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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a 207 cc 1.6 petrol 88 kw from 2007 for my wife the other day. While driving the car home i started getting a sweet smell in the car from outside while windows were open. Did a lot of reading and came to the conclustion that there was an antifreeze leak. Followed my nose and came to conclusion that thermostat housing was leaking somewhere. There were some antifreeze leak marks on exterior pipes. Ordered new part online. Part is exactly the same and fits perfectly except it had one extra pipe fitting. I blanked that out with a silicone plug which did the trick. Now here is where my problems start :nono::nono::nono::nono:

I took a picture of pipes before removing thermostat not to forget....Unfortunatly my 6 year old daughter deleted the pics :-(

Have I reconnected pipes correctly?

2nd question :

I filled up anti freeze to minimal, opened heating inside car (not my AC) to max and started car. I saw immediatly that antifreeze started coming back into holder. Car worked for maybe 3 minutes, tempreture gauge inside did not move and all of a sudden went to MAXIMUM and got message to stop car. Fan started working. I immediatly turned car off. I have tested the electrical plugs of both sensors and i do get a current reading.

What am I doing wrong? Or is it the whole housing unit? I did try to find answers on the forum before asking, but did not find any.

Also when i drained old antfreeze, there was no oil mixed with it. So i take it that there is no cracked cylinder head or gasket blown.

Once again thanks to all that can help me out...
 

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Hi...you have an air lock in the cooling system....Im not familiar with that engine but if you top up the reservoir and with the engine off try squeezing the bottom hose and see if that
pushes the air to reservoir...that works on most ive worked on....
 

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on my 1.4 vti there is also another bleed screw on top of the therm housing
just behind the vacume pump.look down and you should see a black plastic cap.
its not a tyre cap its got a cross on it for a large flat screw driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi noddy-hol

I have done that. I have "pumped" all the pipes. every time i pump i see the anti freeze going back into reservoir.

I have also bled the system " according to service book " both on thermostat and heat exchange pipe. What I do find strange, (according to service book) is that when you bleeding system, at heat exchange pipe (Where it goes into car heating system) it starts flowing out freely and its supposed to flow out freely on thermostat bleeder too. It doesnt. even if i leave bleeder off... yet with car working it does flow freely through that bleeder.

This morning car was cold, started it up and within 1 min......from gauge showing 70º it shot right up to Red area maximum and fan started working right away and got warning to stop car....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Matty..

Yep there is and I have bled it there. Its free flowing when open to bleed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi marrygold

Yes indeed there is. As i told noddy-hol, I have opened it up to bleed. According to service manual its supposed to also flow freely before tightening screw with engine off. It doesnt. Yet with engine running , it starts free flowing...I found out the hard way with antifreeze shooting up into face :)

Im almost tempted to refit old thermostat housing just to check. I dont think it has to do with new housing part having a blanked off fitting as it is sold as being for my 207 cc
 

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Hi.....is the temp sender in the housing...did the new housing come with one?if it did replace with the old one....sounds now like a faulty temp sender..i doubt if 1 min of running will overheat ,...I might be wrong tho..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes indeed it did come complete with a new one fitted. Give me a couple o minutes and ill let you know if it makes a difference....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi.....is the temp sender in the housing...did the new housing come with one?if it did replace with the old one....sounds now like a faulty temp sender..i doubt if 1 min of running will overheat ,...I might be wrong tho..

Nope....changed the new temp sender with my old one....started engine....less than i minute, temp gauge went to max and fan started immediatly

:confused::confused::mad::mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I have mounted back old thermostat housing and its doing exactly the same thing...less than 1 minute engine running and temp shoots to max and says to stop car....

Also if im reading correct workshop chart of flow direction, I had the the 2 pipes wrong way around?

I have changed them the right way and still it does the same....

Any thoughts ???

 

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Discussion Starter #13
time to check for coolant in the loom, pull battery lead and unclip 3 ecu plugs and fusebox plugs, check they are clean and dry.
my yearly check-

Also checked that out. All dry and perfect connectors....I have tested by leaving all sensor connectors off to thermometer... Still does the same thing....start the car and in less than a minute....fan kicks in
 

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ok thinking outside the box here but is it possible to bung hole with old sensor and place new sensor with wires attatched into a pan of boiling water.

would tell if sensor/wire issue or airlock
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok thinking outside the box here but is it possible to bung hole with old sensor and place new sensor with wires attatched into a pan of boiling water.

would tell if sensor/wire issue or airlock
I did exactly that....i boiled water and connecte the sensor to loom and dipped the sensor into cup with old sensor in hole and engine running. It made no difference at all....no reading and same problem. From cold to max in under a minute...fan on......The only reason why i changed the thermometer housing was cause i could see a leak...it was working perfectly...would be a coincedence to both new and old sensor not working...and at sensor conector im getting a reading of 3.28 v I think. So there is current there...

I have also bled the system (I think correctly ) by both opening the bleeding valve on heater exchanger and also on housing unit itself......both run freely with no air coming out....

I have read some other posts where more ppl have complained about this problem, but have not found any with an actual solution
What could it be?
 

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Remove the radiator cap, then start the engine & see what it does.
Just stand away from the radiator bottle because might squirt all over the show when your thermostat open.
If the temp gauge goes to max & the water isn't squirting out the radiator bottle, check the water in the bottle to see if the level hasn't dropped & that the water is moving which will indicate the water pump is working.
 

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at a loss, you did try ignition on/off a few times as noticed sometimes it takes this to clear a fault message after repair or reset with a obd2 reader.

i have also noticed turning engine off and quickly removing a battery lead resets the ecu but this is not recomended.

still think there is a chance of water getting up into the plug and causing a false resistance fooling the ecu but you would need to resistance check that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Remove the radiator cap, then start the engine & see what it does.
Just stand away from the radiator bottle because might squirt all over the show when your thermostat open.
If the temp gauge goes to max & the water isn't squirting out the radiator bottle, check the water in the bottle to see if the level hasn't dropped & that the water is moving which will indicate the water pump is working.
The engine is completly cold... i start the car and within a minute , thermometer goes from 70º to red and starts beeping and flashing to stop car and fan is working already. Yet engine is still cold and antifreeze is slightly luke warm...Are you suggesting that i let car run normal with bottle cap off and just let the water warm up normally to see if water pump is working after a few minutes? Wouldnt the water pump start to work immediatly as soon as engine is started?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
at a loss, you did try ignition on/off a few times as noticed sometimes it takes this to clear a fault message after repair or reset with a obd2 reader.

i have also noticed turning engine off and quickly removing a battery lead resets the ecu but this is not recomended.

still think there is a chance of water getting up into the plug and causing a false resistance fooling the ecu but you would need to resistance check that.
Actually i have not done that yet...on /off a few times...I have just ordered the Lexia device to read the ecu and see what it says....Im going to try it quickly (on/off) and also blow out plug with air to see what it does...Thanks for that tip...

**** FOLLOW UP ****

Did the turn on and off key a few times and blew out the connectors with compressed air....still does the same
 

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The engine is completly cold... i start the car and within a minute , thermometer goes from 70º to red and starts beeping and flashing to stop car and fan is working already. Yet engine is still cold and antifreeze is slightly luke warm...Are you suggesting that i let car run normal with bottle cap off and just let the water warm up normally to see if water pump is working after a few minutes? Wouldnt the water pump start to work immediatly as soon as engine is started?
No, this is definitely an electrical problem.
Is there somebody that can do a diagnostic test for you?
 
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