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Hi

got a prob with a sheared locking wheel nut. Ive taken it to a garage and they spent about an hr with a cobalt drill but gave up.

Just wondered if anyone has any experience of drilling thru these nuts? Was thinking about buying a carbide drill bit and giving it another go (seeing as the garage has made headway of about a cm into the head). Or if anyone else has an idea or better solutions would be interested to hear them.

Glen
 

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Yup, took me 7 hours to drill one off with hardened industrial drill bits.
All im going to say is good luck and get it off before you need it off.
I drilled a pilot holw of about 2mm then worked up until the head of the bolt came away, you dont want to drill all the way thru the bolt. Once the head is off remove the rest of teh bolts and the wheel and the remainin stud should come away by hand, or if needs be there should be enought left to get some pipe grips or molegrips onto the remainin thread.
Hope it goes well, take your time
 

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Once you've drilled a pilot hole surely a screw extractor will undo it, they're under a tenner from most accessory shops. Easier than trying to grind off the whole of the nut.
 

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Hi

got a prob with a sheared locking wheel nut. Ive taken it to a garage and they spent about an hr with a cobalt drill but gave up.

Just wondered if anyone has any experience of drilling thru these nuts? Was thinking about buying a carbide drill bit and giving it another go (seeing as the garage has made headway of about a cm into the head). Or if anyone else has an idea or better solutions would be interested to hear them.

Glen
last time what I did was get a deep impact socket that did not quite fit over and hammered it on and used impact gun to take it out prob is you say bye bye to the socket
 

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Once you've drilled a pilot hole surely a screw extractor will undo it, they're under a tenner from most accessory shops. Easier than trying to grind off the whole of the nut.
The extractor will sheer and because they are hardened you cant drill them, leads to a whole new world of sh!t
 

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last time what I did was get a deep impact socket that did not quite fit over and hammered it on and used impact gun to take it out prob is you say bye bye to the socket
think this would be my thought on it also


Mine thankfully were taken off by the previous owner It cost him £80 per wheel to have them removed :eek:
 

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One locking bolt had gone on my last 307. Was going to get a bolt welded to the locking bolt and try to remove it that way but before I got round to it some numpty decided to park their punto in the side of my car and wrote it off. When I got the replacement I decided to remove the locking bolts first thing. Strangely, the locking bolts came off real easy - it was the standard bolt that I struggled with. Still replaced the locking bolts as they are bound to fail just when you need to remove the wheel.

I'd go with the smaller socket or trying to weld another bolt onto the locking bolt before trying to drill the head off.
 

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Worst design of lock nut I've ever seen. When I got my 2nd 307 I made the dealer replace them with standard bolts before I got it!
 

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Worst design of lock nut I've ever seen. When I got my 2nd 307 I made the dealer replace them with standard bolts before I got it!
Peugeot locking wheel bolts are an absolute pig to remove. In my experience most Peugeot main dealers charge about £100 to remove a set losing financially nearly every time due to the time involved. With the greatest of respect to all, does this not make them the best design of lock as a security device if you don't want your wheels nicked? Every situation I have seen has been a result of them being over tightened. Outside of most peoples control, I know, so be sure to ask whoever last removed the wheels the last time for a guarantee that they were torqued correctly.
 

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Hopefully you have it off by now, but a solution to this is:

1. drill a small hole 3mm wide 5mm deep in the exact centre - this is just a starting guide. use metal cutting fluid.
2. use a Die Grinder and carbide burr. You can go straight in with 12mm or use a smaller (8mm) one first. Keep it straight! One you are deep enough the bolt should break allowing you to remove the wheel, leaving just the hub to deal with. If this doesn't happen once you know you are are at the wheel run a 13mm drill bit in, then 13.5 until it does break. Dont go too deep with this though.
3. Grind the rest of the way through the bolt centre, then run a 13mm drill bit through followed by a first-cut 14x1mm tap to break away whats left of the threads.

If all kept straight its fine, if you damaged any original threads you need to use a re-threading kit. (eg Heli-coil, other makes available)

While grinding a small magnetic pickup tool is great for cleaning out the hole.
 

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I had a problem on a volvo with this. It cost me £300 in the end because they had to keep welding rods onto the bolt to try to get it off. ending up TIG welding one on in the end
 

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I had two on mine I couldn't get off . Luckily hammering a smaller size socket on one got that shifted .
The other I drilled into . They aren't really hard but I did use cobalt drills and tried a screw extractor which unfortunately snapped !!
I ended up taking it to a local garage and they had to use an air chisel .
Only cost £25.
Ive bought some decent locking wheel nuts now thankfully
 
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