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Discussion Starter #1
History of fault...

Bought the car (307sw se 110) just over a year ago, one of the optional extras included was the "risk of particle filter clogging" on the mfd.

I ran a scan with a Bluetooth elm reader at the time which returned P1351.

Had limp mode and EML 3 days later, which cleared itself after sitting for 2 days (went camping, didn't use the car). That hasn't returned, risk of clogging has never left...

Today, connected diagbox and P1351 is still present (as are a couple of other things, but one at a time).

So, the glow plug relay - am I correct that it's the square one on the front of the ECU housing?

If so, there are 8 wires:

2 large ones (constant 12V and ground?)
2 skinny ones (relay control/monitoring?)
4 medium ones (heater plugs?)

Assuming this is correct, on the ones that I think go to the plugs I get the following resistance readings to ground:

0.33 k ohms
5.5 k ohms
Open circuit
Open circuit

Glow plugs are shot, right?

Well, or the wires - but I can't get to the other end without getting to the plugs anyway.


Soooo, will replacing the plugs shift P1351?

Is there a way of physically testing the relay and feed circuit too?

I'm perfectly happy poking my meter at stuff, so any pointers to the operation method of the relay (when it's supposed to be active, which is the signal wire, etc.) would be welcome.

Oh, and live reading of the dpf shows 35% load, with 0mbar differential on idle, rising to 20mbar @ roughly 2.5krpm - so hopefully that seems alright?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Best way is meter glow plugs direct but if I were you I would just buy some anyway and replace as they're probably goosed and other 2 might not be far behind
Well, with the readings I got (if they're accurate and not a wiring fault) I'd say all 4 are dodo chasing ;)

I always worked on 0.5-5 ohms being acceptable in most cases - so to have 2x infinite, 1x 330ohms and 1x 5500ohms doesn't bode well...

Getting to them to read directly is the issue right now though - there's a fair bit of plastic 'twixt them and me, and even then it'll probably be a test of my gynaecological skills to probe them.

I'm just hoping my luck holds enough that I don't find the two open circuit ones are snapped off in the head and left disconnected :rolleyes:
 

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Well, with the readings I got (if they're accurate and not a wiring fault) I'd say all 4 are dodo chasing ;)

I always worked on 0.5-5 ohms being acceptable in most cases - so to have 2x infinite, 1x 330ohms and 1x 5500ohms doesn't bode well...

Getting to them to read directly is the issue right now though - there's a fair bit of plastic 'twixt them and me, and even then it'll probably be a test of my gynaecological skills to probe them.

I'm just hoping my luck holds enough that I don't find the two open circuit ones are snapped off in the head and left disconnected :rolleyes:
Snapped ouch there's always that possibility
 

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Glowplugs

It is easy to test the plugs without going near them, just remove the glowplug relay, then with a multimeter with one lead to negative test the 4 connections which go to each plug, they should read very low resistance they always go open circuit or very high resistance.

With some engines it's impossible to replace them all without major surgery, just replace the ones you can reach. Always use a long 8 mm socket with a swivel joint attached to an extension on your wrench. Warm the engine for 15 mins before removal, remove the leads with a small hook, a magnet will help removal of the plugs. Be very careful not tor snap the plug on removal if you seem to be applying excessive force to remove stop it's very expensive if you snap them...

:eek:


Cheers Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is easy to test the plugs without going near them, just remove the glowplug relay, then with a multimeter with one lead to negative test the 4 connections which go to each plug, they should read very low resistance they always go open circuit or very high resistance.

With some engines it's impossible to replace them all without major surgery, just replace the ones you can reach. Always use a long 8 mm socket with a swivel joint attached to an extension on your wrench. Warm the engine for 15 mins before removal, remove the leads with a small hook, a magnet will help removal of the plugs. Be very careful not tor snap the plug on removal if you seem to be applying excessive force to remove stop it's very expensive if you snap them...

:eek:


Cheers Tony
That's exactly how I tested them - but because I can't actually see the plugs it's not fully conclusive, the wire(s) could be broken or disconnected for all I currently know...

I've dealt with snapped plugs before - it's not expensive if you do it yourself, but it's a time consuming hassle I don't currently need if I'm honest. I have much more important/fun things to do instead ;)

Oh, and I've had one fail short circuit before and melt the feed wire - it can happen, but it's uncommon.


The bit I didn't / don't know is whether simply replacing the plugs will allow the fault code to clear. Also whether not replacing all 4 would cause the fault to remain - I don't know what the ECU actually monitors in relation to the plug load.
 

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glowplug testing

Sounds like you have already done the testing, your glowplugs are faulty, the chance that all the wires are open circuit at the same time is frankly nil. Unless someone has cut them..

The P1351 will set if even one plug reads open. However I found that when all are open it will not start easily below 0 degree C.

Cheers Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like you have already done the testing, your glowplugs are faulty, the chance that all the wires are open circuit at the same time is frankly nil. Unless someone has cut them..
Yeah, or snapped the plugs during a previous change attempt and just ignored it...

Plan for the worst - that way if you get the best it's a lovely surprise :lol:

The P1351 will set if even one plug reads open. However I found that when all are open it will not start easily below 0 degree C.
Cheers, I'd aim to do all 4 anyway, but confirmation that one will throw a code is useful.
 
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