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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

I am trying to find out if there are any one way non return valves in the fuel filter.

I have a 307 HDI 2.0 (2001) Diesel.

She will start for 1 second and die out. There seems to be no presure in the system. The funny thing is when I turn the key on I can hear the lift pump running but I can also hear something like a leak ... but there is zero leaks.

Check and there is fuel from the lift pump running in to the filter, going all the way to the injectors. (All checked)
Check all the connectors (no leaks or sprays)
Check all the pips and all OK
Check all injectors and OK

I traced the sound what sounds like a leak to the return pipe going back to the tank? So now I suspect the filer housing may have a one way check valve what has failed.


So can anyone tell me what the green fitting on the filter is and does?
There are three connetors and heating
 

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You cant check the fuel all the way to injectors as if you open the unions the ecu will stop the flow !!

The green plug which i think you are talking about is the fuel temperature sensor and the engine will run even with it unplugged

When you try to start engine turn key off leave key in ignition open door does car beep ??
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hi reliable406, thanks for the reply.

I disconnected the unions at the injector and check with a pipe and there was diesel comming out when you switch the key on, so the lift pump is pumping all the way to the injectors. (Or do you think the solinoid in the HP pump should have stopped it or the control valve in the HP pump?)

Hi yes she beeps when you leave the key in the car so the ECU is seeing the key.

Sorry my mistake not the green temp sensor but the flow back pipe with the green connector bit. I was wondering with there is a one way valve in the filter? My thinking is that when it primes its flowing back past the one way valave...... or is there nothing there?

BTW. does anyone know what the purpose if of the red plug going on return pipes. I see it has 3 pipes connected to it. One going to the fuel tank, one to the bleed off and one to the filter?

i.ytimg.com/vi/wa3OeeKmSOU/maxresdefault.jpg

Thanks in advance
 

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The fuel system recirculates fuel the high pressure pump only takes what it needs to pressurise the rail most of the fuel actually goes back to the tank !

What you are hearing is normal you need to check live data readings to see fuel pressure in rail and cranking speed also cam and crank sync your problem is more likely electrical
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am still suspicious of the return pipe on the filter. Is seems you can blow and suck on it. The housing looks like it has something pressed in there. Like it could be a ball and spring. When I look in the fitting I can see what looks like a spring. But no sign of a ball. I read somewhere some said there is a built in check valve in the housing. Can anyone confirm?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Was reading this and on the 407 they are saying there is a non return valve on the fuel filter housing? But is there one on the 307 housing?

peugeotcentral.co.uk/ftopic-5302.html

I am wondering if there is a ball and spring check valve in there, if it could have worn down and finaly made its way to the feul tank?
If it did would that mean it went back into the lift pump? Would it cause damage?
Is this the reason so many peugoet finaly have problems with lift pumps and also could it be the reason so many peugeots suffer starting issues becuase the plastic ball over time grinds down? Sending particles back in the tank, does it go back in the tank or strait to the Lift pump? Is there a filter in the tank before the lift pump.

This makes me wonder if there is no filter on the return (if it goes directly to the lift pump.) it could be more trouble.

Would it not be better to put a non return valve in line and a filter on the retune pipes? would something like this work? Or will the pressure on the return pipe knock it off?

ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Aluminium-Fuel-Hose-Non-Return-Check-Valve-One-Way-Petrol-Diesel-Chrome-New-/291605545474?hash=item43e50b8202:g:1QIAAOSwo6lWNw21

Is there a way I can test the existing filter, example block it off at the filter and try and start.. Thus cancel out the entire feed back in the filter. What would happen?

UPDATE: there is a flat filter in the bottom of the lift pump and all nice and clean, no sign of any ball. Likley floating in the bottom of the tank. lol
 

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As i said already you need to see live data readings to see the fuel pressure in the rail as there is very little to actually stop the engine firing i doubt very much you are in the correct area.

Only issue we ever see with filter housings are cracks and leaks
 

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Is the locking ring tight on the filter? They're usually rock solid but on my last 307 it would work loose and I'd have exactly the same problem as you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi

Going to have someone over on Sat with diag machine.

I placed a inline check valve in the leak off on the fuel filter.
Also check the lid and tightened it a little more.

But still same result. Sadly will have to wait .

Thanks for all the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello. So while I am waiting for a diag. I decided to check everything again. The car could be 180 degrees out. The lobes on the 1 piston are just rocking while no 4 is free. All pins are in and piston is tdc. No 1 piston on the right closest to the flywheel. I had the cam sprocket off and key is still there.

Is it possible the OP pressed in Part of the sprocket has moved? I see numbers 1 on it and 3 dots but they are on the opposite side of the timing pin hole a full 180 degrees away.
Rockers seem fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry just to add. When I got the car they told me they change form a duel mass flywheel to a single mass. Is it possible to put these in wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
You keep adding more info !!

Have you EVER had this car running properly ?
Lol once upon a time it did, untill it went for a cambelt and few other bits at a machanic, had to take tow it away from them after 3 months of non stop problems.
Doing it myself now.

So the main question now is, when you pin the timing, is piston No1 TDC? I will have the crank pully off tomorrow, I know there is some tipex marks there from before the belt change. Piston one is towards the flywheel right.

Sorry to keep adding, just trying to get the old thing back on the road and fault finding bit by bit as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
So just to be clear this car used to run it went for a cambelt swap and has not run since is this accurate ?
It ran for about 10miles then had to be towed,(Not much at all) then had diag done and was said it was injector, when they started swaing to ECU i took over. Before this it was tones of other things replaced. When I got the car back found a broken rocker and two teeth out and tentioner failed as the belt was loose or tightened clockwise, i know the tentioner must be tightened anticlockwise with an large keyway to past 6-oclock and then the bolt tightened. (The guy changed the belt with paint marks only)Since then replaced the rocker, starter motor as the starter came back and was smoking, set the timing. Everything looks good. Perhaps I have been side tracked with that injector and fuel diag leading me to the check-valve on the filter. (Maybe its more of a timing problem) I am starting to get the feeling this car has been through many hands (me included, just dont have anymore money to keep fixing a car we bearly have ridden). lol I also found the tow link busted off in the chassi when it came back.

I hope the valves are ok, the fact it does start give me hope (runs then dies like there is no feul). lol who knows what else they played with. I will check the painted timing marks tomorrow and then we will know if the people who changed the flywheel were ok too or not. I have tried that 22mm bolt before and last time it did not budge. Will give it a go again as the marking in paint are on the crankshaft sprocket. (I will use a bar to get more levrage on the 22mm)

I found a picture of a cam shaft sprocket like mine and its the same, So the 1 marking is opposite the timing pin. What really baffles me is that the lobes on the shaft at no1 piston are rocking and the lobes on no 4 toward the timing belt are open so the valves are fully closed on No4 ... I just dont get that, its mean to be the compression stroke, but why is it on No 4. Hence is the flywheel out, or woodruff key shear down the crankshaft sproket? guess it all comes down too getting that 22mm off and seeing how it was setup before. But could it be the piston should be halfway not tdc?

BTW that filter has a non return check valve. it seems to throw out the air back in the tank if there is any in the filter housing. I tried the inline one and seems to take longer to start if flow is going in the filter opose to flowing out.
 
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