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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I'm thinking of blocking my egr valve as it has stuck open and the EML is on.
I would like to remove and clean but this seems like a big job on the 2.0l hdi.
I have been searching the forums and the internet for information, I'm hoping I can block off the valve without having to go right behind the engine.
Am I right in thinking this and is it safe to drive with the valve open, as I have been for a few months now. The engine performance seems ok.
Thanks for any information on this
 

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It’s easy to blank that car if the egr is fully working but if it’s stuck it needs to have a blank fitted which is a bit of a pain they are available on eBay


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It’s a blank between the pipe you don’t need to take the egr off it’s just a bit harder then most cars as the pipe is between the egr and the cooler


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Discussion Starter #7
so if i remove windscreen wipers and the plastic trim below them will i be able to access it ok even if a bit fiddly
 

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How do you know it's stuck open. It's a vac unit with no feedback on the 90 and 110. Fault code for anything other than EGR flow will likely be electro valve or lack of vacuum. Try blanking vac pipe first if it smokey or lumpy if it's in limp check/change electrovalve

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
its not in limp it drives fine but the fault code(number I cant remember) but it said excessive air flow egr
THESE ARE THE FAULT CODES
P0402 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW EXCESSIVE DETECTED
P0400 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION MALFUNCTION


Blanked off vac pipe at solenoid but didn't seem to make any difference
 

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Discussion Starter #10
stored dtcs
P0402 EXHAUST GAS RE CIRCULATION FLOW EXCESSIVE DETECTED
P0400 EXHAUST GAS RE CIRCULATION FLOW MALFUNCTION
P1352 FAULT DEFINITION NOT AVAILABLE
 

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Discussion Starter #11
These are the fault codes
p0402 exhaust gas recirculation flow excessive detected
p0400 exhaust gas recirculation malfunction
 

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If car runs fine then it's likely valve is shut and fault code is from other factors.

You can get this code from low boost or a dirty/failing MAF. The ECU thinks EGR is faulty as MAF is reporting a lower value than expected so ECU assumes EGR is open to make up the calculated air flow

Second code could be faulty electovalve or just triggered from first code

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Getting the panel off is straight forward once you have the wiper blades off. The taper on them to the mechanism is really tight and even when using a blade removal tool they come off with a lot of effort. Levering with a screw driver would end up damaging something. On my car anyway. Even after taking them off previously the next time I had to they were just as tight. Anyway once that panel is off you should be able to get at the vacuum pipes to check to see if they are on the valve and check to see if they are serviceable.
The puller for the blades are cheap enough to buy off ebay etc
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First of all thank you all for your help here, I'm really hoping its not ERG valve so ill look at MAF sensor Maybe get some cleaner for it and see what happens I'll carry on driving the car MOT is in January so I hope I can sort it out by then.
Ill post on here when I have cleaned the MAF sensor Thanks for that glimmer of hope Windy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor used nearly a hole a can of cleaner loads of black came off the inside turned the MIL light off but comes back on after 20 miles. Also changed air filter as it looked dirty.
Just blocked the EGR pipe near the vacuum solenoid I'll turn off MIL and see if it stays off. Not sure where to go if MIL comes back on
 

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Getting the panel off is straight forward once you have the wiper blades off. The taper on them to the mechanism is really tight and even when using a blade removal tool they come off with a lot of effort. Levering with a screw driver would end up damaging something. On my car anyway. Even after taking them off previously the next time I had to they were just as tight. Anyway once that panel is off you should be able to get at the vacuum pipes to check to see if they are on the valve and check to see if they are serviceable.
The puller for the blades are cheap enough to buy off ebay etc
Funnily enough after taking the wiper arms off my SW the other day to take off the scuttle panel, I then noticed that the panel is actually slotted so you can slide it down from the wiper spindles without removing the arms (would need some manouevring to get other bits clear of the blades if not already broken like mine) - so doesn't appear to be necessary to remove the wiper arms at all.
Probably worth removing the beam first then the panel (undo the brake reservoir screws and slide it off, then 1 bolt each side to remove the beam), gives much much more access to the top of the engine for very little spanner work.

Once cracked a windscreen trying to lever wiper arms off with a screwdriver, lesson learned very quickly!
 

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I use a screw type ball joint breaker on the arm to remove stubborn ones.

Sometimes they will also come loose if you remove the nut and try pushing arms up the windscreen instead of levering them

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Still getting Mil light on fed up with it now ill just turn off before MOT and hope for best seems to run fine and after disconnecting vacuum pipe for egr I think getting more MPG
I used small 3 leg puller for wipers was not really sitting straight but i held it and it gave enough leverage to release
 
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