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Discussion Starter #1
hi

I have 2005 peugeot partner and it has factory central locking but without remote. I want to fit afftermarket remote locking so that I can lock unock via remote. Existing lock / unlock all working with switch inside and also with key.

So far I have only found out green wire inside the door going to motor is lock
and blue wire is unlock.

I have tried to connect aftermarket kit but it does not operate.

Aftermarket kit has Red (positive), Black (negitive), orange and orange/black (not needed), white and white/black which are (lock / unlock) and then yellow and yellow/black (both together either positive or negitive).

Not sure what I am missing (i have installed this kit in other vehicles with success) can someone suggest or know how to connect.

thanks
 

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hi

I have 2005 peugeot partner and it has factory central locking but without remote. I want to fit afftermarket remote locking so that I can lock unock via remote. Existing lock / unlock all working with switch inside and also with key.

So far I have only found out green wire inside the door going to motor is lock
and blue wire is unlock.

I have tried to connect aftermarket kit but it does not operate.

Aftermarket kit has Red (positive), Black (negitive), orange and orange/black (not needed), white and white/black which are (lock / unlock) and then yellow and yellow/black (both together either positive or negitive).

Not sure what I am missing (i have installed this kit in other vehicles with success) can someone suggest or know how to connect.

thanks
you could just swap the coms unit and program a genuine remote fob to it
 

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hi

I have 2005 peugeot partner and it has factory central locking but without remote. I want to fit afftermarket remote locking so that I can lock unock via remote. Existing lock / unlock all working with switch inside and also with key.

So far I have only found out green wire inside the door going to motor is lock
and blue wire is unlock.

I have tried to connect aftermarket kit but it does not operate.

Aftermarket kit has Red (positive), Black (negitive), orange and orange/black (not needed), white and white/black which are (lock / unlock) and then yellow and yellow/black (both together either positive or negitive).

Not sure what I am missing (i have installed this kit in other vehicles with success) can someone suggest or know how to connect.

thanks
the lock and unlock wires in the van either have a positive voltage or a negative voltage so if you put a volt meter across one of them then to earth and lock/unlock do you get a voltage if not then put then other side of the meter to positive
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the lock and unlock wires in the van either have a positive voltage or a negative voltage so if you put a volt meter across one of them then to earth and lock/unlock do you get a voltage if not then put then other side of the meter to positive
thanks I have tried to connect the lock / unlock wire from the aftermarket kit to vans lock / unlock (green / blue) and also vice versa the other way round. doesnt seem to do anything but i will go a head and check voltage
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
okay tried re connecting everything again as per instruction menu, when i press lock / unlock on the remote fob i can hear some noise coming from door motor (with door shut) but still does not lock/unlock, i am wondering if there are more wires to be connected to the kit, I am sure this is something that can be done but still wanting to know how.
 

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okay tried re connecting everything again as per instruction menu, when i press lock / unlock on the remote fob i can hear some noise coming from door motor (with door shut) but still does not lock/unlock, i am wondering if there are more wires to be connected to the kit, I am sure this is something that can be done but still wanting to know how.
you neew to test if the wires on the car are +12 or -12v wires once you know that then you need to make sure that the wires on the unit you are fitting are the same
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They are 12positive and have already tried connecting correct wires at correct location, will try a different diagram connection for electric locking, i am sure the existing factory locking is not pneumatic,

So from the kit:

Orange - switch on the dash
Orange/black - switch on the dash
White - lock green wire from door
White/black - unlock blue wire from door
Yellow and yellow/black - 12v+

Red 12+
Black ground

Will see if this works
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK after a bit of fiddling i have found out that -

green = lock
blue = unlock

when i trace the above 2 wires all the way to the door pillar connector (wires in door hinge rubber boot), blue and green does not exist in there. possibly changed colours once they are out of the door into the round connector

Does anyone know what colour wires are for locking / unlocking on BSI?

maybe the aftermarket kit needs to be connected to wires in bsi to locl/unlock and not the door wires (green/blue) for lock/unlock

cheers
 

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Did you figure this out?

I have a 2007 I am trying to do the same but now it seems the driver door connetor has failed after removing it from socket on latch.

How did you establish the function of green and blue wires if you can not use them to lock/unlock?

Wouldn't it be easier to mount the lock/unlock unit in the door? That is what I had planned.

I figure one of those wires in the door probably carries 12V
 

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BSI? WTF?

No idea what BSI means

Here is what I have discovered on Peugeot Partner Grand Raid 2007

On driver's door:
When key is inserfted and door is locked this causes all locks to lock
When key is inserted and door is unlocked all doors unlock

Apparently all we need is in the driver's door except possibly 12V


This locking mechanizm is done through the following:
There are 5 Wires to a connector on door latch in a 6 Pin Plug. One pin is unused. Much like the image posted earlier in this thread.

