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This is my first post on here and I hope it's in the right section.
I needed a bigger car for my family needs, so I decided to buy a really nice 407 Sw (or so I thought) 2.0 HDi SE ... all was well for the first 24 hours of my ownership apart from a very blocked pollen filter stopping the fans from emitting air into the cabin and we were very happy with it overall (better than a saxo at any rate)!

Then in the true fashion of "just my luck" the problems started to arise, Firstly we noticed that the heaters had an obvious fault as we get ice cold air con out of the passenger vents and all of the heat from the drivers vents... I am told heater box is dead as dual zone climate and something to do with paddles £700 - £1000 to fix :eek: I think that can stay like that for a while as winter is coming and I haven't that kind of cash to throw at it!

Then shortly after we noticed the above issue the real fun started .... Random cutting out just like someone turned off the diesel feed to the engine (not nice while travelling on the M1 in roadworks) accompanied by a "Warning Low Oil pressure" on the dash in red. Turned out it was the crank position sensor in the end and was a 10 minute fix as it's on the pulley end on my engine!

And to top it off in true French car style, I booked the car in for a full service and front brake discs and pads as, although it had a good full service record to date, the oil looks too thick and very black and I don't trust it, plus the front discs are badly warped. The labour for the work is like £85 or there abouts .... But when I filled the tank this evening it now seems that the fuel gauge hates me too. I know the tank is full as I could see diesel in the filler neck, But the fuel gauge is telling me that I'm 1/8th of a tank under full :mad: This didn't happen the first time I filled it up and I always go from as close to 1/4 tank as I can to full ... Because FAP lol

The car overall is in really nice condition, especially as it has covered 210k in it's very short 6.5 years of life. Also it has full service history up to present date with all but the last 3 stamps being main dealer! Only thing is I am a little worried that I may have brought trouble unknowingly and was blinded by how good the car looks condition wise (it even still smells new inside).

I think I am taking the right approach by quickly repairing any faults as I find them, like the badly warped front discs, bad looking oil and replacing all filters etc ... but is there anything else I need to watch out for with the HDi 136 (6 speed manual) that may be lurking in there??

I'm hoping I get a mass of people telling me "it'll be fine" and not "your doomed, sell the damn thing" lol
 
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The heater flaps can be repaired (full dash out job) for roughly £250. There's two places we know of that do it one here in Doncaster and another in Swansea.

The fuel gauge is common and will usually right itself at next fill up, did you leave ignition on when filling?

The 2.0hdi suffers hesitation and blanking the egr cures it.
 

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Hi & welcome

It'll be fine; you're among friends (fellow sufferers).
Spend a bit of time reading around on here and you should get a feel for common problems and what to watch and listen out for.

Not a great start, but at 210k (58 plate?) if you've got a good clutch and flywheel and a recent cambelt and water pump then you've definitely got a bargain -- even if it doesn't feel like it.

I'd say an oil change and set of filters is par for the course.

The true budget fix for the dual zone climate control -- if you have the guts for it -- is to cut into the unit, glue the bust shaft, then glue the box back up. IIRC there's a howto on 407owners.com.

Discs and pads are consumables so that's kinda tough :(

Blanking the EGR will definitely give you a sharper throttle response.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the prompt replies there guys, The timing belt was done at 173k so I believe that will want doing at 230k ?? ... clutch and flywheel are excellent, which is a bonus but I have no idea whether it's been converted or not from the dual mass!
She went in for the service yesterday morning and the guy I use (a porsche specialist) said that the car is in excellent shape and I have nothing to worry about. However I do seem to be having problems with a slight stutter, usually at lower revs in second gear and it keeps giving the fault "Fuel pump relay stuck open circuit (intermittent)" I have had this cleared 3 times now and keeps coming back! Went to pug dealer and asked them, But they tell me that this car doesn't have a pump relay fitted ... so after nagging the parts man for 20 minutes he tells me they are common for pressure regulators (will a failing regulator cause this fault?) I think Pug know they are never touching my car now or in the future lol
And lastly the car was giving an overboost fault which has never happened before. There doesn't seem to be any loss of power or anything, other than a split hose? maybe the car just likes giving me random things to try and find that don't really exist (it is french after all)
 

