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Yep do it yourself, easy.
Just make sure you get the correct additive.
Then use planet map above to get someone to reset counters on car for you.
 

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am i in trouble then?

Yes it will log a fault in engine ecu and also long term block the filter and can then damage turbo due to high back pressure
I'm in oz... I had the antipollution fault on for an age, never affected anything and it went away for a while. i've not checked the fluid level that has been discussed to see if that needs refilling (expensive here). but to immediate problems:

i changed the oil the other day, then drove around 600km when the car just lost all power. it starts but not very well and it behaves like it's starving for fuel or air or both. it's undriveable, and when i start it if i up the revs too fast it will stall, if i do it slow it makes this pulsating crunching noise coming out around the manifold area. the throttle generally is unresponsive without a slow up on the revs.

if the DPF was clogged, would it die just like that or just get worse slowly (i did have one occurance of it stalling after start a couple of days before, it otherwise was running fine)? I was on a long trip and really didn't notice any other problems.

when i take the top hoses off the Y section on the inlet manifold there seems to be a fair bit of oil (it's wet, at least) inside them and i don't know if that's normal. It also seemed a little easier to start when the top hose was off, and there was a noticeable amount of smoke/vapour coming from the engine out that hole.

I notice there is a butterfly in there, and wonder if that's what's making the noise (i'm on my own, so don't have someone to rev while i watch).

at one point, i did notice a huge amount of smoke coming out the exhaust that hasn't been there before (i assume something to do with the regeneration mode?).

hoping someone can shed some light on what might have happened? I don't have the software, and don't know anyone that does. i'm hesitant to take it to a dealer for obvious reasons.
 

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I would not use PAT Fluid. I would go for genuine fluid.
You used to check the colour of the quick connector on the tank to be 100% on the correct fluid however i think they now only stock one type (Infineum F7995) which can be used in any model

I think DPX42 systems need to fully drained when using the replacement fluid, the same is true with the PAT fluid tank needs draining and system purging before use, which is why the original fluid is better if you have a DPX175 system.

I also know of people who have mixed the 175 with diesel when filling tank as the old 42 system uses a higher volume of fluid per injection than the later system as it was less efficient and therefore needed a larger tank
 
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