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P207, 2008, 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I have peugeot 207 1.4 petrol 54KW from year 2008 (model 2007). Recently I’ve got check engine light, and when I connected to diagbox this are fault codes I’ve got:

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Is it possible that bad alternator is causing these fault codes and problems?

Alternator is charing battery normally as I can see, can it be malfunction on some “other way”? I’ve also tested all fan speeds with acuator test and they all work. But I noticed fan won’t start when car works/drive for some time. Regarding veiche speed sensor siganl, I didn’t noticed any problems with speed showing.

By the way I have to mention that I have replacment ECU in car since april/may this year and car worked normally since than.

is it possible that I have ECU problems again or alternator can cause something like this?

Thank You and Best Regards 🙂
 

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Hello all,
I have peugeot 207 1.4 petrol 54KW from year 2008 (model 2007). Recently I’ve got check engine light, and when I connected to diagbox this are fault codes I’ve got:

View attachment 102609
View attachment 102611
View attachment 102608
View attachment 102610

Is it possible that bad alternator is causing these fault codes and problems?

Alternator is charing battery normally as I can see, can it be malfunction on some “other way”? I’ve also tested all fan speeds with acuator test and they all work. But I noticed fan won’t start when car works/drive for some time. Regarding veiche speed sensor siganl, I didn’t noticed any problems with speed showing.

By the way I have to mention that I have replacment ECU in car since april/may this year and car worked normally since than.

is it possible that I have ECU problems again or alternator can cause something like this?

Thank You and Best Regards 🙂
I think you alternator may not be charging properly. The alternator Voltage regulation is controlled by the rotor excitation. If there no rotor excitation the alternator will not charge the battery. if you look at your alternator there is probably a small two pin plug. One wire is the rotor excitation connection which is most likely provided by the engine ECU and the other is the charge state monitor. The first thing I would do is make sure this connector is clean and plugged in properly.

Do you own a multimeter? If so I suggest you get someone press the accelerator while you monitor the battery voltage. If the alternator is working you should read about 14 Volts when the engine is running and it will drop to about 12.7V when the engine stops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello Ian thank you for reply,

unfortunately I don’t own a multimeter, but I’ll try to find someone tomorrow to check it for me and get back here with conclusion.

Is it possible that bad alternator is casusing check engine light? And other fault codes too?
 

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The codes you are getting suggest there may be a voltage issue which could be an intermittent alternator problem. The code P0620 is suggesting there is an alternator control issue. As I said this could be due to a bad connection between the alternator and ECU. If you look back over the forum a 207 owner was saying the plug on the back of the alternator wasn't making proper contact. I think you may have a similar problem. I would have look at the back of your alternator. There should be a black two pin plug there make sure this plug is connecting properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for your suggestions Ian. I’ll try to check alternator plugs when I get home.
Yeah car have ABS which works fine. Also I didn’t noticed any problem with showing speed on dashboard or with mileage showing (I’m not sure if thats connected with speed sensor or not).
 

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Thank you for your suggestions Ian. I’ll try to check alternator plugs when I get home.
Yeah car have ABS which works fine. Also I didn’t noticed any problem with showing speed on dashboard or with mileage showing (I’m not sure if thats connected with speed sensor or not).
Okay thanks. There is a diagnostic report about the vehicle speed sensor and the vehicle speed in the diagnostic results was 0 km/hr. However, my understanding the vehicle speed comes from the ABS. There may be a second sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I also read about it that speed info comes from ABS. I guess that this is the sensor connected to ABS
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Only thing which is strange to me that on car dashboard speedometer there is no problem with speed showing. I’ll try to take car for run today while it’s connected to to diagnostic and check live speed there.

I just hope I don’t have to replace ECU again 😕
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello Ian,

just to check before I start, this the alternator right?
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And you were talking about this plug? Or there is some other plug behind/bellow it?
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Thank You
 

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Each wheel has an ABS sensor. it is worth looking at all four but I suspect the sensors are not the issue. I noticed there is also a CAN bus issue. On the 207 the CAN bus comes from the BSI to the ABS then to the engine ECU. Sometimes water and dirt gets into the ABS connector and causes the CAN bus not to work properly. I think you will find the the ABS module above the front left wheel. It will have one large electrical plug and 6 mela brake pipes.

You have identified the correct plug. Make sure it is clean and making good contact.

