[Ian M Davis]

I see that fuses 5, 10, 19 and 20V have no power. This means that relay R2 in the BSM has not closed it probably means that R1 has not closed. Relay R1 is the master relay and is controlled by the engine ECU over wire No 1226 (pin 8 of 28V NR - 28 pin black BSM connector). It should be at 12V when the ignition is off and go to 0V when the ignition is on. If this is not happening it could be due to a bad connection to the engine ECU or the engine ECU is faulty.

I have attached the SEDRE injection diagram which is more relevant to your problem.

EDIT
If relay R1 in the BSM doesn't close the engine ECU will not get its main power supply which would explain why the CAN bus is not communicating.

 

[Ian M Davis]

Okay. Going by the VIN your engine is a RHD which is a DW10CTED4. I think this is the right injection diagram.

EDIT
Someone suggested to feed Fuse 5 with 12v. F5 should supply pin 6 of the 53v NR with power. Is that a good idea? Just to check if I get communication with ECU on diagnostics. I'm hesitant to do this; don't want to do stupid things.

I don't think that is a good idea it will not provide all the power to the engine ECU. You need to find out what is happening at pin 9 of 28V NR of the BSM.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I think the contacts have failed on relay R2. The problem is on some cars relay R2 only turns on when the key is in the crank position but given that you are measuring 9.6V with the MAF disconnected I think the relay is closing and the contacts are worn. The MAF will load the circuit so it makes sense you get some voltage when you disconnect it.

Can you back probe 28V NR pin 5 with the ignition on. It should have full battery voltage. If that is okay then you can try applying 12V to fuse 10 and then see if you can start the car. I suggest connecting to fuse 10 because it has the higher rating. Fuses 5, 19 and 20 also connect to relay R2.

 

[Ian M Davis]

It is now clear that the main power supply is connecting to the engine ECU. It is common for there to be no power on fuses F5, F10, F19, F20 until the engine is cranked or running. The other thing that often happens is the BSI will not allow the car to crank if there is no communication with the engine ECU.

You have already check the resistance of the CAN bus and 60 Ohms is correct. One further test you can do is measure the voltages at the OBD connector:
Measure the voltage at pin 6 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or greater.
Measure the voltage at pin 14 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or less.

Provide the engine ECU earth is in good order it is looking likely that the ECU is faulty. You idea of trying another ECU is a good one provided it has the same manufacturer part number.

 

[Ian M Davis]

This bas been checked earlier buth whitout a min-max function on the DVOM.
But I like checking everything double and triple and ...
Will also recheck the grounds on the ECU (a 'last' time).

Ian, I can't thank you enough for thinking with me and providing things to do/check and possible solutions !!!

Ideally you should check the CAN bus with an oscilloscope but I have found just using the dc volts scale on a multimeter can detect a lot of problems.
If there is no data on the CAN bus both the CAN Hi and CAN LO lines should be close to 2.5V. When there is signal the DC voltmeter will measure the average so the CAN Hi line will be above 2.5V and the can low well be the same amount below 2.5V.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I was thinking about your problem overnight. Given that you found full battery voltage at fuse box connector 28V NR pin 5 it means the ECU should be getting enough power to run the CAN bus. The other power connections (Relay 2 -Fuses 5 10, 19 20) usually only turn on when the car is cranked. Although the ECU isn't directly involved with the cranking I have found before that cars will not crank if there is no communication between the BSI and ECU. I suspect the BSI inhibits the cranking. I suspect you have faulty ECU but it might be worth checking the continuity between:
Fuse box connector 28V NR pin 5 and ECU connector 53V NR pins 2 and 5.

There are companies that can test and repair ECUs. If your ECU is unrepairable in some cases they can copy the immobiliser data from your old ECU to a replacement.

BTW how did you manage to back probe the connector they usually have seals?

 

[Ian M Davis]

If the ECU has the same part number Delphi DCM 3.5 HW9666912580 is should be good enough to test your car. However, I can't guarantee it will work properly. The reason I say this is I was in a long discussion with forum member "Bald Eagle". He had a 308 CC 20 HDi and he found a ECU from a Citroen with identical part numbers to his. He was able to write the correct PIN to the ECU and the car would start but it had performance issues. There are two memories on the ECU: EEPROM and Flash. The EEPROM contains the immobiliser data including the PIN and the Flash memory has the car's profile. It wasn't until he copied the Flash memory data from an identail car that everything worked properly.

 

[Ian M Davis]

One thing to do when using Diagbox is to check if you need to code the injectors in the new ECU. I checked Peugeot Servicebox and there is no procedure to change the injectors. However, it is quite likely your injectors will have a code number which needs to be entered into the ECU. If so there will be a set of four numbers from the car the ECU came from already entered you will need to change these to the numbers on your injectors. Diagbox is different for every model so I am not sure where to look but I would expect the injector settings to be under replacement parts.