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Discussion Starter #1
Is it an easy enough job and what tools would I need.

Stuck in the south of France with worn out rear pads.

Thanks
 

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Very easy mate i think you need 13mm spanner and a wind back tool if it's just the pads.
I did some a few Weeks ago but have a memory like a sieve when it comes to recall lol.
I actually did pads and disks but as i say 13mm takes off the bit which holds the pads in, if not it's a t50 torx.
then i mole grip/clamp the flexi (GENTLY) then undo the bleed nipple, wind in the piston, close nipple, clean sliders etc and wire brush the sides of the pads and put a touch of copper slip on them (sliders and back of pads) which prevents them from binding due to being too stiff, then refit and a quick bleed and all done.

So
Brake pipe clamps/Mole grips
13mm spanner/socket(just double check)
T50/t55 torx key/socket(just double check)
Windback tool/big adjustable pliers x2
Copper grease/equivalent

note i have given options to do it properly/blag it if you don't have lots of tools,
Ideally you should have a torx socket rail and regular socket set as basic tools :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. really appreciate your help.

When you say wind in the piston, do you also mean force them back to enable the pads to slide in/out ?

I'm old school and used to use a large screwdriver to force them back.

Regards
 

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On these it's a twist and push affair so you can't push them in like the front and you can't twist them in either you have to twist and push which is what the wind back tool does, i said 2 pairs of big adjustable pliers may do it or 1 pair and a big screw driver also they are sided so 1 will wind in 1 way and the other will wind in the opposite way, i can't remember which tho but you will see the piston going in when you do it.
You need to wind them in or you won't get the calliper over the new pads.
It is a fairly easy job and if you have a cheap tool shop you can get what you need for a good price, i have the wind back tool myself but have done loads without it it it's just more time consuming provided your pistons aren't stiff as hell,.
 

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you could also just clamp the flexi pipe (as a get home repair) , if the pads are worn down that far they can be an absolute git to get the piston to screw back in , be warned
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Found a set of pads and all done. Just changed one side, a right bugger to get that piston wound in

Thanks gents

Regards
 

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I'm quite intrigued by this, admittedly i have always done the complete set as a job but can some 1 pls explain to me why it is apparently life threatening to change both sides at once?? I can only think of it changing the life expectancy of 1 set of pads over the other but i can't see what the problem is lol.:confused:
:)
 

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A major imbalance is never good but you can get that from sticking callipers or brake dust build up/collapsed flexi pipes etc but there is no indication that new pads v old pads will do it, unless the old ones were grinding metal in which case i wouldn't risk ruining the disks by driving.
You could say the old pads are worn in where as the new ones aren't so that has to cause an imbalance but you would drive carefully knowing you have only done the 1 side..

Mmm this is a curious 1.
Well veg has probably done it now and thinking wtf are we all on about lol
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi

It was 41 degrees and I didn't have the correct tools so just one side was more than enough for me.

It was perfect and didnt effect the car balance at all. Drove over 700 miles home with no bother at all.

Car goes in to Peugeot on Thursday for pads and discs on the rear.

Regards

Veggie
 

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Hi guys
Going to change the rear pads of my 2006 307SW very soon and I'm looking to buy a brake rewind tool to do the job easily
Looking on eBay and they have right tool and left tool..
Which one do I need for the 307, I think I read here somewhere that only one sided tool is needed for the 307
Can someone confirm please and if someone has bought one on ebay please post the link here

Thanks :thumb:
 
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