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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

For a while now my Peugeot 307 diesel has been struggling with its acceleration especially on steep hills. The anti pollution fault comes on when driving it hard on the motorway. I invested in a Lexia 3 and PP2000 and found the following codes:
F000 ECU not communicating on the CAN
F062 No communication with audio ECU

P1035 Pre heating relay circuit
P0402 Air circuit air flow lower than recommended local


I believe the first two can be forgotten about as I think the F000 code is because I bought a cheaper Lexia 3 and the second code is from swapping the radio.

The third is related to the glow plugs or relay and I think the fourth is related to the ERG or the vacuum solenoid from the research I've done.

Can anyone point me in a direction to tackle first? I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to issues like this but I'm keen to learn.

Thanks in advance!
 

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pretty sure the air flow fault can be triggered by faulty maf sensor,which will also give poor power on hills etc,not sure if it works on your car but try unplugging maf and see if power returns, (might trigger a few extra faults though),,
second air flow fault that can cause power loss is at the turbo, caused by vacuum control solonoid to turbo going wrong, can be tested with vacuum guage quite easily if your solonoid is accessible,done it and changed it easily on 2.o hdi but no knowledge of 1.6hdi..sure others with more knowledge will be along shortly
 

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pretty sure the air flow fault can be triggered by faulty maf sensor,which will also give poor power on hills etc,not sure if it works on your car but try unplugging maf and see if power returns, (might trigger a few extra faults though),,
second air flow fault that can cause power loss is at the turbo, caused by vacuum control solonoid to turbo going wrong, can be tested with vacuum guage quite easily if your solonoid is accessible,done it and changed it easily on 2.o hdi but no knowledge of 1.6hdi..sure others with more knowledge will be along shortly
Thanks very much for the response Vincent! I have tried unplugging the MAF sensor alright and that unfortunately didn't make a difference, mabye I need to leave it unplugged longer and clear the faults before retesting. Just got PP up and running so I'll try that again!

I do think the solenoid is causing the fault too as I believe it's not causing the turbo to kick in at all and thus no boost from the car. I know what it looks like but haven't seen it yet on my 1.6. I'll have a look for it the weekend and check the wiring and pipes to make sure they're all ok.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Vacuum pipes can cause it so a vacuum test pump is a good idea. I bought a kit and am busy using it on a Honda CRV diesels EGR valve and found it sticking in the closed position on the second check with it. Off ebay and reasonably cheap too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions lads!

Bought it to a garage and they said it was the ERG causing the issue alright. I'm currently looking into replacing it myself as the replacement was very costly. I'm just wondering should I go with a branded EGR or a cheaper one off ebay? I can see there are some available for 40-50 pounds.

Also would blanking the EGR be an option too or would that just cause more issues?

Thanks in advance.
 

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You cannot blank a faulty egr as the ecu needs feedback from it and if its faulty it will still send back the wrong signals to the ecu. but once replaced you can blank it

I would be checking vacuum too and unplugging the airflow sensor not affecting it usually means the sensor is not working and the ecu is ignoring it EGR and airflow sensor are on the same circuit on the ECU so 1 faulty affects the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You cannot blank a faulty egr as the ecu needs feedback from it and if its faulty it will still send back the wrong signals to the ecu. but once replaced you can blank it

I would be checking vacuum too and unplugging the airflow sensor not affecting it usually means the sensor is not working and the ecu is ignoring it EGR and airflow sensor are on the same circuit on the ECU so 1 faulty affects the other.

Thanks for the advice guys :)

The garage told me they checked the vacuum and its definitely the ERG. Should I go for a cheap ERG or a more expensive branded one?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Take the old one off and check it on the bench. It just might need a clean!
Took it off there today and it wasnt too dirty. Gave it a clean with EGR cleaner. I then took off the electronic part and found that was very stiff and not returning to the normal position once turned. I looked at a video online and can see this is supposed to spring back into place. I'll buy a new EGR to resolve it.

Should I buy a branded one or one off ebay for 50 euro?
 

