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I was charged £35 a couple of weeks ago to top up my Urea at a dealer. I was expecting the £10 top up, but seems that is no longer around. Will be doing it myself in future
I've always done it myself, £10 or less for 10 litres. Simple to do, and I don't wait till the warning, just top it up from time to time.
 

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Have the same problem on c4 hdi120. Cap replaced by recall, urea fault came up at 100.000km. Since a 1000eur new tank was out of question I experimented for a while. Got a spare "not working" whole tank, described as pressure low-pump faulty. Took the pump assembly apart and back on. And found that it is working normally. It might have just been stuck, and regained proper power after testing it (6 bar pressure) for a while. So i kept it for spare. Since this pump was ok, I suspected the urea injector (being open all the time). Bought one on ebay and kept for spare....due to the fact that i didnt have time to do the repairs on my car. I drove it for some 1000km, deleting urea fault code daily (with cheap OBD reader). Suddenly the urea fault light came off one day by itself! I've driven 3000km since then (2 months) and it never came back. So my idea is: either the pump was stuck/lazy....and i forced it to work....or i forced the injector back to life....or some dirt/urea deposit flushed away. Maybe i was just lucky, maybe the fault will return in colder days.... I suggest anyone not being happy with 1Keur cost to try and improvise (fill the tank, hit the tank with a fist to jerk the pump, hit the injector with some tool etc. Or just try to delete faults a few times.) Maybe you manage to solve the problem for free. Good luck
 

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Just to add to the above post: dont be affraid of getting stuck on the road due to this fault. It has a predictive cycle: if im correct, the error (pressure to low) arises at ignition - if the system doesnt reach 6bar pressure. The light urea comes on once proper catalyst temperature has been reached. After some time the code becomes confirmed and displays itself as engine fault light. And then you have another 50km to drive before the immobilizator light (starting prevented in 500km) comes on. So you can delete the code every 50km and never get the 500km to start prevented warning. Or you can wait and delete the latter....and keep driving forever! ;-) However, after 50km you will start to smell the exhaust....and pollute the environment of course....
 

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Update: had error codes U029E and P20E8 deleted after running the car hard (put on manual gear position and keeping the engine revs above 3k rpm while driving on highway) with the urea tank cap unscrewed but left on. Was able to get the car working fine but with start/ stop not working possibly due to U029E still present or NOX adaptation not completed after replacement.
No EML or Emissions/ Engine fault warning for around 300+km.
When doing actuator test for urea pump, could hear pump working normally with constant whirring sound heard from the front seats. Regret not having done Nox adaptation then because I wasn't familiar with Diagbox.
Now after the codes came back and I tried testing the pump, it makes very faint tick sounds when near the urea tank. Analysing the fault on diagbox seems to indicate pump inhibited due to urea level reading despite topping 10l of urea.
My car has had a new urea tank in 2017 and the new cap with the wiring harness just replaced 2 months ago. Someone in the forum mentioned the harness was for the issue with incorrect level reading of the urea. It was also stated that urea corrodes metal and the latest generation (possibly 5th gen) tank has mostly plastic internals to solve all known issues and should be out in January 2020.
Could be the urea level sender is metal and isn't doing its job right causing this issue along with all other issues with the design causing confusion about what's going on with the car. As someone mentioned, the Nox error is possibly due to the urea fault disabling communication with the Nox. 20191216_211819.jpg 20191216_194804.jpg 20191216_193838.jpg 20191216_211819.jpg 20191216_194804.jpg 20191216_193838.jpg 20191216_192524.jpg 20191216_193923.jpg
 

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Hi There

New here to the Forum. I've now had more urea tanks than I have had Peugeots...one Peugeot 3 tanks
I've a Jan 2015 308SW Allure 1.6TDI Blue 120. It's at 44,000miles. Bought October 2017 at 17000miles.

I had a recall on the car which I seem to recall was the Urea Cap. Have never looked at it before, so don't know what the original one was like but I think all subsequent ones were the light blue cap with the white centre on the top.

That must have been something like March 2018.

June 2018, started getting engine warning lamps and eventually the Adblue lights coming on. The Dealer struggled to find it initially, but eventually did and the tank was changed within the warranty that I had bought when I got it. Was told whole price was £1300, but I would only pay £200. Car must have had about 23000 to 25000miles on it.

December 2019. Light comes on again and the garage concludes that it is a failed NOx sensor, which is again covered by warranty. Within a few days the engine light was back on and this time it was concluded that it was the Urea tank. Possibly the NOx sensor was reading the result of the Uea tank not working. Again covered by the warranty. This time the price was £1100, all covered by the warranty - me thinks someone mught have been trying it on the first time.

So I guess my question is this.

Has anyone else had to replace the tank twice? The Service manager said he had never seen that happen before - but he might well say that.

Looking at the thread here, I wonder if the first time the tank was replaced was perhaps too early for the 'improved tank to be available', and perhaps it was an old design tank that was used, so hopefully the new version is now in.

That said the tank fitted in June 2018, and the one fitted in Dec 2019 both have the same filler cap - light blue with white dot.

I just don't want to be faced with changing an £1100 part as an 18 month service item.

Have thought about getting rid of the car, but for what I will get for it and what I can buy in its place - I'll end up with something with higher mileage and older - I might in effect end up loosing £1100, just by changing


Anyway, anyone know of a car having to get the tank replaced twice?

Cheers
 

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Of course , I know someone who replaced urea tank twice. The 1st tank survived 6 month. The 2nd tank running for 2+ years. Both under warranty. It's rare condition though.