I would also make sure the battery connection is tight. If you find it loose you must disconnect the battery before trying to tighten it. To disconnect the battery you must follow the 3 minute rule:
Open the bonnet
Open the drivers window for access
Turn everything off and remove the keys
Get out of the car and shut all the door
Wait at least 3 minutes before disconnecting the battery
Many people also recommend that when reconnect the battery that you turn the sidelights on by reaching in from outside the car before opening the door. This is intended to wake the BSI.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all,
Long time no hear, since I don’t have garage and it was raining till today I finally tried to remove and check excitation plug from alternator but with no luck. I don’t know unscrew “connection to battery first or I have to press something to relase plug before pullibg it out.
Does maybe this have to do something with CAN bus or ABS sensors? Located beside battery (lets say above front left wheel)

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Thank You
 

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Hi all,
Long time no hear, since I don’t have garage and it was raining till today I finally tried to remove and check excitation plug from alternator but with no luck. I don’t know unscrew “connection to battery first or I have to press something to relase plug before pullibg it out.
Does maybe this have to do something with CAN bus or ABS sensors? Located beside battery (lets say above front left wheel)

View attachment 102714
Thank You
All automotive electrical connectors have some sort of lock to stop them disconnecting. The connector on the alternator usually has a simple catch-see photos. On my car I am able to put my finger under the catch and lift it while I pull the connector out. Yours looks a bit more difficult. You will need to find a way to lift the catch so you can pull the connector off.

You photo is of the engine compartment fuse box (often called the BSM). I have attached a photo of the 207's ABS that I found on the forum. You need to get underneath the car at the front left side to see it. You can also see the car's front right tyre in the background.

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207 ABS plug you can see the front right tyre in the background. You may need to remove the lining (mud guard) above the wheel to get to it.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All automotive electrical connectors have some sort of lock to stop them disconnecting. The connector on the alternator usually has a simple catch-see photos. On my car I am able to put my finger under the catch and lift it while I pull the connector out. Yours looks a bit more difficult. You will need to find a way to lift the catch so you can pull the connector off.

You photo is of the engine compartment fuse box (often called the BSM). I have attached a photo of the 207's ABS that I found on the forum. You need to get underneath the car at the front left side to see it. You can also see the car's front right tyre in the background.

View attachment 102720
View attachment 102721

207 ABS plug you can see the front right tyre in the background. You may need to remove the lining (mud guard) above the wheel to get to it.

View attachment 102723
Thank You verry much Ian 🙂
Okay I managed to disconnect plug with help of screwdriver and checked for signs of dirt or corrosion but it looks fine to me. Is it possible that there is just one red wire or maybe there should be second (green wire) on that plug?
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I think I’ll need to bring it ti real mechanic next week to check everything and replace alternator or cable between it and ECU if needed and to inspect speed sensor.
 

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The list of faults do seem a bit odd especially the speed sensor fault. The car speed should be coming from the ABS which has four sensors and if one of those was faulty you would get a ABS fault code. The ABS communicates to the BSI and engine ECU via the main CAN bus (CAN-IS). Itis wired in such a way that if you unplug the ABS it disconnects the CAN bus between the BSI and engine ECU. Water and dirt in the ABS plug is known cause problem on the CAN bus so the plug is worth checking.

The other thing to check is the engine compartment earths especially MC10. I have attached some diagrams. I have also attached a photo from another car where one wire to MC10 was disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tahank You Foxie and Ian.
I print those and ask mechanic to check them. I’m just afraid it’s not failty ECU again, since it was changed about 6 months ago due to a water from the coolant system in the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It’s me again, got little update since last post.
So car was at mechanic and he checked MC10 which is ok and not disconnected. Mesaring alternator with multimeter was fine, but when he connected car to diagnostic and monitors alternator voltage for 10-15min, voltage was at 14.5V-14.6V most of the time, but sometimes it was spiking up to 18V. So I got new alternator yesterday.
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Took car home, it was 7-8min ride. This morning I went to work (12-13km ride) with it and everything was fine. And later on my ride ride back home
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Shen I arrived home I have connected it diagbox and saw same faults as before alternator replacment.
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Now I really starting to suspect that I havr failty ECU again. If I buy virginized ECU and replace it by my self, would I be able to program it without some chip reader tools etc. just with Lexia cable and diagbox? Or if I buy nonvirginized ECU, would I be able to virginize it by my self?

Thank you in advance!
 

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It is likely that the mechanic didn't clear the faults when he changed the alternator. Run the global scan again and read each fault and then clear it. If you try to clear the fault without reading it Diagbox will tell you to read it first.

You need specialist equipment and software to virginise an engine ECU. Some methods involve removing the EEPROM and rewriting it. If you find the ECU is faulty there are companies that can repair them and there are others that will take your ECU and give you a replacement cloned version.

To program a virginised ECU you need to know the car's PIN. A credit card size card was supplied with the 207 handbook when new. This card has the PIN printed on it but most owners lose these. The simplest way to get the PIN is to visit a Peugeot dealer. If you get a cloned ECU you will not have this problem.

Here is an example of a company that supplies ECUs. They may not have the correct ECU for you car you need to check the ECU label. Their option 2e is the best
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hmm I think he cleared codes because there was no check engine light for one and a half day. He don’t have lexia and diagbox because he use some muti diag obd scanner and tablet (dont know which vendor).
Is there a diffrence deleting fault codes with diagnostic tool like that and lexia+diagbox?
I’ll try to do global scan tomorrow and delete fault codes, then take it for few runs around the city and hope check engine wont show up again because car really run normally and I don’t understand what can be wrong with it.

Btw thank you for explaining nonvirginized/virginized ECUs to me. 🙂
 
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