Two wires are fatter (also like image), probably because they need to carry more current for the Actuator or solenoid that locks and unlocks the door.

The remaing three wires I see that red has 3V on it, but then changes when door is locked with key to 0V (I may have this backwards and the reverse may be true and may have 3V when locked and 0 when unlocked)

I was unable to detect a voltage on the other wires which are blue-green in color one with a yellow strip while locked or unklocked (and door closed).

I also suspect that lock/unklock detection may be done with 2 wires ; "supply" and "detect" because from what I can tell the "door ajar" sensor uses the same wiring and this may be the purpose of the third wire.


I therefore believe that if I can get a 12V supply in the door I can tie in to the same circuit that the door latch uses . I may need to use some solid state relays and maybe some logic as I may have to go in parallel for lock and series for unlock with dry contact closures, or visa versa

It seems that working from the door where everything is more identifiable is the easiest. I will get back to this later and see what more I can figure out but I am advancing. These same wires clearly send a signal already to the central locking mechanism, so why re-invent the wheel?

Tonight I will do continuity tests on the suspected pins while in locked and unlocked positions, as well as door open / closed to see if I can prove the door ajar sensor theory.
 

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Here is what I have discovered


Green/yellow refers to greeen wire with yellow stripe. I am not dealing with the fatter wires as I am sure that provides power to the locking mechanism

The solid green wire clearly signals door ajar it shows 3+ volts when door is closed and 0V when open

Shorting red and green/yellow wires causes all doors to lock

Disconnecting connector to latch (breaking green/yellow and red connection causes all doors to unlock. but is NOT the same as unshorting red and Green/yellow as unshorting these does not unlock it seems.

I would surmise the mechanical lock holds the green/yellow connected to red , so to get to unlock mode we would need a NC contact in series with either green/yellow or red (perhaps either?) to break this then the Mechanism will unlock the door thereby breaking the contact in the mechanism. Once the mechanism connection is broken the door will unlock and the switch in the mechanism will then be open so we can reconnect it only after a moment.

As I stated that I believed before, this needs a dry contact closure not a +12 or -12 . Most of the universal keyless systems offer +12 or -12 so what we can do is add a pair of Solid state relays like these

https://info.e-t-a.com/PPC-Google-2016-ESR10-Keyword_LP-Destination.html?&gclid=CjwKCAjw8O7bBRB0EiwAfbrThwZ7sttHqu4KqkcihwFlxq40Z1jgaS-cg0nODm7e_9BYN3jIIdbB4BoCFToQAvD_BwE

NC= Normally Closed (contacts closed when not energized)
NO= Normally Open (contacts open when not energized)

Now we put the NC contacts in series with the red or green/yellow and energize that from a universal keyless system's UNLOCK 12V function. This becomes the UNLOCK relay. When the Relay is energized it will open causing all doors to unlock

On another relay we connect NO contacts across Green/yellow and red (before the series relay) . We energize this from the universal keyless system's LOCK 12V, Thus becoming the LOCK relay. When energized shorts the red and Green/yellow locking all doors

It seems I can pick up a Chinese Universal keyless system with remotes pretty damn cheap, so I will be doing that. I can then document this and how it works. I prefer to get away from the proprietary modules as much as possible whenever I can.

I can not imagine what the local dealer would get to replace with factory parts. I know what they wanted for a replacement key/remote and it was too much. Peugeot dealers in Mexico are crooks. Nothing ever costs what they quote and automatically a high bill for their "full revision" even if you just want a radio antenna replaced.
 

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I did this and all you need is three wires (really only 2 but we must cut one, making 3 connections total.) from the drivers side door . You could probably get these out of the harness before the door if you had a diagram but I tied in at the driver's door


It turned out I did not need the relays at all. In fact the keyless system has dry contact closures if you look at the diagram labelled "Internal working Scheme for Central Controlling Unit"

I connected in the door


UNLOCK (NC in series In series with door latch switch)
broke the conection of the red wire (CUT) and connected Orange/Black to the red to door latch from keyless entry system.

The red that contines to the harness central Locking unit I connected to White Black.




LOCK (NO in Parallel with door latch switch)
White in parallel to Red. As we cut the red above the connection is made with the NC contact of keyless entry so we should connect this to the harness side of the red (not the latch side of red) . This gives us theree wires total on this connection White, Black/white and one side of the red we cut.

Yellow connects to Green/yellow in parallel we do not need to cut it only strip it a little.


