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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a feeling that the timing pulley has to be taken off before it is free. Anyone know? All the mounting bolts are out and it wobbles about but no more.
It is a 2007 model.
 

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Loosen the centre nut on the pulley refit the mount bolts loosely to support pump then tap the edge of the pulley to loosen pulley from the taper then remove nut/bolts and it will come free.

That is for the 4HZ engine type which is what i expect it to be.
 

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When i removed the pump on my old 307. I timed up the engine and pinned the crank and cam. Slackened and removed the belt then used the timing pin hole on pump to lock pump slackened the pulley bolt and pump mounting then used copper mallet to free the pulley then removed pump
 

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As is usual we dont have all the info IE what you are actually doing but you can remove the pump without messing the timing if you do it carefully as stated in windys post i have done it many times to test pumps before selling them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I want to get the pump off for replacement of the o rings that i ordered a kit for.
So, you think that the timing should be ok? I only have the book for the earlier engine and don't know where the flywheel locating hole is.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I stripped the pump but found that the oil sealing portion of the main shaft is deeply grooved. Are these parts available?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I did not press the seal in quite to the full depth and refitted the pump with new seals. Ran much better, but just at the top of my road I went to turn left and the engine cut out. I did notice a pollution warning on the central console and the yellow engine light is on. The key plays a tune when the door is opened.
The engine will not start now. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Do you know where the timing hole for the flywheel is on the 4HW engine? Just found out it is to do with the side of keyway and cast raised block
I will have to check it again. I have an idea that I tightened the tensioner the wrong way and it has pulled away.
Before this happened, I did notice it would not run faster than 3.2k rpm
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The belt is exactly how it was before with no lack of tightness. It was running then and suddenly stopped when I took the foot off the pedal.
However, now I have the covers off I will check it is correct.
I inserted a 8mm bolt into the locating hole (front) for the camshaft pulley, using the nut on the pump to gently turn the engine so it lined up.
The keyway on the crank does look a little off, so I will investigate the correct position before proceeding.
I think it has a dual mass flywheel with no timing hole and taken off the starter to verify. How should the keyway on the crankshaft look? I saw a picture somewhere and can't find it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I undid the three bolts on the camshaft pulley and set it to the crankshaft key with the rear of the key to the front of the raised casting but although I can get it running, I must have broken a valve lifter as I can hear the chuffing. As you can imagine I am gutted, but will persist with this until I can do no more.
 

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Timing pin for crank is through the front of block into flywheel regardless of dual mass or otherwise timing holes on ALL 2 litre and 2.2 hdi engines are exactly the same.

Sounds like your belt jumped or you had it 1 tooth out sadly you now have a fight on your hands as you must get all 4 injectors loose to enable the rocker cover to be removed to replace any broken rockers.

IF you can get the injectors out the rest is easy the fact it runs is a bonus as you can use the heat and compression to help release them loosen all the clamp bolts for all 4 injectors NOT THE PIPES just the clamps holding them in DO NOT fully remove just a few turns on each one run the engine till they start blowing smoke or are obviously loose then tighten up keep going till all 4 are loose then remove the pipes etc and pull out injectors if you are lucky you will get them out if not you may need a new engine !!
 

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Its only a small hole in the web it is slightly above the starter but if you have crank pulley off the woodruff key is at 12 oclock in relation to block when at TDC bear in mind engine is inclined back a little.90 degrees to sump line


Actually now i think about it a bit more i seem to recall some 2.2 blocks have the timing pin hole on the rear of the block near the driveshaft !

I have to be honest and say i only ever pin the camshaft as i use the woodruff key as my crank setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So when yesterday I SAID THAT THE CRANKING SPEED WAS HIGHER THAN USUAL, (sorry) it would have disguised the open or bent valve as they would have all been leaking? So now, there is a possibility that the head will need to come off?
It's looking worse.
 

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NO THERE ARE NO BENT VALVES !!!!!

The reason i asked about the faster turning speed is because when the rockers break the valves stay shut so engine turns easier with nothing to compress these engines DO NOT bend valves they just break the rockers you simply replace the broken rockers and it goes again i have NEVER seen a bent valve sometimes they drop valves at mega high miles but never bend them.
 
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