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Hi guys

We have a '05 307 SW with the 1.6 litre petrol engine. It's the NFU (TU5JP4) variant.

I am struggling with low power output from the engine (not much happens under 2000 rpm) and I am currently looking at engine timing.

I have examined the timing belt and found the following:

When I lock the two camshaft sprockets (i.e. locking pins inserted) the bottom alignment mark is pointing straight down.

However, at this time the mark on the flywheel (as seen through the hole behind the oil filter) is NOT visible.

When aligning the mark on the flywheel the timing is shifted a bit (see pictures).

I have shown this on the attached pictures.

Is this normal for this engine?

Timing as seen from the timing belt side (flywheel hole unaligned):
Flywheel hole unaligned (Large).jpg

Timing when flywheel alignment hole is seen:
Flywheel hole aligned (Large).jpg

Flywheel mark inspection hole:
Flywheel timing hole (Large).jpg
 

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I'm interested in hearing opinions on this too.
Mine is also pretty feeble below 2000 rpm. The power comes in quite well after that so it likes to be revved. Maybe this is just how the engine power map was programmed.

I've just had my timing belts changed so I assume my timing is correct but as you say there is a lack of power below 2000 rpm.
 

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Surely what matters is how the flywheel lines up....can it be locked with a pin along with the camshaft sprockets at the same time.

I know there have been treads where people have changed the belt and have been a tooth out and that has affected the running, but you'd need to do a search
 

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I need to check some suspect timing on an NFU. I understood from what I had read that the crank marks were down when timed but if the flywheel pin won't go in until you rotate it further then I am unsure.

Can someone please confirm where the crank marks should be when the flywheel pin is inserted.

Thanks
 

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I was replacing my belt recently and hit the same problem... only to realise I was trying to lock the flywheel through a wrong hole in the engine block!

There are two openings next to each other in the engine block. The pics in the original post are showing the flywheel through a wrong hole and it will produce exactly the result. i.e. camshafts do not align with locking holes.

However the correct opening for flywheel locking is just above it and it aligns perfectly i.e camshafts align with their holes and crank pulley mark is pointing straight downwards, new belt marks match perfectly with marks on all pulley.

Make sure you push the thing through a right hole boys, will save you a lot of nerves and embarrassment! :D

timinghole.jpg
 

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Good find, well done. It is not easy to see but if you pin them like the chap did in the first report and find the flywheel hole is out then ensure the crank does not turn and just use the front marks. But obviously it is better to lock the crank and now we know where.
 

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I was replacing my belt recently and hit the same problem... only to realise I was trying to lock the flywheel through a wrong hole in the engine block!

There are two openings next to each other in the engine block. The pics in the original post are showing the flywheel through a wrong hole and it will produce exactly the result. i.e. camshafts do not align with locking holes.

However the correct opening for flywheel locking is just above it and it aligns perfectly i.e camshafts align with their holes and crank pulley mark is pointing straight downwards, new belt marks match perfectly with marks on all pulley.

Make sure you push the thing through a right hole boys, will save you a lot of nerves and embarrassment! :D

View attachment 80474
I have just started doing this!! and having just read through this with great interest I am still having trouble finding the hole and could anyone please tell me what size allen key or drill bit to use to lock it off with?

I am starting to get very tempted to make a bracket to strap on the the crank pulley and secure it somewhere else!!!
 

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bend a longer piece of metal rod 4-5mm in diameter to shape and put through the right hole. As you turn the crankshaft on the pulley (clockwise!) with one hand you will feel the rod rubbing against the turning flywheel. As your camshafts approach the locking spots on the engine block, the rod should pop in the locking hole on the flywheel (you'll feel it drops a couple of mm?) locking your flywheel. If your current timing is correct, the camshafts will align nicely with their locking points and the crank pulley white mark will point directly downwards, hope it helps.
 

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bend a longer piece of metal rod 4-5mm in diameter to shape and put through the right hole. As you turn the crankshaft on the pulley (clockwise!) with one hand you will feel the rod rubbing against the turning flywheel. As your camshafts approach the locking spots on the engine block, the rod should pop in the locking hole on the flywheel (you'll feel it drops a couple of mm?) locking your flywheel. If your current timing is correct, the camshafts will align nicely with their locking points and the crank pulley white mark will point directly downwards, hope it helps.
Many thanks for the quick reply I will now go and find some rod and start over again
 

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bend a longer piece of metal rod 4-5mm in diameter to shape and put through the right hole. As you turn the crankshaft on the pulley (clockwise!) with one hand you will feel the rod rubbing against the turning flywheel. As your camshafts approach the locking spots on the engine block, the rod should pop in the locking hole on the flywheel (you'll feel it drops a couple of mm?) locking your flywheel. If your current timing is correct, the camshafts will align nicely with their locking points and the crank pulley white mark will point directly downwards, hope it helps.
Many thanks for the quick reply I will now go and find some rod and start over again
I found some 6mm bar that I ground down to 5mm and bent to shape. Refitted the bar and with a bit of wiggling on the crank nut I felt the bar slot home and the crank is now locked in position. The cams are now pinned and its now ready for a cambelt change.

Many thanks for this posting as its been of immense help.
 

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Just a quick one for anyone else finding this post. 4mm threaded bar bends really easily and it goes easier as well because the hole in the crank is 6mm.

Also the 2 mm play lets you rotate the crank back a fraction and boy does that make fitting the belt on the non tensioner side a breeze. Anything that makes life easier is a plus...
 

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Did have the same symptoms, lack of power on low rpm, still was about drivable until on one cold morning start wife said it did not start.
Belt was jumped four tooth ahead! May be valve hitting piston so so many crank turns that became ahead? valves were not bent but there was hitting marks.
What i did was i bought new head sealing set with new valves and all sealings. Dismantled also tappets and cleaned with ultra sound, those seemed still to be ok. Old valves seemed to have good seats also sealed.
Main thing was that inlet cam sprocket "wedge" knob was broken so inlet cam sprocket was not aligned. It was about 10 degrees behind and i think that that has been so for long time and was the root fail.
When reassembled all, motor it was ok from very first start. Good rev from low and ticking very powerful. Anti pollution dismiss by it self.
Before i did change almost every sensor and injection nozzles and almost everything you can imagine to fix the power lankness.
So one thing is to check that cam sprockets are aligned as they should be.
 
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