I would focus on why the ECU is not communicating. Could be that it is not powering up??? I would certainly suspect a wiring loom issue over the ECU failing
After the storm at night, when I tried to start it in the morning and before the car went into eco mode.. there was a warning in the display (electronic theft protection). After this there was no start anymore and showed the above outcome in PP2000. The storm had no lightning.. it was more a blizzard of rain and a lot of wind. Before i had never a problem with rain or start/electronic problems. (This happened some months back and the car is all dry now (24 degrees outside)).Is the storm significant? Could it be lightning close by, affecting the electronics? Check earth points, wiring connectors, battery charge and reconnect procedure etc. What works and what doesn't?
When you say the you have a short circuit at the fuses do you mean they are both blown? I had a look at the wiring diagrams for the 206 MUX and it is a bit surprising both brake light fuses are blown. They are separate circuits. The most likely way this would happen is if the cable to the back of the car was damaged. Are there any problems with the tail lights. I doubt this is related to your ECU problem.Today I did a further inspection on shorts and wires on my car, I figured that on two fuses who are located on the BSI have shorts. Its fuse 20 and 21 as shown on the picture. The two fuses are responsible for brake lights. I’m not sure is this fault comes from the BSI itself or there is a short somewhere down the trail. Maybe this is the cause that the BSI is malfunctioning now, and doesn’t wakeup the engine ECU (its kinds strange, because in PP2000 the BSI didn’t gave any faults). I have a Haynes manual, but it doesn’t show much of wire diagrams to and around the BSI. Its hard now to figure out what wire are coming and going from the BSI to the brake lights. Does anybody know a link are reference where I see the BSI diagrams and connectors etc.??
Maybe a thing to know... when unpluged the fuses, the car still didnt start.
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Hello Ian,When you say the you have a short circuit at the fuses do you mean they are both blown? I had a look at the wiring diagrams for the 206 MUX and it is a bit surprising both brake light fuses are blown. They are separate circuits. The most likely way this would happen is if the cable to the back of the car was damaged. Are there any problems with the tail lights. I doubt this is related to your ECU problem.
I have attached two diagrams for your car. The first is the synopsis for the injection. The second shows the connection between the engine fuse box and the ECU. When you turn the ignition on the engine ECU closes a relay (master relay) in the Engine fuse box. This relay then provides the main power supply to the ECU. I have known this relay to fail and if that happens it quite likely that PP2000 will not be able to communicate with the ECU.
You need to do some voltage measurement at the engine fuse box. You need to find the black 16 pin plug and push the red probe in the back of pin 13 and the black probe needs to touch an unpainted part of the car body. When the ignition is OFF you should read 12V and when the ignition is ON you should read 0V. It would be worth repeating the test at pin 8. It should be 0V with the ignition OFF and 12V with the ignition ON.
A couple of things from you diagnostic results:
(i) The car can have up to 5 keys. The synchronisation tell you the remote buttons have been pressed on one of the five key recently. No for all five is normal.
(ii) Do you still have a Peugeot radio?
One final question does the car crank? The starter motor is not connected to the ECU so the car should still crank.
One other question. I don't see ABS brakes listed in the PP2000 diagnostics so I guess your car doesn't have ABS. Is that correct?
PIN 13 has a constant 12 volt, no matter if i switch the key on or off.I have attached two diagrams for your car. The first is the synopsis for the injection. The second shows the connection between the engine fuse box and the ECU. When you turn the ignition on the engine ECU closes a relay (master relay) in the Engine fuse box. This relay then provides the main power supply to the ECU. I have known this relay to fail and if that happens it quite likely that PP2000 will not be able to communicate with the ECU.
You need to do some voltage measurement at the engine fuse box. You need to find the black 16 pin plug and push the red probe in the back of pin 13 and the black probe needs to touch an unpainted part of the car body. When the ignition is OFF you should read 12V and when the ignition is ON you should read 0V. It would be worth repeating the test at pin 8. It should be 0V with the ignition OFF and 12V with the ignition ON.
I have todo this agin... Im almost sure I measured 12 volts on (48V MR) PIN: B4. But ill check again.In case you haven't realised the voltage you were checking at pin 8 of the black plug is one of the ECU connections you mentioned in #3. It connects to pin A4 of ECU connector 32V NR (32 pin black plug your plug C). I have asked you to check the other 12V connection to the ECU in Next Step below.
Front right sensor Pin 5 and 6------- No readingABS
Most of the ABS measurements makes sense except Pin 26 is the earth connection. It should read 0V. It connects to a stud/bolt (MC10) near the front left headlight.
Pin 13 is not used.
We will need to check the front right sensor at some stage. You can do this by measuring the resistance (Ω Ohms scale) between each pair of pins at the blue plug. I would check all four pairs.
The sensor connections are:
Front right sensor Pin 5 and 6
Rear right sensor Pin 11 and 12
Front Left sensor pins 8 and 9
Rear left sensor pins 3 and 2
Ignition ON reads 12 Volt.Next Step
Find the green 16 pin connector on the fuse box and measure the voltage at pin 12 with the ignition ON. If there is no voltage check fuse 4.
You were right... It was millivolts readingCheck earth point MC10. It is the earth point for both the ABS and engine fuse box. That 22V reading was extremely strange. I wonder if it was milliVolts but I could see mV on your meter's display. However, if both probes were making a good contact I would be very surprised if the meter read anything other than 0V. It should be the same as touching both probes together. You may need to remove the headlight to get to MC10. You should also check earth MC11 which may require removing the other headlight. I have attached location diagrams for both earth points.
Relay R1 is the master relay as soon as the ignition is turned on R1 should close. One side of R1 coil connects to the 12 Volt rail in the fuse box. The other side connects to the ECU. When the ignition is turned on the ECU would switch the coil to earth. Your test show that this is not happening. If R1 doesn't close the ECU will be missing one of its power supplies and the fuel pump will not work.I have to do this again... Im almost sure I measured 12 volts on (48V MR) PIN: B4. But i'll check again.
So as I understands...The 32V NR (plug C) Pin A4 is returning 12 volts to PIN 8 on the 16N NR.. what goes to the relay R1 on the BM34?
This means the ECU is toast?