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Peugeot Planet PP2000 question.

724 Views 32 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Ian M Davis
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Hello everybody,





My Peugeot 206 CC 2.0 won’t start anymore in the morning after a stormy night. I never had any start problems before faults or problems before. I called road service for it, and they came to check. After 1 hour checking my car by this road service and now stucked in economy mode he told me.. its almost sure it’s the Motor ECU and he left. Today I started to try to diagnose the car myself and hooked up the PP2000. After reading out the car it shows for sure no communication with the Engine ECU (see picture 1). But I want to start at the beginning to excluding things out, so I start at the (BSI) and noticed that there is also NO key synchronized as shown in the second picture (see picture 2).

Also my car doesn’t make beeping sounds anymore while the key is in the contact when opening the door.

My questions on this:

1 is it normal that PP2000 shows the list of 5 keys with No synchronized?

2 Is it normal that my car doesn’t make pings anymore when the key is in its contact and I open the door because its in ecomode?

I want to know this because before I continue to the Engine ECU what shows also as locked.

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I have checked the fuses what doesn’t seem problems there. I will start make diagnoses wit
h the voltmeter on the wires to the ECU according to the diagrams I pulled from the internet (see picture), and see if there is no faulty wires. I also heard about people having problems with the loom and breaking points in a lower position of the loom behind the engine block on the bottom part. I’m not sure if that counts for me, because my ECU is on the right side of the car and I think it has different route than the normal 206 loom. But I wanted to make sure if the key doesn’t lock the ECU and doesn’t give readings to the PP2000.

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Is the storm significant? Could it be lightning close by, affecting the electronics? Check earth points, wiring connectors, battery charge and reconnect procedure etc. What works and what doesn't?
After the storm at night, when I tried to start it in the morning and before the car went into eco mode.. there was a warning in the display (electronic theft protection). After this there was no start anymore and showed the above outcome in PP2000. The storm had no lightning.. it was more a blizzard of rain and a lot of wind. Before i had never a problem with rain or start/electronic problems. (This happened some months back and the car is all dry now (24 degrees outside)).
After some volt measurement’s today on the wires (plugs) to the Motor ECU I came to the conclusion that all the ground wires towards the ECU are OK…. I found out that there are two wires 12 volt supose to go towards the motor ECU plugs.

12 Volt. From control unit power supply relay : to ECU connector A, pin A4.
12 Volt. From car batterie :to ECU connector C, pin B4.

When the ignition key is turned, there comes no 12 volts from the control unit power supply relay to the ECU.
Can this be the problem for not powering up the ECU?
Today I did a further inspection on shorts and wires on my car, I figured that on two fuses who are located on the BSI have shorts. Its fuse 20 and 21 as shown on the picture. The two fuses are responsible for brake lights. I’m not sure is this fault comes from the BSI itself or there is a short somewhere down the trail. Maybe this is the cause that the BSI is malfunctioning now, and doesn’t wakeup the engine ECU (its kinds strange, because in PP2000 the BSI didn’t gave any faults). I have a Haynes manual, but it doesn’t show much of wire diagrams to and around the BSI. Its hard now to figure out what wire are coming and going from the BSI to the brake lights. Does anybody know a link are reference where I see the BSI diagrams and connectors etc.??
Maybe a thing to know... when unpluged the fuses, the car still didnt start.

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When you say the you have a short circuit at the fuses do you mean they are both blown? I had a look at the wiring diagrams for the 206 MUX and it is a bit surprising both brake light fuses are blown. They are separate circuits. The most likely way this would happen is if the cable to the back of the car was damaged. Are there any problems with the tail lights. I doubt this is related to your ECU problem.

I have attached two diagrams for your car. The first is the synopsis for the injection. The second shows the connection between the engine fuse box and the ECU. When you turn the ignition on the engine ECU closes a relay (master relay) in the Engine fuse box. This relay then provides the main power supply to the ECU. I have known this relay to fail and if that happens it quite likely that PP2000 will not be able to communicate with the ECU.

