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Discussion Starter #1
Mine is a 1.6L Petrol Engine (TU5JP4) and 4-speed AT (AL4) manufactured in 2011.. It started having overheating problem after I went for automatic gear transmission fluid change especially in traffic.

Got worse over weekend when the temp gauge went red and indicated STOP. I noticed coolant was boiling and escaping from the coolant reservoir tank. I waited a while, bleed and filled coolant but the top radiator hose and AC return hoses ruptured before I could drive for 15 minutes and car overheated again.

Call mechanic and he recommended replacing:
1. Radiator
2. Water Pump
3 Head Gasket
4. Thermostat Housing
5. Timing Belt
5 Radiator Hose
5. AC Return Hose, flushing and gas

Dear Peu 307 enthusiats, have you had a similar experience? What fix worked?. Will my 307 be top-notch again?
 

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What have the people who did the work on the oil change got to say? As they were the last people to fettle with the car have they damaged something in the process to cause this I wonder, i.e rad or hose comes to mind!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks, @madbadandold: the checked their work and said they did not damage anything. I am a bit confused now going by the number of items proposed to be replaced. Would appreciate if any experience, idea or thoughts are shared.
 

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He is just covering himself by suggesting all parts of the system are replaced. There are various checks that can be done to ascertain the extent of the damage. Any signs of oil/water mix in rad and hoses and oil? A compression check of the engine can show a head gasket gone as well as tests on the coolant water. The water pump can be checked for bearing wear/failure by removing the belt and seeing if the pulley has any sloppy movement side to side/up and down. Spin it to see if I makes a noise. Remove the thermostat and check it opens with a pan of water and a thermometer. Leave it out and fit new hoses and refill with clean water. Run the engine up to temp and see what results you get. If all Ok then drain and refill with correct anti-freeze and replace stat with original if tests ok or new one not forgetting to replace the seal would be my advice.
 

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To add to that when it has got to temp and both hoses are showing flow check the rad core to see if it has hot/cold areas. Actually I would remove rad and give it a good water flush in both directions as well as blowing air through the air matrix. With it off I would also flush the engine block with water too in both directions in case there is a blockage in the galleries.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Many thanks, @madbadandold: I would give this three way flush a try: radiator, engine block and air matrix. I shall do this before I embark on expensive parts replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update 1:

I have flushed the radiator and the engine both ways as suggested. A bit of improvement as it now takes an average of about 20 minutes in traffic for the "Stop" message to appear on the dash.

@madbadandold : kindly confirm is the image in the following link (Peugeot 307 aircon heater matrix | eBay) what you referred to as Air Matrix?

If Yes, there may a light at the end of this tunnel. Please confirm..
 

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The radiators fins is what I meant which can get blocked with insects and damaged if touched inadvertently when working around the engine. Did you check for cold points on the rad when it was still hot after a run?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The radiators fins is what I meant which can get blocked with insects and damaged if touched inadvertently when working around the engine. Did you check for cold points on the rad when it was still hot after a run?
Many thanks for this clarification: The radiator fins are clean. I did check the cold points on the radiator and they seem fine except the 15mm pipe cooling the AL4 autogear box which was lukewarm.

Thanks for the interest and suggestions.
 

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Hii...sorry ask..but have you checked the thermostat yet..'mad' did mention it a few post ago but you have'nt confirmed...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hii...sorry ask..but have you checked the thermostat yet..'mad' did mention it a few post ago but you have'nt confirmed...
Hi @noddy-hol: we removed the thermostat when this overheating started but the car still does overheating.
The goal would be to reinstall the thermostat once we have a solid diagnosis.
Many thanks for helping.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update 2:

@madbadandold , @noddy-hol and all observers:

Our investigations found the water pump as the culprit. All its fins gone.
We replaced the water pump, head gasket(with paper type because of chopped gasket), timing belt and replaced the thermostat.
Fan picks up when dash temp gets slightly above 90 deg and has not gone beyond that.
Concerns: There is slight increase in coolant level in the reservoir tank after each drive; we have bled but that still happens - any suggestions or information, please.
 

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That is strange more rather than less coolant! Give it time to settle down before panicking to see if it settles itself. The head gasket sentence is a bit confusing1 can you elaborate as to what was paper and what was chopped up?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Many thanks @madbadandold for the interest and follow through. We could not surface the top cylinder uniformly because a side was badly worn hence we decided to use paper head gasket.

What are your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We noticed there was an unevenness on the top cylinder during surfacing. Hence, we reckon the MLS head gasket could not work so we used a paper type instead of MLS.
 
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