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Interesting to note Vauxhall fit the same pump.
Vauxhall Crossland X & Grandland X are both Peugeot 2008 & 3008 in disguise plus use the same power units.

New Corsa is a new 208 in disguise.
 

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Hi guys, wonderful reading, great thread. I have code P20E8, the warning triangle and UREA light on.

I've removed the o ring in the cap and now it can breathe, reset the code but it keeps coming back.

I've been quoted £900 for a tank on evilbay OEM item.

I'm wondering should I get diagnostics done est £100 before buying the tank?

Will the new tank require coding to the car? If so can I fit it on the road outside the Stealership and drive it in or will it not run? If so I'm probably bound by using them.

Anyone who knows someone close-ish to Yeovil who can look at the motor please give me a shout. I am happy to fit the new tank but also happy to pay for fitting if someone can do diagnostics etc.

Many thanks.
 

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I forget to add car is late June 2015 Pug 5008 1.6 HDI blue edition. We have had the car from new and only Peugeot have ever filled the Adblue, I'm a touch saddened that they didn't put a working cap on when we visited one of the times.
 

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No, you won't find it there, but it was all part of a Peugeot service bulletin and should have been chaged.
Read through all these pages and you will find several references to it.
 

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My 16 plate 2008 (70000+ miles) drives well, has normal fuel consumption, but has its service light on for a long time. It's been put out 4 times but comes back after approx 35 miles. Was put out during a service and also for an MOT, which passed emissions easily. I figure the MOT isn't checking NOx, though, but that suggests engine performance is fine, it's just the NOx system that has an issue.

My Urea warning comes on and goes off intermittently without any apparent reason. It has gone into countdown mode this time, started with 700 miles, but now has only 100 miles left until lockdown!

It has been diagnosed by a main dealer, and they want silly money to replace my NOx sensor, and #4 injector. Based on this forum thread (I've read most of it), I doubt this will resolve my lights issues. Plus I wasn't convinced myself before coming on here. The dealer's head mechanic framed his comments with words like 'we've put our heads together to figure this out, and we think.....', not entirely convincing considering the money they want.

Based on comments on this thread my next step is to get a 327 OBD2 Scanner, so I can reset that countdown myself. Not sure the cheaper ones can do that job. Some info suggests they can while others say they can't. I'm confused. Is it just the error codes they delete? Will that stop the countdown? Can anyone let me know?

Then I plan to empty the Adblue tank with a syphon, fill and leave to soak with warm water. I'll let it dry out before replacing the adblue to about half full and see how it goes.

If anyone has any constructive comments, please let me know.
 

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Thanks Bri, the service manager at Howards Yeovil is a miserable toad. He tried to squirm out of repairing my car when the workshop damaged it. I don't expect much comeback from them.
 

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Nomad, this seems like a "French electrics" situation. I think looking for a forum member with decent diagnostics could help you out.
My code reader cost £35 and is VAG specific but will still reset lights, it's also 5 years old.

My wife likes Peugeot but I'm not convinced. I have had zero issues with my almost 20 year old Honda purchased almost the same time as the Pug we got new. The Pug has has a fair few issues, too many really.
 

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Nomad, I wouldn't fill my adblue tank with water if I were you soapy or not. Possibly flush with IPA if you can vent it as you can damage seals if you leave IPA on rubber for too long.
It would have to be pretty nasty for me to clean the inside though.
 

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Nomad, I wouldn't fill my adblue tank with water if I were you soapy or not. Possibly flush with IPA if you can vent it as you can damage seals if you leave IPA on rubber for too long.
It would have to be pretty nasty for me to clean the inside though.
Thanks BM

Not soapy or IPA. Just mildly warm water as the suggestion is that the adblue crystallises in the tank/pump. I'll rinse and repeat several times, then let it dry out before refilling with adblue. It has been suggested in this thread that the system can actually run on water for 10-15 mins. Not sure I'd like to do that, (it could kill the cat) but a couple of drips shouldn't matter. I understand adblue is a composition that’s 67.5 percent de-ionised water and 32.5 percent urea. A couple of drops of non-DI water shouldn't hurt, I hope.
 

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Ah nice work, I suggested IPA as it's an amazing cleaner and evaporates easily. Sounds like you have a good plan. Have you modified your cap? I took the o ring off mine and now I can suck a little air through it.
 

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i would not put anything flammamble into urea tank.. it sprays directly at catalyser.
imho-a cup of di water might dilute the already evaporated-crystalized solution of urea.
too diluted adblue should nothing damage, only the nox emissions will be a bit worse.
no tap water, because cat and fap (injector too) can be choked by hard water deposits (look into water kettle, how stubborn it is)
 

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Nomad, this seems like a "French electrics" situation. I think looking for a forum member with decent diagnostics could help you out.
My code reader cost £35 and is VAG specific but will still reset lights, it's also 5 years old.