You need to do some voltage measurement at the engine fuse box. You need to find the black 16 pin plug and push the red probe in the back of pin 13 and the black probe needs to touch an unpainted part of the car body. When the ignition is OFF you should read 12V and when the ignition is ON you should read 0V. It would be worth repeating the test at pin 8. It should be 0V with the ignition OFF and 12V with the ignition ON.

A couple of things from you diagnostic results:
(i) The car can have up to 5 keys. The synchronisation tell you the remote buttons have been pressed on one of the five key recently. No for all five is normal.
(ii) Do you still have a Peugeot radio?

One final question does the car crank? The starter motor is not connected to the ECU so the car should still crank.
Hello Ian,

Thanks for looking with me to this problem.

Right now.. I unplugged the wires from the BSI and looked for physical burns or damage on it.( it doesn’t seem like it got real damaged. I didn’t looked inside. Monday I will hook it back in the car again and start continue to the wires and voltages.

The fuses of the brakes 21 and 20 were not blown, I was just measuring the voltage on them.. and it seemed they were grounded when measuring them, while the other fusses one the board had voltage on them. I think it was my misinterpretation of the relay.. I think it will show voltage when I push the break switch of course..(my fault of interpretation) I think for those two fuses.

As answering your questions.. 1* yes.. the car cranks around and for the rest I cant see any wrongs on the car… 2* The original radio I took out on the moment I bought the car years back to replace it with a aftermarket radio (that’s why PP2000 doesnt shows the radio).

On Monday I’m going to get on with the car and hook the BSI back into the car and start measuring more wires as you suggested on the fuse box (now I have a diagram.. thanks for that!). Today I got also a hand on the software Autodata 3.45, but again this software only shows the numbers on the wires as plugs and not the wires as colors so. In this way I have to start first every time at the base to figure out what goes where, before excluding (but I have the time)..

Also what I noticed.. is when the car was starting before this all happened.. On switching the contact to on, I could always hear the fuel pump make a bzzzzz sound to pump the fuel to the engine. It must be the ECU what is not working now, that it doesn’t give the command to the pump now. (anyway.. its just a little detail).

I will start continue the search Monday again.. and take your points with it.

Greetings
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One other question. I don't see ABS brakes listed in the PP2000 diagnostics so I guess your car doesn't have ABS. Is that correct?
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Thats kinda strange yes.. It has ABS.



I quess here the problems starts...
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Contact on... PIN 1, 14, 20 have 12 volts. Pin 26 has 22 volt. (pictures).

I assume the pins as the diagram references the cavity numbers of the blue plug!?






Im not sure about PIN 26 why the 22 volts is there. PIN 13 is a empty pin.
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I have attached two diagrams for your car. The first is the synopsis for the injection. The second shows the connection between the engine fuse box and the ECU. When you turn the ignition on the engine ECU closes a relay (master relay) in the Engine fuse box. This relay then provides the main power supply to the ECU. I have known this relay to fail and if that happens it quite likely that PP2000 will not be able to communicate with the ECU.

You need to do some voltage measurement at the engine fuse box. You need to find the black 16 pin plug and push the red probe in the back of pin 13 and the black probe needs to touch an unpainted part of the car body. When the ignition is OFF you should read 12V and when the ignition is ON you should read 0V. It would be worth repeating the test at pin 8. It should be 0V with the ignition OFF and 12V with the ignition ON.
PIN 13 has a constant 12 volt, no matter if i switch the key on or off.
PIN 8 doesn’t get any voltage at all, no matter if I switch the key on or off.



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In case you haven't realised the voltage you were checking at pin 8 of the black plug is one of the ECU connections you mentioned in #3. It connects to pin A4 of ECU connector 32V NR (32 pin black plug your plug C). I have asked you to check the other 12V connection to the ECU in Next Step below.
I have todo this agin... Im almost sure I measured 12 volts on (48V MR) PIN: B4. But ill check again.
So as I understands...The 32V NR (plug C) Pin A4 is returning 12 volts to PIN 8 on the 16N NR.. what goes to the relay R1 on teh BM34?
This means the ECU is toast?


