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hi folks,ive been a member for years but this is my first post.As title suggeests ive these 2 faults coming up. 2005 2.0 hdi and symptoms are- car cuts out coming upto a junction then engine light comes on followed by "dpf" fault and sometimes "esp" i think it says-if this appears car is also in limp mode. I can pull key out and restart and 99% of the time its ok but next junction will do the same. Ive also noticed a drop in mpg?? I had the car up with Martin (betty swollocks) this morning and hes ruled out a dpf probem and the only codes to come up are P0193 and P1164 both are fuel pressure signal faults. Car runs and pulls fine apart from this-so any ideas or is it just the fuel pressure sensor and if so where is it? cheers for any help. oh car has 154k on her and this is my first issue with it. ps- sorry for the long post.
 

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If is a 110 check link harness from fuel rail pressure sensor which drops down at rear of starter motor, cable goes brittle and insulation falls off can give miss fire and cut out faults
 

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Po193 p1164 resolved

I've had both these faults recently after I removed the camshaft housing. PO193 is 'fuel pressure sensor high input' and surprisingly does not relate to fuel pressure as such. The electronics in the ECU is designed such that if a lead is disconnected there is a 'pull up' voltage and the disconnected input defaults all the way up to 5V. This is a 'tell' to the ECU that it's a disconnected lead. You can prove this to yourself (if you're really interested) by disconnecting more conveniently located sensors and reading similar 'high input' fault code. A typical sensor should usually give a reading strictly between 0.5V and 4.5V depending on the pressure / temperature etc of what it's reading so 0V and 5V should never occur even at minimum/maximum pressures. And since the electronics is set up as I've mentioned 5V is typical consequence of a disconnected sensor (or broken wire / faulty connector etc) i.e. a sensor problem rather than an actual problem. Of course it could be a defective sensor too with an internal problem.

The consequence for me were 'limp home mode' and the car ran like a bag of spanners. So bad I doubted initially it could merely be a sensor problem and was sure there was a real problem with the fuel. It was only after I replaced the sensor - no improvement - connected the old sensor which was in my hand to the connector that a chance 'wiggle' of the wire suddenly brought the sensor voltage down from 5V to 0.5V I was able to diagnose the faulty pin on the connector. The car then ran sweet as a nut. I was either damn unlucky or more likely disturbed it when fitting the new cam housing :nono:

During all this P1164 came up once and this without stating the obvious is very different. The sensor output IS within range of 0.5v and 4.5v but the ECU is not happy with the readings it's getting. My understanding is this is more likely to be a faulty sensor or if you're unlucky an actual fueling problem. In my case it was just a transient fault maybe with all the wiggling.

Hope this information is useful to someone - the problem caused me a lot of head scratching and I found much of the information on the internet a bit confused and some of it plain wrong for this vehicle. I used a Voltmeter and physically measured the signal line when disconnected 5V, defective 5V and repaired 0.5V faultcode cleared.
 

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I've had both these faults recently after I removed the camshaft housing. PO193 is 'fuel pressure sensor high input' and surprisingly does not relate to fuel pressure as such. The electronics in the ECU is designed such that if a lead is disconnected there is a 'pull up' voltage and the disconnected input defaults all the way up to 5V. This is a 'tell' to the ECU that it's a disconnected lead. You can prove this to yourself (if you're really interested) by disconnecting more conveniently located sensors and reading similar 'high input' fault code. A typical sensor should usually give a reading strictly between 0.5V and 4.5V depending on the pressure / temperature etc of what it's reading so 0V and 5V should never occur even at minimum/maximum pressures. And since the electronics is set up as I've mentioned 5V is typical consequence of a disconnected sensor (or broken wire / faulty connector etc) i.e. a sensor problem rather than an actual problem. Of course it could be a defective sensor too with an internal problem.

The consequence for me were 'limp home mode' and the car ran like a bag of spanners. So bad I doubted initially it could merely be a sensor problem and was sure there was a real problem with the fuel. It was only after I replaced the sensor - no improvement - connected the old sensor which was in my hand to the connector a chance 'wiggle' of the wire suddenly brought the sensor voltage down from 5V to 0.5V I was able to diagnose the faulty pin on the connector. The car then ran sweet as a nut.

During all this P1164 came up once, and this without stating the obvious is very different. The sensor output IS within range of 0.5v and 4.5v but the ECU is not happy with the readings it's getting. My understanding is this is more likely to be a faulty sensor or if you're unlucky an actual fueling problem. In my case it was just a transient fault maybe with all the wiggling.

Hope this information is useful to someone - the problem caused me a lot of head scratching and I found much of the information on the internet a bit confused and some of it plain wrong for this vehicle. I used a Voltmeter and physically measured the signal line when disconnected 5V, defective 5V and repaired 0.5V faultcode cleared.
 
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