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Discussion Starter #1
After looking at a ebay video and with a pretty good appreciation of cars etc...

Got stuck when removing the rear shock from top mount...its all out and off the car. Just cant figure it, what an idiot?
Is there a trick, tip or something else to remove it....help???!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Rear shocks replacement...in the air on jacks

Car is up on jacks right now just need to do this and re- assemble.....before I freeze my nads off!
 

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Easiest way is you have an impact gun to get the nut of the top the shocker,
or i cant remember if its a torx or an allen key to hold the shocker whilst slackening the nut but if its rusty this is unlikely to work.

last time i done it i didnt have an impact gun and it was too rusted up for me to hold with an allen key so as i was renewing the shocker any i had to grind 2 flat spots on the side of the ram and hold it with a stilson whilst slackening the nut with a 6 point socket...not the most professional way of doing it but it got it done :)..
dont try this unless your fitting a new shocker obviously

Terry
 

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As above I was changing my shocks so just cut through rod with grinder. Second option could be to split top nut to remove and then fit new nuts

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Terry

Terry....
Yes it looks a square top end of the rod secured with standard hex nut at the top.
Did put in a vice but the fecker just kept spinning still!
It concerned me as well that I might shatter it (being so cold) so only did it as tight as I thought was enough.:(

Wow... hearing you ground the shaft sounds like you were definitely not getting beaten!:eek:

Safe on the jack overnight for now and will stay there till the moring after I take a trip to local tyre fitter AM as my first option tomorrow in removing it. Thankfully I've got the Mrs car to hand for just such eventuality.:D

Thanks for your reply - I wasn't really expecting a reply being a Saturday TBH.
Much appreciated:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers Windy

Windy,
I understand... as both you and Terry have both suggested - its a git to remove!

Thanks again for your reply...honestly did not expect anything until the morning.

Cheers Tony:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To be clear I am changing the shocks but not top mount or spring... the shock was old and needed replacing - MOT failed it. So if I cant get it done locally at tyre place - out comes the grinder!:D
 

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Reading the Haynes manual and it shows two mounting bolts in the underside of the top mount and a lower bolt to be removed so unless your car is different I cannot understand where you are having the problem. Plus your first entry states it is all out and off the car!?
 

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Reading the Haynes manual and it shows two mounting bolts in the underside of the top mount and a lower bolt to be removed so unless your car is different I cannot understand where you are having the problem. Plus your first entry states it is all out and off the car!?
SOme shocks come with a bare piston and so the mounts need to be reused from the old ones...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yarp the shock is out....
Problem is separating it from the top mount:confused:

You are bang on sir... by jove its most definitely fitted with 1 bolt lower end + top mount secured with 2 bolts on the top.
But they're all out, its literally in hand... but still attached to the top mount that is my conundrum - I need to separate the shock from top mount (re-using it).
If that was not clear my apologies, and I am very much interested in suggestions.

(BTW opened up my package that should have contained 2 identical shocks, but therein lies the problem. It actually didnt... I got 2 odd ones):eek:
A quick call to supplier remedied the problem, net result I am now waiting for another window of time to press on and get this done....ho hum...

Appreciate all suggestions folks
Cheers:thumb:
 

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Appreciate all suggestions folks
Cheers:thumb:
I would suggest as you have a vice and a grinder to open the shocker as far as you can then cut it about 6-8 inches from the top mount and then grind 2 flat sides opposite each other where you have cut it so that you can get it held in the vice with a good grip.
Then you should be able to remove the nut,,6 point spanners or sockets (single hex)work better than the 12 point ones(bi-hex) if the nut is rusty and tight...

good luck :D

Terry
 

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Had the same issue while changing rear shocks a couple of weeks ago. As I was replacing them anyway I put them in a solid vice, they twisted a couple of times but eventually the nuts broke loose but remember, you will then need to tighten the nuts on new shocks to a required torque and the air gun is the only option i'm afraid. You don't want to grind the shafts of the new shocks in a vice:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
...and finally

The answer was an airgun to remove - tyre fitters nearby. Nothing....and I mean nothing would shift that and yes definitely need removing & refitting with airgun.

The moral to this tale is simply unless you have direct access or a friend with an airgun or impact drill - it ain't happening folks!:rolleyes:

I learnt my lesson... might even save some poor soul(s) the aggro I went through for something that's pretty straightforward with the right tools.:thumb:

Appreciate the guidance and support from all.
tmcd
 

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Many moons ago when I did mine ...
I never jacked it up , I just took the two bolts out from under the wheel arch with the wheel on and just worked in the gap
I just used a decent set of mole grips on the piston shaft as it was scrap anyway and removed the nut ... with a socket and power bar
Might have just been lucky as these where the original units
I was eating exhaust mounts and the exhaust was always banging
I removed the shocks to test them .. they where not that bad but I swapped them over and the noise went
I took them both off again and did a road test ... not a ride I want to repeat
New shocks cured the fault
 
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