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Hi has anyone changed rear discs and pads on a 15 plate 308 that has an electronic handbrake without a diagnostic machine. I am looking at buying the pads and discs this weekend but people and telling me I need a diagnostic tool to wind them back which I haven't got. Is this possible to do without, I have found a way to disengage the handbrake when I turn the ignition off but it's just the part about needing a computer to wind them back I am struggling with

Cheers

Ste
 

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Yup, did it about eight weeks ago for the MOT.

You don't have to use a Diagbox but that's the official way and remove any problem with the calliper accidentally engaging. Instead I released the handbrake and then turned the ignition off. I ignored the horrible warning noise and waited a few minutes for all the ECUs to close down. If you want to be ultra-safe you can disconnect the battery at that point but you will need to restart the system in a specific way when you reconnect it. I chose not to do this but once the back end was on axle stands undid the plug from the calliper.

Before that, with the brake is still on and with wheels off, slacken the countersunk screw holding the disc on (Torx socket needed) and then release the brake.

The calliper needs taking off and I first undid the cover plate (you'll need reverse Torx sockets for undoing the bolts) remove one and slacken the other, rotate it out of the way and pull the old pads out. then undo the big bolts holding the calliper on to axle. Tie the calliper up out of the way.

The disc can then be taken off after removing the countersunk screw and the new one put in its place. Tighten the screw up a little.

Then you have to push the calliper piston back. There is a special tool for this but did it by rotating the piston clockwise and pushing the piston back in steps. The special tool does the two steps as one. It is difficult to rotate the piston.

Then it's a matter reversing the process. When it's all back together operate the brake several times to take up the slack. I also pumped the footbrake a few times as well.
 

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The Diagbox doesn't wind the pistons back, it just stops the parking brake from operating. The special tool for winding the pistons back is a different thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's what I thought I didn't think you need a computer to wind them back but I got this post on Facebook saying you use it as it has the wind back function on the diagnostic tool Screenshot_20190517-094159_1558082619957.jpg
 

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Don't believe everything you read on Facebook.

Bit surprised you need to replace the discs though, how many miles?
Were they that worn?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am going to measure the disc tomoz before I buy. I am getting the screeching sound when I press on the brakes so think I pads need doing. I was just wondering if I can do it or needs to be a garage to do it.
 

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My 308 had done 36k miles and the rear discs still look like new. Pads have about 4mm left too. Minimum pad thickness is 2mm according to my local dealer.
I usually go on the ridge at the edge of the disc to measure wear. If you can't really see one then it's certainly not near the replacement stage.
Even my front discs are still good, but the pads might need to be changed soon.

Remember the front does almost all of the braking, the rear discs get very little wear by comparison.
 

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Do NOT rotate piston as Paul-R said. I have service box documentation for changing the pads, and there is a red warning NOT to rotate it if you have electric brake.
 

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Can you share that documentation? The piston has cut-outs for a pad retraction tool. In addition, when I pressed the piston in it would only go so far until I rotated it and then it would press in some more. This is exactly as I have done on other cars.
 

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Not sure how useful it would be for you, it's not in English. Here is the screen shot of that part, you can use google translate.



Warning is actually in blue. The second one. If you do not believe me, you can always purchase documentation on service box for 24 hours and see for yourself.

Rough translation: During pushing do not rotate the piston for the rear break.
 

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Not sure how useful it would be for you, it's not in English. Here is the screen shot of that part, you can use google translate.



Warning is actually in blue. The second one. If you do not believe me, you can always purchase documentation on service box for 24 hours and see for yourself.

Rough translation: During pushing do not rotate the piston for the rear break.
1. Avoid banging caliper actuator
2. While pushing, do not rotate caliper actuator's piston

Push the actuator caliper's piston using retraction tool for pistons.

Something like that.
 
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