try everything.
and talking of trying everything on other cars leaving the battery off all night has been known to sort all sorts of gremlins.
ive not read all this thread but has the water pump been checked to see if the impeller has fell off or spinning on its shaft also radiator checked for flow,and top
thin expansion tank pipe for blockages?
yes...i put the sensor plugged to connector in loom directly in boiling water......temp gauge inside car went from under 70º directly to max inless than a minute. I then tried water around 90 degrees which i measured with a kitchen thermometer and always the same outcome.....engine is cold and like in 30 to 40 seconds.....shoots to maximum and i get message to stop car. Yet water is still like slightly warmer to the touch than cold
just a thought, are you sure the original leak was from the housing and not the sensor?
just thinking if original sensor gone bad and aftermarkets just plain duff, like many are.
you have done a resistance check on the pins of the sensor?
Honestly i could not tell from exactly where the leak was coming from...there were too many old dry water marks over the housing unit...What i could visibly see was where plastic housing was factory joined there was a visible line that looked like the two pieces wanted to come loose...obviously they didnt as i did not loose any noticible antifreeze but the smell was overwhelming from that area..Could have been a tiny crack maybe..The old thermostat unit was working well...i just pulled one off and put new one in and that is when problem started...i refitted old one back and it still has the same "new" problem....Which is the best way to do a resistance check? Only tomorrow will i go back to figure out what is wrong with car....But i really do apreciate your help and from the other members...Thankyou to all
This is exactly what has been happening since I installed new thermostat 2 days ago...everything worked ok before I installed new thermostat...bled system...started car to do a 2x cycle and top up and check for leaks... like it says in workshop manual.
Car engine is cold ( hasn't run for imagine whole night)
I turn ignition on...petrol gauge goes up and temperature gauge goes up slightly to around the normal 70 degrees.
I start car up. Temperature gauge stays at around 70 degrees....
Less than 1 minute later, temprature gauge on dashboard shoots up to overheating maximum and I get a message to stop car.
I go physically check antifreeze temperature and it's just slightly luke warm... like 2 or 3 degrees up...
Fan stays working for like 5 or 6 minutes there after
So after I put on new one and started car , I got instantly this message and problem. Car did not run for 5 min...installed old one back and still has the same problem
You need to check BSI for fault codes with planet.
Faulty coolant sensor often triggers a fault code and temp gauge will go off the scale, fans running all the time and stop light will come on etc even with sensor has been changed.
The code needs to be cleared in the BSI for the temp gauge etc to work correctly again
Or at least that what i needed to do on the daughters old car. Also the temp sensor is different on VTI - some can be green or brown but they are not the same as the normal HDI green one. The incorrect one will fit and it will still give errors so double check right one supplied
Just got home and i followed this procedure to reset BSI.
1. Disconnect the diagnostic tool.
2. Put the driver’s window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all
equipment is switched off.
3. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the
ignition.
4. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait
15 seconds.
5. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do
not open doors.)
6. Switch on the side lights through the driver's window.
7. Switch on the ignition and check system’s functionality.
8. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds.
9.remove key open & close door test central locking system
10. Start the engine and complete the system’s check.
Still does the same thing...Engine has not run since yesterday and in like 15 to 20 seconds of engine running, fan was on and stop sign was activated.
I also left battery disconnected since yesterday afternoon.....but problem manifested itself right away....
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