Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Just joined today in the hope that someone can help with a problem on my 207 1.4 Vti 2007.
it has an oil leak that is quite severe I think I've identified that it's coming from below the silver cover identified in the photo, I have no idea what this is, maybe something to do with the camshaft?
The oil drips down the engine and lands on the exhaust causing a constant burning smell when running.
Does anyone know if this is an easy fix, is it a gasket or o-ring that'll need replacing?
Thanks


Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,290 Posts
if its the part at signalled with the blue line, its the vacuum pump, that runs pressure to the brake servo, its ran off the exhaust camshaft.

should be a simple fix with the seals for it replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Nice one, thanks, couldn't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual but now I can get the seals ordered.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Nice one, thanks, couldn't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual but now I can get the seals ordered.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
you may find its coming from the camshaft cover gasket, seem to remember thats one area where you are advised to add a little liquid gasket.
Is that also known as the rocker cover gasket as had that done 1st but it still leaked?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
869 Posts
clean it all off and try and pinpoint the leak, this engine has the same kind of setup, notice the added liquid gasket at 12.45. I just use the £5 halfords stuff never had a problem, although i do put more on than the vid.
rule out this first.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I have an oil leak from around the alternator area - had the rocker cover gasket done and the cam shaft seals (mechanic told me it was leaking from here). This has not stopped the leak or it had more than one in the first place.

Anyone else think I should change the crankshaft seal before doing the head gasket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Head Gasket?

But is not that the Exhaust inlet manifold - in which case its likely the Cylinder Head Gasket - a common fault - I have a similar oil leak.
Whats the coolant like - whats the oil in crackcase cap like? any mayo?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Mine is in the same place from what I can see. It’s leaking from behind the plastic cover onto the metal platform area.

Did think it was the crankshaft seal but I know it probably is the cylinder head gasket. No mayo on filler cap and water is orange so maybe just gasket failed leaving oil leaking to air?

I’ve already had the cam shaft seals done along with the belts and water pump.

Added some my car photos.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Yeah my compression is good

My compression seems good, engine definitely runs ok, but I have a anti pollution sensor fault, and my coolant is slightly dirty looking as per yours. So its oil maybe a little water mixing with the compression gases slightly? And likely exhaust gas mixing with the coolant.

I am doing my head gasket, because I am upto my eyes in the damm car anyway! But I would definately try SteelSeal for £20-£30 - got to find out what type of anti freeze the car runs on first though!


The 207 runs an orange antifreeze ; Proccor TM108/Glysantin G33 coolant or Revkogel 2000. It doesn't run the standard blue (etheyne Gycol) stuff.
You would have to drain the coolant and add water to run SteelSeal. https://www.steelseal.com/how-to-use-faqs/

NOTE (weeks later) : For anyone else reading this thread after i'm dead. Because the coolant is unaffected and its a high pressure oilway which is always the fault with these engines, K-Seal or Steelseal will NOT cure the oil leak!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
If your going to run the car, you have to get rid of the contaminated coolant and flush it and replace it with water or the sludge may block up the cooling system. That's what I plan to do till I get the new cylinder head gasket and bolts. Lucky It's summer so it doesnt matter for months.

[Note : I found later my coolant was old, and it's normal to look like that (it loses its fluorescence) and there was barely anything wrong with it when I drained the system - barely any oil]
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
If your going to run the car, you have to get rid of the contaminated coolant and flush it and replace it with water or the sludge may block up the cooling system. That's what I plan to do till I get the new cylinder head gasket and bolts. Lucky It's summer so it doesnt matter for months.

Thanks for the heads up on the coolant - will change it asap - despite the fact car does not get used much only short runs here and there - make sense to stop the coolant from blocking up.

Have you done a cylinder head gasket on your car previously then?.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Looks pretty straightforward apart from being lots to do.

We will need torque values for the head bolts etc

When are you planning to do yours anytime soon?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Within the next 2 weeks...

Will have to do it sooner rather than later - after running the engine on idle it seems to 'hunt' and is unstable so is misfiring.
Have to sort out the faulty ABS unit first, a separate nightmare, but have today ordered a (unbranded) ebay head gasket kit for £51 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201588769655) [I later found this to be a mistake because the oil seals are of low quality and are impossible to fit] and will buy the (branded) Cylinder head bolts for £13.
Have ordered a Gates timing belt kit as well for £43 as I have no idea when the timing belt was last done (the car is 2006 and over 80,000 miles). Bought the water pump separate for around £15 because its cheaper that way.

My guess is there is a design flaw in the engine which is why it keeps blowing at the top right corner. It would atseem to me its a coolant problem or oil problem which causes it to blow. Perhaps the 1980s engine and fibre type gasket rots with the more modern orange coolant? I was thinking of getting the head skimmed and looking for a MLS head gasket for it, but I'll see how it goes!

Debating if I will spend the extra £13 on a branded head gasket, will look at reports of the ebay kit. Some people on here have spend on quality branded head gaskets only to have them blow again in 6 months, because it seems of the inherant flawed design of the engine (coolant problems?) or more likely their head block had in fact warped a few thousands of a inch out of flatness, and they didn't get the head block skimmed.

Maybe its worth buying a Straight edge ruler.

Anyway will keep this updated!

In fact you probably only need the head gasket and new bolts. The other gaskets, inlet manifold, rubber crankcase gasket etc... are likely reuseable.

Update:
From reading the 'french car forum' ...It is a high pressure oil way which always blows on these TU/ET engines on the driver side. There is an elastin layer on the gasket O-ring which breaks down around the oilway over time and it leaks into the composite fibre and then out the drivers side.

People are saying the Head gasket generally lasts 30,000 miles of city driving, or 60,000 motorway before the oil leak shows up again. Many complaining it lasts only 2-3 years from a head gasket change, and call it the 'standard oil leak' for a 207 or similar TU/ET engine cars.

In my 207's service history it had a engine failure at 34,000 miles when it simply seized up when driving, maybe the timing belt snapped or something else happened. The previous owner then had Peugeot pay for a engine rebuild because it was only a few years old, which means a new head gasket would have been fitted. That head gasket has now failed at around 90K, which means it has done around 56K on that head gasket before the oil leak appeared.

In my case it was spraying oil into the alternator and timing belt area, there was a little oil on the timing belt belt, but loads on the inner timing belt cover. That could have been catastrophic as its a 16V inference engine, and a timing belt slip or snapped due to oil could instantly mangle the engine, with the valves hitting the piston crowns, and potentially you lose control when going at any speed - say on the middle lane of a buzy motorway with a 50 ton lorry 2 seconds behind you at 70MPH. Ancillary Drive belt was also covered in oil. It will not usually affect coolant apart from trace amounts.

Block and cylinder head not warped at all from hundreds of miles of driving with t this oil leak. Under 0.05mm flatness when I tested with a straight edge.

Unfortunately cannot find a supplier of a multi layered steel (MLS) gasket of the correct thickness (1.3-4mm) with a oil way shim for the ET3J4 engine which would solve the problem for good.

Another 'solution' for this was applying epoxy or gorrilla glue around the edge of where the head gasket leaks. This will not solve it, as the leak will simply move through the composite fibre to another low pressure area, but might redirect the oil leak to where it will do less potentially catastrophic damage.

If you have a 16V interference engine you have to have the head gasket changed IMO.
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top