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Hi, a newby to the site here but I thought I'd share my very recent experience of changing a clutch in my 207 GT HDi 110. Anyone else considering the job might get some inspration - at this point I'm going to assume you don't have the use of a lift which would make life so mush easier.

1. Before you start raise the car and put on blocks at such a height that you can comfortably work underneath or above it. I suggest raising the entire car to the same height but I guess this isn't necessary. While you're under there shecking remove the under-tray!!
2. Bite the bullet right at the begining - take both wheel arch linings out and the front bumper. Once the linings are out the bumper is 4 torqs screws under the front edge of the bonnet, 2 screws underneath and 2 screws in each wheel arch where the bumper and wings join. Then just slide it forwards taking care to disconnect the fog light wiring.
3. Remove the headlights - just the NS will probably do but I took both out as a) it is simple to do, b) it protects them and c) I was doing the cambelt at the same time.
4. Remove the front crossmember AND then swivel the radiator assembly out towards the OS. The intercooler, air-con and engine cooling rads all come out as one lump and the air-con hoses have enough careful give to allow it to rotate out of the way yet still hold it vertical. We found a plastic box which when inverted was a perfect height to sit the assembly on.
5. Remove the NS suspension leg cw drive shaft taking care to catch the oil from the diff seal as you pull the shaft out. To remove the leg you've got the anti-roll bar, the track rod end, the bottom ball joint and the nut on the strut top to remove. Depending on rust this is not a huge task but ..... get a helper to weigh down on a bar pushing the lower arm down while you knock the ball joint out with a long drift. This is done once the pinch bolt is removed and the drift should be aimed at one of the rivets holding the bottom ball joint to the arm. Once you've done this keep on the floor and remove the two cross-chassis members (one in front and one behind the engine). Keep at it and also remove the box section that goes from the chassis leg to the front of the car on the NS across the end of the gearbox!!! Good luck!!
6. Battery out, ECU out, battery box out. Ducting to and from the air-filter box out, then remove the fuel filter and its alloy mounting.
7. Seperate and remove the air-filter housing - it does come out (honest).
8. Flip the gear selector cables off the ball joints (they literally just flip off once you get it right) then gently prize them from the plastic holder.
9. Remove the gear selector cable housing - two screws on top and a nut down behind. Take the nut off FIRST!!!
10. From underneath remove the plastic tank from above the OS driveshaft on the back of the engine. One nut on the OS then a pull off a ball mounting. Once loose disconnect the two hoses and remove.
11. Back on top remove the starter - the screwed on electrical connections are behind and not the easiest to get to but a 1/4" drive socket set deals with them quite ok. The starter has two screws from the OS and one from the NS.
12. Remove the two screws and pop the clutch release slave cylinder out of the way to the right.
13. Remove the cable tray which wraps around the engine above the flywheel housing. It's just two fasteners and cable ties but still awkward to work clear.
14. Support the engine (we used a trolley jack and a 1" thick piece of wood jammed up between the bell housing and the sump) and using a hoist / crane / etc support the grearbox. It has two lifting holes through the casting on it's mid point joint.
15. Underneath remove the engine stabiliser mount - completely - and any gearbox to engine bolts you can reach.
16. Remove the NS mount from both the gearbox and the body including any battery box supports remaining.
17. Remove all remaining gearbox to engine bolts / nuts except the one hiding behind the DPF lower RH mount. This one you undo as you slide the gearbox out of the clutch.
18. Once you've slid the gearbox out of the clutch enough that the bolt behind the DPF mount is no longer holding reach over and undo the 3 screws holding the seal / speedo drive housing on the OS drive shaft onto the diff housing and slide it plus the speedo drive back up the shaft whilst keeping it on the shiny bit!!!
19. Now you can twist, catch your fingers / knuckles etc until you get the gearbox out from below.

I've probably missed bits and bobs but I only wrote this so others could see it isn't as scary as it first appears plus I wanted to stop peeps removing the DPF unnecessarily.

Assembly is a simple reverse but ... make sure you get the speedo drive located on the slot as soon as the bolt behind the DPF mount has started in the gearbox.

I changed my DMF to a solid one as the car has done 80k and I didn't fancy repeating this job anytime in the future. Would I do it again? NO!! Just fit a new DMF and appreciate how smooth the car is!! I'm not saying a solid flywheel is horrific or anything but the DMF makes it that bit nicer and if the new one also covers 80k without issue why not stick with it???

If you choose to do the timing belt while you're at it wait until the gearbox is back on along with all the mounts then change the belt before you put the radiator pack back in. Again, some advice - change the water pump at the same time!!!!

I hope somone might benefit from this but if not then I guess nothing has been wasted :):thumb:
 

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This should be transferred to the how to guides and tutorials forum and stickied so it is not lost. IMO of course... ;)
 
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