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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I'd make a new topic now that I know the problem is electrical.

Car has had a problem for a long time with cold starting issues and lack of boost. I have since realised that this was because the car is having trouble reading inputs from various sensors. Almost overnight it went from one or two intermittent faults to half a dozen permanent ones and the car would not start at all. It seems any sensor I go near now becomes a permanent issue even though I know they are fine and the wiring to them is good.

Recently I've noticed that the egr buzzes very loudly with ignition on and as of today the power steering pump came on on it's own without the engine running.

I believe it is something to do with the ecu or fuse box because I have never had fault codes for the maf, glowplugs or air con sensor but after unplugging and probing the wires for continuity they are now also permanent faults. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
https://youtu.be/PT-UZd1DYbg

Ps: I'm confused that if the previous owner changed the ecu then would he have changed the bsi and transponder as well? I suspect my fusebox/bsi but have been reading that you can't just replace the bsi although there are plenty being sold online.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Thought this might help. What seems to be happening is when I unplug certain sensors and then plug them back in they still register as open circuit. I believe my car didn't start back up that day because I unplugged the cam sensor and when I plugged it back in it decided not to recognize it. It has done the same with the glow plug relay and the air con pressure sensor. These systems haven't thrown a code in the 18 months I've had the car. But after my problem got worse. Unplugging them sent them hay wire.
 

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You should try this:

1st Option, try resetting the BSI:

PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY DIS-CONNECTION (The 3 Minute Rule)
========================================================
Whenever a vehicle battery has to be dis-connected, switch off all equipment,
interior lights etc, close the doors leaving the drivers window open.
Switch off the ignition and remove the key and any DIAG equipment.

Wait a full 3 minutes before disconnecting the battery.

The BSi must be allowed to go to SLEEP i.e. into "power save mode". Do not
operate any equipment on the vehicle during this time. Remember, even
opening the bonnet will wake the BSi on a vehicle fitted with alarm / bonnet switch.

If the battery is under the bonnet, open the bonnet first and leave it up. 807
batteries can be dis-connected through the drivers window, remove floor cover
first.
ALWAYS disconnect any DIAG equipment and do not operate any plips from any
other vehicles during the 3 minute waiting period.


PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY RECONNECTION
==================================
Unless otherwise instructed by Product Service, you must always
carry out the following procedure, often referred to as a "soft re-boot", to
minimise the possibility of the BSi corrupting its own software when
reconnecting the vehicles battery supply.
Ensure the procedure for battery disconnection has been adhered to and
importantly all BSi functions were switched off with the drivers window left
down.
1 Close all doors
2 Remove ignition key if left in ignition
3 Reconnect battery. DO NOT open any doors
4 Wait 10 seconds
5 Switch on headlights through the drivers window (you will hear a "bong") (note: Snap-on says Side-lights)
6 Switch on ignition then start the vehicle and check system functions

NOTE: Upon reconnection, if any vehicle function controlled by the BSi i.e .
interior light is switched on,the internal operation of the BSi has the potential
to spike or corrupt its configuration and software program......

2nd Option:
Use pp2000/diagbox or other obd interface to check for faults and reset them.

3rd option:
Try using pp2000/diagbox to reset the BSI - there are videos on yourube on how to do this.

4rth option:
You can replace the BSI with a second hand one, but you need to 'virginize' it, this involves reading the BSI with a programmer, dumping the software from it and either running it though a program to virginize it - or editing the dump with a hex editor and replacing all bytes with FF values. After that reprogram the BSI with the virginized file, then you need pp2000 or diagbox to reprogram the BSI into the car + keys. (videos are on youtube how to do this).
 

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Working from the fuse box/ecu you are going to have to untie the looms and eyeball the lot unless you get a friendly electrician with a scope on his laptop who could check them without breaking into the loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How far do I need to trace back? I've checked the engine loom and behind the glove box. Will I have to also check the wiring into the car that runs to the ignition?

What I'm getting at is. Is the engine loom isolated from the systems and wires inside the body or is it all connected. I ask because besides economy mode locking my Windows the rest of the in car systems are fine. Just the signals from the sensors. Does my CAN do this? Or is that what is known as the bsi/bsm/body control module? It's so complicated.
 

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You are being sidetracked again!! Do the basics first. Work backwards from the fuse box and ECU and check the looms as the likeliest place for damage will be under the bonnet. Once you can eliminate them you can plan the next inspection. There will be no shortcut but methodical working will pay dividends.
I thought in your previous thread that you were going to get an electrician to have a look. Did you and if so what did he find?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've got the weekend off so got some serious stripping down to do. I'll be taking your advice and tracing any wire in and out of the fusebox and ecu to the other end hopefully. May have to find some more diagrams to save time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you. And if I could start it I would be driving up there right now reliable. Unfortunately I think she's only going to start when she's finally fixed. Shame I didn't get it up there while it was still running but now I'm locked in to a fix it or give up situation so it's fixing time


@reliable406. Fancy a weekend in North Wales? Inches from Snowdonia national mountain range and the ocean. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bit of an update. Been through all of the wiring to the pump and all looks good. My friend was here earlier and he did continuity checks from the pump solenoid. The red wire gets continuity at 3 pins on the fusebox. But obviously only while plugged in to the fusebox. Is this normal feeding 3 circuits like this or is it a sign that my fusebox is bleeding systems into each other?

I also noticed low voltage to my turbo position repeat at the connector near the cam sensor. It used to read 7v which I thought was a bit low. Now it reads 2.4v today after checking it after a few cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been through it all. I can't find any noticeable problems with the wiring. Which means now I need to know what systems effect power to the ecu and eliminate them. I suspect something to do with the supply relay as it clicks on ignition on but it won't actuate under Peugeot planet and neither will any of my other solenoids on the circuit. I know there are no shortcuts but surely there has to be information on what power goes to what pins in and out of the ecu.

Surely it's easier to probe each pin until you find a bad reading and fix it rather than strip the entire wiring loom assuming it's a bad wire.

You say I'm getting side tracked but I've spent weeks checking wires and haven't found anything out of place. Besides an ecu that thinks it's a PlayStation
 

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Then as I suggested earlier send it away to be checked. If all is well then all you pay for is postage.
It would have been nice if you mentioned you had checked all the wiring in your last post so that I would have known. As I mentioned I tried to find a pin diagram but even the people who I sent the ecu to could not help as every one is different apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update. Finally got someone who will take a look at it. Explained the symptoms and he has agreed to pick it up tomorrow and take it up to his workshop. I'll keep you all updated. Fingers crossed I'll get a 2.0 turbo when it comes back haha
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to pick your brains before the car goes. Remember I said I was losing signal to the cam and then after probing it it would not start. After checking a few more systems and then getting complaints it got me thinking.

I've been probing on my own and only have 2 hands so I clicked the probe into the connector. My friend said this is not good as it opens the spades up and it won't connect properly. Is this plausible? And if so can I open the connector up and bend it back to check my cam and see if it starts?
 

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So you have disconnected the sensors and then checked the open plug for voltage by jamming a probe of sorts into the female plug receptacle. What size was the probe? Was it a genuine probe which you can get which is like a long pin or a small screwdriver or the like?
 
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