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Right, another day, another problem!
This one is very minor I suppose but not sure what it is .... noticed that the inner 2 inches of the front drivers tyre is wearing badly. The car doesn't pull left or right, doesn't knock or bang over bumps and drives generally spot on! Someone suggested lower swivel joint ??? Is that the lower ball joint
 

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Right, another day, another problem!
This one is very minor I suppose but not sure what it is .... noticed that the inner 2 inches of the front drivers tyre is wearing badly. The car doesn't pull left or right, doesn't knock or bang over bumps and drives generally spot on! Someone suggested lower swivel joint ??? Is that the lower ball joint

Yes this is both the same thing but with different names.
I can only assume it might have been changed? and the tyre is like that from previous repair.
Have your tracking checked as well.
 

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I can only assume it might have been changed? and the tyre is like that from previous repair.
Have your tracking checked as well.
I was thinking about dropping the rear tyres onto the front axle to see better if any wear is occurring over the course of a week or so. Would this be a wise idea? as I don't want to upset something on the rear by putting a slightly worn tyre on that axle ... if that makes any sense, the worn tyre is still perfectly road legal and does have visible tread on the worn section. Just not sure if it would cause an issue putting it on the rear.

Also would a blocked DPF make the car cut out and give a "depollution system fault" warning at very first start of the day? I did get the crank sensor changed just before the service was done and that seemed to totally cure the problem until yesterday night ... The car now only ever cuts out if idling with a stone cold engine, only cuts out once and gives the above warning then she is fine for the rest of the day (897 miles in 9 days and counting so can't be all that bad)! Long term plan is to blank the EGR and have the car mapped including removal of the DPF system after they run a regeneration to stop this ever being a problem again, not sure if it maps out the pat tank also though?
 

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I was thinking about dropping the rear tyres onto the front axle to see better if any wear is occurring over the course of a week or so. Would this be a wise idea? as I don't want to upset something on the rear by putting a slightly worn tyre on that axle ... if that makes any sense, the worn tyre is still perfectly road legal and does have visible tread on the worn section. Just not sure if it would cause an issue putting it on the rear.

Also would a blocked DPF make the car cut out and give a "depollution system fault" warning at very first start of the day? I did get the crank sensor changed just before the service was done and that seemed to totally cure the problem until yesterday night ... The car now only ever cuts out if idling with a stone cold engine, only cuts out once and gives the above warning then she is fine for the rest of the day (897 miles in 9 days and counting so can't be all that bad)! Long term plan is to blank the EGR and have the car mapped including removal of the DPF system after they run a regeneration to stop this ever being a problem again, not sure if it maps out the pat tank also though?

I do not think the swapping of the tyres will make a difference a week will not be enough to see if the tyres will wear.
Most of the garages do a free check on tracking and while up there can ask them to check the lower ball joints. That will be easier.

For the antipolution warning best is to plug a Diagbox/PP2000 and have the codes read, then you will know exactly what is going wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
O.k that's a plan then ... taking it in on Monday next week to get the tracking and ball joints checked!
In sad news, some little *(insert curse word here)* has decided it would be funny to hit the passenger side of my windscreen with something. This resulted in a call to the insurance who promptly told me "I'm sorry sir, you don't appear to have glass cover" !WTF!
Price of new screen is going to be a painful £225, only thing is, I don't know whether it should have a green screen or a purple? one. All of the door glass is green and it looks like the front screen has a weird finish on it ... what's the difference with the 2 colour options??
 

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I think the purple finish is the normal the car should have, the typical green is the cheap option.
The purple finish is the one with the anti-glare built in and also has extra UV protection in it.

I think it is called athermic 'heat reflective' glass

The Citroen C5 we have the previous owner had an RAC Windscreen replacement and sure enough ... they have fitted in a plain windscreen not a purple shaded one like the original that was on the car (it should have been like to like really).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
interesting information, thanks for that .... I have a price now for a replacement of £195 all inclusive, which is cheap
 

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any more news on 407

I have just bought a 407 hdi sw Gt , 08 plate 60000 m , all good for 1st week then cutting out randomly ( very dangerous ) saying low oil level and depollution fault , done this 3 times and engine management light stays on for a while then off at next restart.
was going to get fuel filter changed, codes read, and crank position sensor changed , any other ideas pse, i am in york if anyone has the gizzmo for reading codes ?
 
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