The 1st tank came with new cap so it was probably the newer design.i mean that on June 2018 it was 2nd gen tank for sure. Unless they installed a used one and charged you with £200...
BTW: replacing a cap barely helps.
 

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I appreciate that that this is a long thread starting some 18 months ago and i havent read all the way through but thought i would just add that often when you have an additive fault its not the fault of the additive cap but the fuel cap itself. They often have a small magnet pickup on the side that is detected everytime you replace the cap after a fill up instructing the additive to be injected. These are on vehicles with the PATS fluid, not sure if adblue works the same way.
 

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Irrelevant. AsBlue is separate tank. Cap is plastic and nothing special about it. Problem was that first version of the cap caused the vacuum and pump would die.

Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
 

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Not the most reassuring thread for a new 3008 and AdBlue user. I’ve read through the thread and would be grateful for any advice about whether or not I need to replace the AdBlue cap. My 3008 is a GTLine 1.6 diesel with a 67 plate and first registered in Feb 2018.

View attachment 87821
 

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Attachment is not visible. If you really read trough tread, you would see that people already posted images of the cap. For example:

 

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Attachment is not visible. If you really read trough tread, you would see that people already posted images of the cap. For example:


Sorry, Mara. I realised that I had posted it in the wrong forum as I have a 3008 so I tried to delete this one and repost it there.
 

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Hello all, Im new here but have been reading this thread with interest, I have recently bought a Toyota ProAce van , which is built in France and is a Peugeot Boxer / Citroen Relay with a different badge. Its a Sep 2016 model , 1.6 diesel with the AdBlue Euro6 engine. On leaving the forecourt after test drive , approx 6 miles on my 250 mile journey home , I had the Engine Fault , AdBlue warning , Emissions Fault etc. Van was U turned back to delaership (not a Toyota but an independent), They removed the Adblue injector to clean , as they said it sometimes crystallises , re-set the code and I was on my way again. 15 miles into the journey all the same warning lights came on, Second U turn back to dealership , this time I had a coutesy car to drive home and they booked it in to a Toyota dealership ( it has a 5 year warranty running to Sep 2021). I now have it back home after 2 weeks , many safety recalls completed but NO AdBlue system changes. The Adblue filler cap is the solid Blue , non vented type !! The faul was diagnosed as a P20EE but was rectified by a "de pollution of the denox system""Followed repair manual to clear fault and carried out extended multiple road tests".
I guess my concern is that Toyota have not changed the AdBlue filler cap under a recall....suggesting that the pump in my Adblue tank is on its way out....and that Peugeot have not informed Toyota of the issues....when I asked the dealership of any AdBlue issues , the amswer was 2There are no Recalls / Issues reported on the AdBlue system....Beware the person who suggested buying a Japanses car instead of a French model...they could be built in the same factory !!
 

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Company I work for ( Toyota Material Handling ) has a very large fleet of Proace vans across Europe for the mobile service engineers - the poor reliability issue was such a major concern it went extremely high up between TMH & Toyota automotive.

The UK Toyota dealer technicians dont really have the training knowledge to deal with these wonderful examples of French engineering.

One lad currently holds the record of 75 dealer visits over a 5 year lease period for breakdowns.

Another van was off road for several weeks due to a repeated ESP fault.

Injector faults reported on many Van's with multiple visits to dealer to get a proper fix, dipstick ends snap off, ad blue issues.

Would be nice if Toyota replaced the old Hi Ace with a proper Japanese design.
 

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So here is the paradox: Japanese make excellent petrol engines but can NOT produce a proper diesel engine that will comply with EU regulations. Simply not their expertise.
 

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Hi first what a great post very helpfull

I have the p20e8... P0428... P2033 code

Hi all.

I own a peugeot 208 1.6 blue diseal hdi. It's done 44000 miles.

These issues started over a week ago.

Then they vanished for a two days and no come back on.

I have the emissions fault.... Engine management light is constantly on..... And so is the urea light is also permanent on..

I have had a look around as best I can and can see no underlining issue. I have read numerous messages on these issues.

I did have all the same issues above and the 700 mile countdown last week but took it to my local garage mate and his computer got rid of all the errors. Then 5miles later the errors above came back but no 700 mile count down as of yet.

It's not the cap on the adblue. Had new one fitted by peugeot under recall 2 months ago.


I have tested both oxygen sensors with my multimeter and they seem good.

Can't see if I have a crack in my cat as I haven't had that off the car yet.

More i read more I think it's the ad blue tank pump. Witch means a whole new unit or a new cat job.

Please please any help or ideas that's fixed your issue please help. Im at my lose end

After reading all these post now I'm convinced it's the ad blue pump. Problem is is finding one people tend to sell um with tank. I'm an engineer so more than happy getting the tank off and sorting myself if I get a pump to work it lol

Couple of questions...

Can any peugeot pump fit if it looks the same shape est.

Would I need to drain the tank for removal or would it be possible to leave the ad blue in it just I'm doing it on my drive on axle stands lol so not going to be easy

Any help hints of tricks most appricated thank you all
 

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You do mention if you filled the ad-blue tank up.
If you filled the Adblue up because the warning came on and it stayed on that's a known fault with the 308 at least, mine was modified under warranty to stop that accuring, was I think something to do with the wiring loom.
Also as you say cap was changed to a ventilated one.
 

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Yeah new cap was fitted due to recall. The blue one with the white middle. They also did 3 other recalls at the same time.

Didn't now about that but I have filled the car up before few months back when it told me it was running low and the light went off.

My car is a 208 but the problems the people are having on there 308 are very similiar
 
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