The end result is from keyless system white and white / Black connect to harness side of red wire that we cut. The Orange/black then to the red that connects to door latch.

remaining yellow to Green/Yellow , do not cut just strip some insulation off and solder.



The complication with the central locking button is that it is not on/off it is a momentary contact so lock and unlock would not be absolute. It would always be dependent on and relevant to the previous condition. I want to be able to hit lock and have it lock and always have unlock make it unlock.

I might have also investigated the Lock solenoid to see how it locks/unlocks. if it is + voltage means lock and - Voltage means unluck that could work too but might also be same polarity for lock and unlock thereby putting me in the same relatve lock unlock condition mentioned above. If you have absolute control of the lock solenoid in drives side door then this would also ba a solution.

I like the way I did it best as it seems more "correct"


tried to post images here but they do not show up . So posting links to images

http://teknogeekz.com/pukejoe/Scan20180907004204Rotate.jpg

http://teknogeekz.com/pukejoe/Scan20180907004337.jpg
 

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Hi, i have just fitted one of these aftermarket units to my 2011 van.Mine came from the factory with central locking but no remote . I couldn't make sense of the wiring diagram exactly but i worked out that wires for the door lock system where numbered 6XXX . I chose to use the passenger side as it was closer to the battery for wiring to the box. I removed the plastic cover from around the bonnet release and located the wires going from the loom to the passenger door. I used a bulb tester with a pin on the end and stabbed into a wire to test. I found a pink wire, that flashed the bulb when i unlocked door with either the key or the central lock button on the dash. And i found a green wire that flashed the same when i locked. So from the remote unlock box i spliced the unlock wire to the vans unlock wire and its corresponding switch wire (from box) to a live, and same for the lock side of things. That worked perfect. On pressing the lock button on the fob it did exactly what you would expect, it locked and the lights flashed. Same for the unlock. So i assumed it was a positive switching door lock, a flash to the correct one would lock or unlock. I used it for a week like this with no issue.

Then everything went wrong. I took the van to get a spare key cut(with imobiliser/transponder chip) and also to get blade on remote fob cut and fitted with the same chip. That part went ok, spare key works fine as does the remote fob key. However as soon as i'd had the keys done the remote would not work correctly. It would lock but not unlock. I've tested everything and the remote box is working correctly as it was but its like the vans wiring has changed , i know that sounds mad. I tried a BSI reset and that leaves the fob not working at all, but the box works and the test light still flashes correctly. If i try to programme the remote like you would do if it was a factory fit i.e Ignition on then hold fob button down for 10 secs i get the fob able to unlock but not lock. Everything else is functioning 100% correct. Am i missing something, anyone any ideas ?

Many Thanks.
 

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Hi, i have just fitted one of these aftermarket units to my 2011 van.Mine came from the factory with central locking but no remote . I couldn't make sense of the wiring diagram exactly but i worked out that wires for the door lock system where numbered 6XXX . I chose to use the passenger side as it was closer to the battery for wiring to the box. I removed the plastic cover from around the bonnet release and located the wires going from the loom to the passenger door. I used a bulb tester with a pin on the end and stabbed into a wire to test. I found a pink wire, that flashed the bulb when i unlocked door with either the key or the central lock button on the dash. And i found a green wire that flashed the same when i locked. So from the remote unlock box i spliced the unlock wire to the vans unlock wire and its corresponding switch wire (from box) to a live, and same for the lock side of things. That worked perfect. On pressing the lock button on the fob it did exactly what you would expect, it locked and the lights flashed. Same for the unlock. So i assumed it was a positive switching door lock, a flash to the correct one would lock or unlock. I used it for a week like this with no issue.

Then everything went wrong. I took the van to get a spare key cut(with imobiliser/transponder chip) and also to get blade on remote fob cut and fitted with the same chip. That part went ok, spare key works fine as does the remote fob key. However as soon as i'd had the keys done the remote would not work correctly. It would lock but not unlock. I've tested everything and the remote box is working correctly as it was but its like the vans wiring has changed , i know that sounds mad. I tried a BSI reset and that leaves the fob not working at all, but the box works and the test light still flashes correctly. If i try to programme the remote like you would do if it was a factory fit i.e Ignition on then hold fob button down for 10 secs i get the fob able to unlock but not lock. Everything else is functioning 100% correct. Am i missing something, anyone any ideas ?

Many Thanks.
if your van had central locking but no remote from factory all you have to do to add factory remote is change comms unit (not coded but if it has esp then will need calibrating) and program a remote fob key
 

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if your van had central locking but no remote from factory all you have to do to add factory remote is change comms unit (not coded but if it has esp then will need calibrating) and program a remote fob key
Hi i have same problem 2011 partner no fob. Where would i get a comms unit. Thanks
 
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