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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ran some live data and the results aren't good. When I stomp the throttle and call for around 2300mbar of boost nothing happens. Then it slowly lumps in increments of around 200mbar a time and runs out of revs before I get to the referenced value. I took it up a hill before as it can't pull up it past 3k rpm in fourth at 70 and you can hear the turbo. Dump, spool, dump spool. It has a new turbo solenoid. No vac leaks. Swapped around the egr solenoids with another and bypassed them. Still no joy. Any ideas guys? Running out of options here. Also had a recon turbo with new repeat sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Update. If French is left to right. These are the wires to injector 1-3 Would this bleed voltage into the other sensors? I'm going to repair them now and trace the rest of the loom while here. Already repaired the turbo and crank feeds that rubbed in the same place a few weeks back.

Ps: 4 snapped copper threads to one injector. I would laugh if I was running on 3. Would it be enough to kill an injector feed?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stripped back the wires and used some block connectors to re attach them. Taped everything up and no boost. Every 3 ignition cycles I get p2565 high input circuit. I checked the plug to the turbo solenoid and it make 5v reference and 12.6 volt power. When you start the car it climbs up to 7v reference and nearly 15v power. Is it bleeding in from another wire somewhere? I'm confused. And my position repeat seems to have two 5v reference rather than a 12v power
 

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A few broken strands would not drop voltage and the damaged insulation is no problem unless the core wires are earthing. Those inline connectors in the photo, what circuit are they in and how long have they been on the car? The first photo where you have your thumb the cables behind are damaged too!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Sorry. The blue connectors are from a few weeks back. My friend found frayed wires and put them in and it made no difference. He missed the injector ones so I taped them up and put a block connector anywhere there was broken threads.

I repaired the 3 injector wires and the feed to the connector that then runs to the repeat sensor cable down to the turbo. I have traced it back to the ecu and no cuts anywhere else. For some reason I'm getting high voltage and no boost at all since the repair.

I have tried unplugging the cable from the connector and it still shows high voltage. It's been intermittent since I got the car and I always had a feeling it was the problem. Since repairing the broken section of wire it is a permanent high voltage fault. Almost like it was losing voltage when rubbing and now it's too high now repaired. Is it possible someone wired it to the new ecu wrong? I don't get how repairing wires can cause a bigger problem.

Ps: picture 2 shows a blue connector with multiple wires. Doesn't look factory? And picture 3 is just a dirty earth if you think it's worth a clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
This is the sensor. Pin 1 & 2 koeo and pin 1 & 2 with engine running.

4.89 pin 1 engine off
4.95 pin 2 engine off
4.90 pin 1 engine on
4.97 pin 2 engine on
They seem to fluctuate by like 0.01 anyway. What is the biggest cause of high voltage? Bad alternator wiring?

I can only think that the excess voltage was shared with the frayed injector wiring and now everything is separated and insulated that it's all going through the repeat sensor cable. Doesn't seem over by much but enough to put my repeat position at 97%
 

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That earth certainly needs sorting out as bad earths are the main source of electric problems on cars. After all that is the return circuit and is just as important as the feed. If that one is that bad I would go through the rest of them on the car with a fine tooth comb.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Just checked it out. It looks bad from above but the contacts themselves were shiny and clean. I really don't get this. I was expecting problems because of a dodgy wire(s) and thought I'd be sorted after a bit of tlc. Only this car. It must be a short to power. I doubt I should be getting 2 4.8v signals. One should be 12v I'm sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just read somewhere that an unplugged sensor from the same circuit can cause high voltage to another. Just like when I unplug my maf and it makes the iat read high voltage. Is it possible that the pre cat sensor being unplugged is causing high voltage to my tprs? I'm pretty much out of options besides tapping the wires closer to the pcm to see if the voltage is lower there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey guys I need some help. I was checking over the turbo wires and voltage to cam sensor and stuff and now the car won't start. Has my pcm finally failed? Can I check it on Peugeot planet? I've been noticing an electrical hum from the glowplug relay for a while now. It stays on the whole time the ignition is on?
 