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Took it off there today and it wasnt too dirty. Gave it a clean with EGR cleaner. I then took off the electronic part and found that was very stiff and not returning to the normal position once turned. I looked at a video online and can see this is supposed to spring back into place. I'll buy a new EGR to resolve it.

Should I buy a branded one or one off ebay for 50 euro?
Can you not clean and lube the electronic bit? Mind you that will probably only be a short term solution.
 

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Took it off there today and it wasnt too dirty. Gave it a clean with EGR cleaner. I then took off the electronic part and found that was very stiff and not returning to the normal position once turned. I looked at a video online and can see this is supposed to spring back into place. I'll buy a new EGR to resolve it.

Should I buy a branded one or one off ebay for 50 euro?
Can you not clean and lube the electronic bit? Mind you that will probably only be a short term solution.
I tried but I think it's gone altogether. I opened it up and the spring inside isn't returning the part back to the original position. I've purchased a replacement online and will try get it installed this week if it comes on time. Hopefully the car is flying after that ?
 

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It's best to just blank the EGR and then delete the EGR from the ECU software.
I can completely write out the EGR so no need to fix it.

If you do decide to replace the EGR, don't use the cheap one it won't work, the ECU needs to learn the position of the new valve and they don't seem to work on the aftermarket parts, plus they won't refund it because it's 'electrical' so then you end up having to buy two.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've successfully replaced the EGR valve but acceleration is the same. Was getting a P1462 code untill I learned in the new valve and now that cleared. Would blanking the EGR be the next step or is something else causing the issue? Ive tested the care with the EGR unplugged and it didnt make a difference so I dunno if blanking it will resolve the issue. Thanks for the help in advance :)
 

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I've successfully replaced the EGR valve but acceleration is the same. Was getting a P1462 code untill I learned in the new valve and now that cleared. Would blanking the EGR be the next step or is something else causing the issue? Ive tested the care with the EGR unplugged and it didnt make a difference so I dunno if blanking it will resolve the issue. Thanks for the help in advance :)
if your not getting low boost type fault i would change the maf or if you know someone with the same car/engine 'borrow' theirs.only takes half a minute to change and a faulty one gives symptoms of loss of turbo , if you do get one on fleabay i would get the real thing,, i bought a cheap unmarked one for £29 and i continued to have problems and thought i had other faults as i had a new maf, i eventually decided to buy a siemens one with the same code that was on my original maf,it cost about £40 and was well worth it, my car was transformed, all the sudden had a car with a turbo that went from hardly able to do 30mph up steep hill to one that continued to accelerate all the way up, tortoise to hare and never had a problem with it since.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if your not getting low boost type fault i would change the maf or if you know someone with the same car/engine 'borrow' theirs.only takes half a minute to change and a faulty one gives symptoms of loss of turbo , if you do get one on fleabay i would get the real thing,, i bought a cheap unmarked one for £29 and i continued to have problems and thought i had other faults as i had a new maf, i eventually decided to buy a siemens one with the same code that was on my original maf,it cost about £40 and was well worth it, my car was transformed, all the sudden had a car with a turbo that went from hardly able to do 30mph up steep hill to one that continued to accelerate all the way up, tortoise to hare and never had a problem with it since.
Thanks a million for the help Vincent, I checked the MAF sensor and it wasnt plugged in 100%. I checked the connector and it looks a small bit damaged but the connections look ok. When I plugged it in correctly I got the following errors:
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal (flowmeter)
P0104 Flowmeter signal

I will buy a new MAF sensor and hopfully that will resolve the issue otherwise it may look like the connector is causing the issue and may have to be replaced. I will check that with a mulitmeter if needed.
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hopefully you will get it sorted and let us know if its fixed
Tried spraying the sensor today with a can of electrical component cleaner as I got a cheap can of it for 5 euro but it failed to clear the faults. Looking at the connector it looks very damaged with the 1 and 4 pins looking quite bare. Seen here:
https://image.ibb.co/mTiyrV/IMG-20181028-131333.jpg

Would anyone know if it should be like this? I cant seem to find a picture of the same connector for reference and I'm wondering if its the connector rather than the MAF sensor thats faulty.
 
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