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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if it is possible to fit a new sensor to the nearside rear without having to drop the tank.
Maybe tying a bit of string to the old cable and pulling it through attaching new and pulling back again.

I dont want to have to go buy another jack, axle stands, and drop the tank if I can avoid it.
 

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Depends, if you want to do it properly and replace the whole part, then no. But if you are willing to fiddle a bit, then yes, simple:

-cut the wires in different lengths, so that when they cannot touch eachother
-put on some small diameter shrink wrap tubing on both wires and larger diameter on both sides of the cables
-solder the wires together
-pull up the shrink wrap tubes onto wires, heat them up to seal them
-pull up one of the larger tube wraps over the whole area where wires are joint and heat it up to seal
-do the same with remaining longer part of shrink wrap tube to ensure good seal
 

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i drew a small diagram so you can exactly know what i meant. :) as a sidenote, make sure you put on the shrink wrap tubes before you solder the wires together. and another very important thing to consider is that wires colors might be messed up, so even if you connect red to red, black to black sensor will end up being connected in reverse, so test the wires first to make sure it is what it appears to be.

that happened to me, i connected red to red and in the end the abs sensor warning stayed, so i had to cut the cable again to reverse the wirese. to test the polarity, just get multimeter and set it to measure ohms, it will measure either 3.5 or 5.5 megaohms depending on polarity.
 

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All that needs to be done is.

1. Remove the two 13mm bolts holding up the tank, they are located front and back of the tank.

2. On the right there is a 16mm stud, loosen off a couple of threads.

3. Next fit a socket or similar between the back tank strap and the back tank strap 13mm stud mounting and the chassis to keep the tank down enough so you can remove the sensor.

4. Just pull it out after disconnecting it.

5. Max a twenty minute job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Think I'll be going with the cut n solder method, don't really want to be laying under the car messing with the tank, when I dont have any axle stands and only a scissor jack and a few bricks.
 
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Think I'll be going with the cut n solder method, don't really want to be laying under the car messing with the tank, when I dont have any axle stands and only a scissor jack and a few bricks.
Cut and solder? Don't do it. Don't listen to anyone who tells you that. Firstly you're destroying a good sensor and then you're messing with something that can save your life.
As they say, its up to you.
 

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david, with all due respect, butt soldering when done properly is as good and safe as any other connection method. if you will, many experienced repairman will tell you that it is even better than the wire nuts or barrel crimps, and yet there is at least a milion crimped wires on 407.

only bad thing about it that i ever heard was that it just takes too damn long to make, compared to other connecting methods. it cannot be vibrated apart, it wont get pulled apart, it wont short if protected properly.

and even if its a shoddy work and does go apart, only thing that will happen is you would end up in same situation as if your abs sensor failed, so yeah, you will know something happened and that you should look into it. just my 2c.
 

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david, with all due respect, butt soldering when done properly is as good and safe as any other connection method. if you will, many experienced repairman will tell you that it is even better than the wire nuts or barrel crimps, and yet there is at least a milion crimped wires on 407.

only bad thing about it that i ever heard was that it just takes too damn long to make, compared to other connecting methods. it cannot be vibrated apart, it wont get pulled apart, it wont short if protected properly.

and even if its a shoddy work and does go apart, only thing that will happen is you would end up in same situation as if your abs sensor failed, so yeah, you will know something happened and that you should look into it. just my 2c.
BUT it seems like alot of work compared with, undo a couple of bolts and unclip from under the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I could do it right, but only if someone want to lend me axle stands and a couple of trolly jacks.
The cost of these I and the sensor and I might as well take it down to the main stealer to get it done :eek:

But as in a bit of soldering, I'm a dab hand with a soldering iron. I've spent many an afternoon soldering broken laptop circuit boards, hard drives ect to get vital information off them as a data recovery specialist in my spare time.

Personally I would rather butt solder then put some crimp connecters on or do an unsafe job and get under the car without the correct equipment. :thumb:
 

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Well I could do it right, but only if someone want to lend me axle stands and a couple of trolly jacks.
The cost of these I and the sensor and I might as well take it down to the main stealer to get it done :eek:

But as in a bit of soldering, I'm a dab hand with a soldering iron. I've spent many an afternoon soldering broken laptop circuit boards, hard drives ect to get vital information off them as a data recovery specialist in my spare time.

Personally I would rather butt solder then put some crimp connecters on or do an unsafe job and get under the car without the correct equipment. :thumb:
BUT if you can get under it comfortably enough to solder why cant you undo the bolts and feed the wire through.......thats the easy bit, the harder bit is getting the sensor out/back in.


How long do you think the soldering etc will take ???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can get under enough to solder as I can lift 1 side with the crappy jack I have, put under a few mono block bricks in case of a problem remove wheel & disc etc to get the sensor out at the same time.

The soldering would take me about 10mins max once the iron is hot enough.

Another option I've thought about is deconstructing the plug, then pulling it through and putting the plug back together, but then I've not looked at the plug yet.

All might be solved tomorrow though, I've got a neighbour just moved in over the road who does crash repairs.

Think I might be paying his garage a visit when I finish work, his not got a ramp but his mate next door has :D

Great what you can find out when your dumping your wheelie bin in the street. :thumb:

I need to get under it anyway got a knocking from the front right :confused:
It's not the ball joints had both done just over a month ago.
 

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Find a carpark with a wall and reverse backend over the edge so you can get at the tank.
Would that work? Isnt the tank located between the axles?

BUT if you can get under it comfortably enough to solder why cant you undo the bolts and feed the wire through.
The thing is, i didnt, i did all of it by just taking my wheel off. Im not saying this is ideal solution, in fact i dont like it. And would have prefered to have my sensor in one piece, but for me dropping the tank was simply out of question for those exact reasons mentioned above. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
All sorted.

Well it will be on Tuesday, took it into me neighbours body shop after work.
Now it's turned into a nightmare with a happy ending which really deserves a new thread.

About a month ago I had both ball joints done as I demolished one on a pot hole n thought might as well do them both anyway. Cost me £300 and that was the end of it.

Now after it going into today we took round to his mates and put it on the ramp. They missed the broken spring :eek: that would be the knocking then.
Wheel bearing is also knackered so that needs doing too.

Anyway after a long drawn out argument over missing something that should of been checked and the cost etc and a bolt missing holding the brake pipe on that should of been done too.
It came down to them making the errors n I wanted a solution.
They started at £400 and the ABS sensor for free I decided to pull my car out as they wouldn't budge.
They got a bloke from another garage round and I got him down to £180 all in.
Wheel bearing Pug parts £80
Spring £40
ABS free
£60 labour.

I nearly ripped his arm off at that price :D
Mrs aint happy but when are they.

Next step is to claim off the council for the pot hole damage. :nod:
 

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but for me dropping the tank was simply out of question for those exact reasons mentioned above. :)
you dont ACTUALLY drop the tank as such just loosen the nuts/bolts and LOWER it a little, be out of there a lot faster than soldering.
 
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