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Stop using silly acronyms for everything as some wont have a clue what your on about and some like me cant be bothered deciphering that a pcm actually means ECU

Im not sure what you actually think the issue is here the wires on the injectors could well have shorted out but they should be ok i have seen worse still running !

Some engine sensors get power from the ecu and run at 5 volts not 12
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry. I came back from college and parked up. Inspected the turbo repeat sensor voltage and the same with the cam sensor. The p2565 code is considered electrical only. If voltage goes over 4.8v and mine rests at 4.89. After checking things over and plugging everything back in the car won't start.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
The reason I think it's electrical is because whenever I go anywhere near the turbo connections it throws codes and like now decides not to start. Like you said I've touched up some insulation and now it's worse. Cam sensor no signal comes and goes. High voltage to turbo repeat comes and goes. Intake air temp after exchanger and more. The previous owner replaced the ecu already.

I will take your advice and check other earths on the car just in case but something electrical isn't right. Can the plastic connectors themselves become compromised?

Here's the new repeat sensor loom.
And freeze frames of what's coming up since repairing the wires to the turbo repeat.
https://youtu.be/wsUW5XskYB4
 

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Dont know how relevant to your problem but in the video code P0098 intake air temp at the air flow sensor shouldnt be -50c surely?
Have you got the airflow sensor uplugged ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
No it's plugged in. It's showing negative values for most things on that circuit. Intake air temp sensor. Turbo solenoid. Turbo position repeat and sometimes cam sensor. Which I believe is the reason it won't start. That or the ecu has been damaged due to shorting wires. The only thing unplugged is the pre cat exhaust gas temperature sensor. Upstream of catalytic converter. I don't know if this would effect voltage to the others but I think I need to get an auto electrician in and have the ecu checked out. In the mean time at the very least I'm going to replace the wiring to all associated sensors and try and trace the unplugged sensor feed from the ecu. It's either missing or part of the other loom that feeds the dpf sensors and fuel pump etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The reason I know it is wiring is because I have vacuum to the turbo solenoid and a brand new solenoid. As well as a brand new turbo with sensor. It can only be electrical. I have replaced near every sensor on the car and they still throw codes. I know you say a code is what has happened and it's not live data but it is. I'm clearing these codes and watching them come back in real time. If -100% to a sensor reference isn't a wiring problem and a new cam sensor that won't start the Car, then I don't know what is.

Ps: I'm only going to get another few tries before the battery needs charging up but it won't start this morning and there is 11.5v going to the cam sensor and a 4.95v reference. It seems to be seeing it but not having it. Should I get underneath and probe the crank sensor? I have a spare in the garage. One of the only sensors I haven't changed yet. I can't see what else could cause a non start after it's been running and starting fine lately.
 

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If the ecu is not getting the cam sensor signal it will not start its not an ecu fault unless something has shorted out but to be honest i have only ever seen that once in 20 years and the car did still start !

You need too use planet to see the signals that are or are not getting to the ecu this is far quicker and better than probing for voltages.

Once you know what is working and what is not THEN you can do some probing

We have a mondeo here with random non start long story but it worked fine when we got it fitted another engine in now its hard to start but engine worked fine in doner car this car worked fine with old engine so again it has to be wiring its nearly always wiring :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'm tripple checking things to make sure. I can't see where this exhaust temp sensor could go though. Doesn't seem to be any spare wiring going anywhere obvious. The good news is that there are no more brakes in wire anywhere and everything has been repaired properly. It's not happy though. It's complaining about a lot of the electrics. And I may have touched the turbo wire to the body while I was replacing the inline connector. Hopefully I haven't shorted something out. If I have it's my own fault for not taking the battery off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
As you can see in the first pic I only have wires for: from left to right. Crank sensor. Turbo position repeat. Injectors. Glowplugs.Camshaft sensor and turbo solenoid. Picture 2 is identical to the pre cat one. But nothing obvious coming from any of the looms. I swear it's just missing.

Ps: my dad had a problem with his 206 hdi 90 2.0 when some water dripped on a motherboard and his wipers stopped working. Is it possible part of my ecu is at fault but not all of It? It still speaks to pp2000 but always unknown reference and I have always had to speak to the way through engine/automatic gearbox/diesel/rhrsiemenssid803
 

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