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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings

My '08 307 1.6 bioflex has been running fine in the two years I've owned it, now at 198,000km

Yesterday I turned the key and the starter motor turned, but she didn't fire. I assumed flat battery. Checked it with multi-meter and got 12.7v. Tried jumping but result was the same. Took the old battery to the shop and their battery tester said >75%, should be fine. Installed brand new battery anyway, and after a few tries it turned over and ran for half a second and then died. Other than that, all the same result. No warning light, and other instruments read normal when ignition key turned to 'on'.

Fuses under the hood are all OK (I read it could be the 40a fuse).

After checking all the fuses (and replacing the blown 20a headlight fuse that I knew about...) the dash display lights no longer work (for odometer, fuel gauge etc.).

I connected my OBD2 and the only fault code was "Fan assembly high speed command fault DTC Status Permanent".

When the car started and ran for a moment, it was reminiscent of my NIssan X-Trail when the Mass Air Flow sensor was faulty. But I haven't been able to repeat that trick.

Haven't tried any BSI reset. Beep test all OK (chimes when key left in igniton).

Anyone have suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

dajg
 

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I take it it is a petrol engine. Engine full details always helps as not all members know all types of names/codes they give the model range. So I assume there is fuel enough in the tank. Checking a battery for voltage only does not mean it is okay. What needs to be checked is its cranking amperes as it is that what does the work. A load test meter is needed for that but as you have put a new fully charged battery on the car we can for now assume that the supply is good. Where about are you as some cars have inline fuel filters if it is used in areas where fuel supplies are suspect as it sounds like a fuel problem? Access to the tank pump is from under the rear seat and it might be worth while checking if that runs when you turn the ignition on as a start of the diagnosis process.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Petrol. Half a tank in there.

No fuel filter. Built for the Swedish market - never had one.

Haven't tried to clutch/bump start it yet (no parking at the bottom of the hill in the event it doesn't go). I wanted to rule-out starter motor as this was suggested elsewhere on this forum.

Will try check for fuel pump sound, and plug in OBD2 reader and see if that gives me a pressure reading.
 

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OK sounds like a good plan. The starter motor is a pain to do unless you have three arms and narrow shoulders especially when refitting. I used a block of wood jammed at the end of the casing and structure to hold it in place to get the one easy bolt in. The other two are difficult one being "blind" and that is doubly awkward as a earth cable is fitted to a threaded extension on the head of the bolt. The third bolt is on the gearbox side and is difficult to see and get to. Would be a lot easier if you have a garage type ramp but I was having to lie on my back!
 

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You wont get a pressure reading for petrol cars as there is no sensor
Fan fault would not stop starting
Fault is most likely wiring or something purely mechanical so fault reader wont help much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had someone turn the ignition key after I pulled out the rear seats, so I could try listen for the fuel pump clicking, but heard nothing.

So I push-started it. All the instrument lights came back on and it was running.

The engine warning triangle was going on and off every few minutes as did the "STOP" warning.

I left it running to bring the temperature up so I could see if the fan started - which it did not. The OBD2 reader said the fan relay was OK though.

After running for 10 minutes I turned it off, and then started again with the key and it fired up fine, although the fan hasn't come on.

So I guess fuel system and starter are fine, and I need to try find a wiring problem with the fan. Any suggestions on where to start?

How far / long do you reckon I can drive it before it overheats? Ambient is around 10 degrees. Thinking of just taking it to an auto-electrician.
 

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The fan is not essential in as much as it WONT overheat without it you can drive around the world without a working fan engines dont overheat in normal use fans are there for extreme circumstances in normal day to day use it will be fine if it does get hot turn your internal heater on full to draw some heat out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks reliable406.

I turned the car off when the OBD2 reader said coolant temperature was 80 C. At what temperature should the fan kick in? Same as thermostat? (94-ish?)

Haven't really solved my "not starting" problem though.
 

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The fan relays and wiring are behind the grill. Front bumper needs to come off to access.Whilst in there you can slave in a 12v feed direct to the fan to see if it actually runs. If it does then the control side of the circuit is at fault. Either relays or wiring. My 1.4 HDI had a problem and after I worked out the circuitry and checked the relays I found the feed wire to the fan open circuit open circuit.. I traced to at which point the cable was snapped and repaired it. But in my case although it was stuck in limp mode this was not the cause it was just that I was working through all the systems that I thought might cause it that I found it.
 
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