ABS
Most of the ABS measurements makes sense except Pin 26 is the earth connection. It should read 0V. It connects to a stud/bolt (MC10) near the front left headlight.
Pin 13 is not used.

We will need to check the front right sensor at some stage. You can do this by measuring the resistance (Ω Ohms scale) between each pair of pins at the blue plug. I would check all four pairs.
The sensor connections are:
Front right sensor Pin 5 and 6
Rear right sensor Pin 11 and 12
Front Left sensor pins 8 and 9
Rear left sensor pins 3 and 2
Front right sensor Pin 5 and 6------- No reading
Rear right sensor Pin 11 and 12------9.77 Ω
Front Left sensor pins 8 and 9-------10.15 Ω
Rear left sensor pins 3 and 2---------10.21 Ω

Next Step
Find the green 16 pin connector on the fuse box and measure the voltage at pin 12 with the ignition ON. If there is no voltage check fuse 4.
Ignition ON reads 12 Volt.

Check earth point MC10. It is the earth point for both the ABS and engine fuse box. That 22V reading was extremely strange. I wonder if it was milliVolts but I could see mV on your meter's display. However, if both probes were making a good contact I would be very surprised if the meter read anything other than 0V. It should be the same as touching both probes together. You may need to remove the headlight to get to MC10. You should also check earth MC11 which may require removing the other headlight. I have attached location diagrams for both earth points.
You were right... It was millivolts reading :( :).
You may be right about the ECU being toast. However, ECUs are remarkably reliable. The usual failure mode is water ingress. The ECU has two earth points and the both need to make perfect contact. One is MC11 which is under the right headlight. The main earth is MM01 which bolts to the engine I have known these to break off. I have attached a location diagram.
Hello Ian,

I’m going todo a inspection on the ECU (ground and voltage on the pins again). I will also check all the ground cables on the car and cleanup the bolts surfaces.

I don’t want to buy a secondhand matching ECU/BSI set (250,- euro) before I know for sure the wires are ok and there is no short.
Another earth worth checking MC20
I think that there is a bigger problem going on. After starting cleaning up the ground cables and positions. I did ground checks. All over the car it has 26.00 Mv on the ground points (This doesn’t matter if the contact is on or off). When I take the + off the battery and leave the – attached. And the check again. All the ground points give a clear ground signal on the Volt meter. This doesn’t matter if the contact is on or off.

I putted the + back on, and started measure again on the ground points.. now by unplugging cable by cable on the engine fuse box but no difference in Mv on the ground points… still the same 26.00 Mv.

I did the same to take away the ECU.. still no difference
Measure voltage from positive to negative on the battery and then to various ground points. Do the measurements differ by 26 Mv? If not then it’s your meter not being very accurate at low end of the range
DC 0.1mV~600V(0.8%5) what it says on the box. Not sure in real, but going to check.
I have a couple of multimeters and I don’t find they are brilliantly accurate :( so it was just a thought
You are right.. Not all the multimeters say what they do..(And the one i have is Chinese 😷). But still its highly strange that there is a reading of Mv on ground points when the + is attached on the batterie, while without the + attached the same meter gives a ground signal on the same holding point. And its not only the ground points.. its also the ground wires to the ECU. I will try to make a movie of it.. and put a link on here.
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I want to keep some updates here on this forum for how it stands, especially also on Ian M davis who putted a lot of efforts and time/diagrams for my problem.. Thanks for that in the first place Ian M Davis!

Today i picked up a set of BSI and ECU. Before i will put this in.. i will first still finding out why there is some Mv going around the car, and walk trough the diagrams as Ian advised on the grounds.



Be continued………………
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