My wife likes Peugeot but I'm not convinced. I have had zero issues with my almost 20 year old Honda purchased almost the same time as the Pug we got new. The Pug has has a fair few issues, too many really.
I'm happy to spend £12 on one of these OBD2 things. I just don't want to spend that and then find I should have bought the £45 version, or the even £99.

I like my 2008 as a car but there have been too many of these lights coming on and countdowns to a no-start, either for adblue or servicing. They have a bad habit of coming on, literally as I drive off on holiday (last 3 at least). Far enough away from home to not turn back, plus the boot is full and the adblue tank is under it, under the spare wheel. Have you tried finding a garage in the remote highlands of Scotland? Even if you do, they can take 3+ weeks to get the next appointment. I know from experience. I then drive around with flashing lights and LCD screen flashing warnings every time I start-up. At least they usually give 1500 miles to deal with the issue. But the deadline drops every 50 miles so the suspense builds.

I usually top up the adblue myself. But these 10L containers become heavy for me while holding them, as the tank fills slowly. I have devised a system using several wooden 3x2s and a funnel that has a very long nozzle. Needless to say, I don't carry it on holidays. ;)
 

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i would not put anything flammamble into urea tank.. it sprays directly at catalyser.
imho-a cup of di water might dilute the already evaporated-crystalized solution of urea.
too diluted adblue should nothing damage, only the nox emissions will be a bit worse.
no tap water, because cat and fap (injector too) can be choked by hard water deposits (look into water kettle, how stubborn it is)
Thanks HPC3,

Good advice. I live in Central Scotland so the water shouldn't be hard. I don't intend to dilute the adblue with it though. But maybe I'll try a little DI water before anything else.
 

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adblue is 33% solution. if water evaporates it shifts to right.
maybe the solid urea particles in solution are the problem.
50%solution at ~290K (~17C) starts to make solids.
i presume tank will not roast the fluid at 50c , if outside is warm weather (not freezing)
i think adding pure water can help
 

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I am looking for some advice on how to proceed after my local Peugeot dealer investigated the "UREA : Emission fault warning message" and revealed fault code P20E8 00.

They topped up the urea tank (although the dash message still showed more than 1500 miles remaining) and cleared the fault. They said that if the fault message returns I will need a complete new urea tank costing over £1,000 !!

Guess what, 5 miles later the message returned. I went back to the dealer, but no joy. They believe the fault means the pressure of the urea fluid is too low, which means a new complete tank. The car is a Sept 2014 2.0 Bluehdi 150, and so is only a few months out of warranty. It has had all the recalls undertaken including the urea wiring loom.

So, what could be the causes of low pressure. A hole in the tank ? A faulty pump ? A blocked atomiser nozzle ? Are any of these fixable without replacing the entire unit ?

Would any of you know of a specialist who could look at this....other than one of the main dealers ?

Any help and advice would be very welcome. Thanks.
I am looking for some advice on how to proceed after my local Peugeot dealer investigated the "UREA : Emission fault warning message" and revealed fault code P20E8 00.

They topped up the urea tank (although the dash message still showed more than 1500 miles remaining) and cleared the fault. They said that if the fault message returns I will need a complete new urea tank costing over £1,000 !!

Guess what, 5 miles later the message returned. I went back to the dealer, but no joy. They believe the fault means the pressure of the urea fluid is too low, which means a new complete tank. The car is a Sept 2014 2.0 Bluehdi 150, and so is only a few months out of warranty. It has had all the recalls undertaken including the urea wiring loom.

So, what could be the causes of low pressure. A hole in the tank ? A faulty pump ? A blocked atomiser nozzle ? Are any of these fixable without replacing the entire unit ?

Would any of you know of a specialist who could look at this....other than one of the main dealers ?

Any help and advice would be very welcome. Thanks.
Hi. I have just experienced this problem but with only the engine mngmt light on. A garage diagnosed the problem as no adblue being pumped and liaised with the dealer who said the car had the new tank vented cap, said you couldn't buy the pump on its own and quoted £1400 inc labour to replace the tank complete. I took the car home, loosened the cap, started up and the light had gone out. I then took the cap off the tried to suck and blow through the cap with no success. A couple of small holes were drilled thro it as well as the big black dust cover. No more problems to date🙏🏼🤞
 

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I removed the o ring and was able to suck n blow through, bit late for me now. 90k+ miles. I'm worried when I fix this I'll be faced with the next diesel related snag before too long.

Does anyone know the next likely snag or two? EGR valve, turbo about to explode?

I'd be keen to do prentavative maintenance.
 
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