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Hi,

New to Peugeots and have a problem with my Girlfriends 207.

Its a 2008 1.4 16 valve engine code EP3 8FS.

Long story short, we had to fit a second hand engine as the timing chain tensioner had come lose and a compression test showed low compression on cylinder one.

New engine has been fitted and timed up but thrown up two fault codes P0014 and P11A8. I've swapped over the Exhaust solenoid from the old engines and both codes still come up. Ive tried the intake solenoid as well but car still runs the same but not had time to check codes again.

When you start the car it idles very lumpy, almost stalling. If you hold the revs at say 1500 for about 5 seconds they jump up to about 2500 without pressing the pedal any further and then the car idles fine and drives fine apart from running a bit rich by the smell of petrol.

Ive read on 2 other posts about resetting engine adaptions or performing a relearn procedure cured this fault? I Called the local Peugeot garage and they didn't know what i was on about.

If it turns out to be the dephaser itself, seeing as it wasn't an issue on the previous engine i could swap the parts over, just not sure how big a job that is, are we talking timing chain off etc.

Any advise would be very grateful.
 

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could be the dephaser pulley, have read they can get stiff to turn, you wont need to remove the whole chain, from memory cam cover, throttle body and possibly engine mount so will need to hold the engine on a jack.
unscrew the tensioner and make sure its still firm to press, undo the exhaust dephaser and tie the chain up tight, clean mating faces and replace.
use a new bolt as they are stretch.
you will need to lock the engine, i also locked the pulleys with a wedge of soft wood as the dephaser wants to rotate a little (side dependant)
 

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The reset adaptation is in the repair menu in diagbox. Surprised dealer knows nothing about it as if you change any major parts in the VTI system or even do some actuator tests, it prompts you to reset adaptations as part of the process.

The key requirement is that you start it from cold, not touching throttle pedal with A/C and all other loads off, leave car to warm up (until fans switch on) then drive the car normally but at some point take revs to over 4000 then let the car over run (take foot throttle and let the car slow down without using brakes or throttle until revs are down to less than 1000 rpm) then drive normally again

I believe there is also a manual way starting the process to do with holding brake pedal down when starting, but i cannot remember the full process. I know that when my daughters old 207 had a dodgy brake switch it kept trying to reset the system and as she did not know and just drove it when cold it caused major issues with it stalling when cold and poor idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The reset adaptation is in the repair menu in diagbox. Surprised dealer knows nothing about it as if you change any major parts in the VTI system or even do some actuator tests, it prompts you to reset adaptations as part of the process.

The key requirement is that you start it from cold, not touching throttle pedal with A/C and all other loads off, leave car to warm up (until fans switch on) then drive the car normally but at some point take revs to over 4000 then let the car over run (take foot throttle and let the car slow down with using brakes or throttle until revs are down to less than 1000 rpm) then drive normally again

I believe there is also a manual way starting the process to do with holding brake pedal down when starting, but i cannot remember the full process. I know that when my daughters old 207 had a dodgy brake switch it kept trying to reset the system and as she did not know and just drove it when cold it caused major issues with it stalling when cold and poor idle.
Wasn't really a dealership, just a local garage but thankfully a friend from school does engine remaps and he was able to do the exact procedure you just described.

Cars starting and idling perfect now, took it for a test drive, everything spot on but did notice a bit of hesitation the next time i drove it which its not done before. So just need to keep an eye on that.

What has annoyed me is the local Peugeot dealership.told them we had fitted a new engine and camshaft solenoid and had heard about resetting adaptations and they didn't know what i was on about. Most probably trying to get me to pay for them to do the diagnostics as well even after giving them the P codes.
 

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It will update new base settings over the next few journeys which should smooth things out
 

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It will update new base settings over the next few journeys which should smooth things out
Think i spoke too soon. Just drove onto a roundabout, massive hesitation, kangarooing unit the revs finally picked up and EML has come back on. Took it up the road and its seemed to settle down but i could still feel some slight hesitation. Wont be able to see what codes its thrown up for a few days as my mate with the diagnostic kit is away.

Gutted.
 

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check the chain tensioner, if its gone weak it can slap the chain around and break the plastic chain guides.

spent ages messing around with camshaft codes, in the end i swapped out the chain, thats when i found the guides cracked and broken at the bottom down by the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
check the chain tensioner, if its gone weak it can slap the chain around and break the plastic chain guides.

spent ages messing around with camshaft codes, in the end i swapped out the chain, thats when i found the guides cracked and broken at the bottom down by the crank.
Ive got a brand new tensioner on the old engine from when we trying to sort that out. Im guessing its not a straight forward job of just unscrewing it and replacing it with another one though.

The new engine has been timed up though and was running fine before we did the relearn process, need to get the codes up and see what its saying first, well i say running fine but im assuming that before the relearn process it was running a default map due to the EML light being on, its just a bloody nightmare.
 

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Car went into limp mode earlier. Got it home and checked the solenoid again and it was clogged. Cleaned and refitted and ran fine again. No hesitation or missing. It seems to be clogged with gunky oil rather than metal filings.

If the 2nd hand engine had been standing a while I'm guessing some oil might have dried up. Is there any way to go about cleaning this out?
 

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wow that looks excessive, could be its had a flush last oil change or run with oil additive. i would just keep cleaning and changing oil/filter for now.
 
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