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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. Noob here.

A little background before I launch into my problems! I'm not entirely new to peugeots, having hd a 306 1.9td years ago. I normally drive an Audi A8 4.2 TDi but a couple of weeks ago one of the timing chains snapped and wrecked the engine - which I'm hoping to fix still... I still have three years left to pay for the thing!

As I live out in the Scottish highlands and travel 30 odd miles to work every day I needed another car to tide me over until I have fixed the Audi, which will likely take me months and months to do. So I bought myself a 2005 407 2.0HDi saloon. Body work is in excellent condition as is the interior although the electrics are typically french.

The day after I bought it, the screen started working and showed a DPF additive low fault. So £100ish notes lighter I got the fluid and filled it up (although the message still needs cleared). The heater is stuck on "temperature of the sun" and cant be turned down (set to 14 degrees).

Six days after buying it I went round a bend at 60mph and suddenly started spinning all over the place amid a shower of sparks and flew into a field. the fornt drivers side suspension had completely collapsed. The PO had replaced the hub but the garage hadn't put a nut on the bolt that attaches everything to the bottom link and it had worked its way out.

Luckily I was relatively close to home so stuck a chain on the tow bar and dragged it to a place I could work on it in relatively shallow mud compared to where it came to a rest! The top link of the suspension was twisted, the drive shaft had been pulled out and the ball/roller things in the inner joint were spread about the countryside. Anti roll bar link was snapped and the track rod end was bent.

Eventually I managed to get the suspension kind on back together but because of the twist in the top link I couldnt get both holes to line up in the bottom link. As a temporary measure I managed to hammer in a piece of metal into one hole. the inner joint went back together minus the innards but still drove so i was able to get it home driving very very slowly.

I bought a whole new top link/alloy casting, new nut and bolt for the bottom, new ARB link and new TRE and a new driveshaft.

As soon as I started working on it, it started blowing a blizzard! Got the top bits all changed over but I can't get the inner section of the driveshaft out. I have removed the c shaped bearing retainer but I cant get it to budge. Has anyone got any suggestions?

I did try to lever it with a crowbar but discovered that there was a plastic flange attaching a coolant hose to the block. I discovered it when all the coolant dropped onto the drive! Does anyone have a picture or part number for this flange? Its a plastic bit that bolts on to the block behind and slightly above the crank pulley to the rear of the engine just above the bracket that holds the bearing for the driveshaft.

It's looking like another week of taking the bus. Not too much of a problem except the nearest bus stop is a four mile walk down a 1:4 snow covered hill!

If you made it this far well done and thanks for reading!

Gill
 

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Hi guys. Noob here.

A little background before I launch into my problems! I'm not entirely new to peugeots, having hd a 306 1.9td years ago. I normally drive an Audi A8 4.2 TDi but a couple of weeks ago one of the timing chains snapped and wrecked the engine - which I'm hoping to fix still... I still have three years left to pay for the thing!

As I live out in the Scottish highlands and travel 30 odd miles to work every day I needed another car to tide me over until I have fixed the Audi, which will likely take me months and months to do. So I bought myself a 2005 407 2.0HDi saloon. Body work is in excellent condition as is the interior although the electrics are typically french.

The day after I bought it, the screen started working and showed a DPF additive low fault. So £100ish notes lighter I got the fluid and filled it up (although the message still needs cleared). The heater is stuck on "temperature of the sun" and cant be turned down (set to 14 degrees).

Six days after buying it I went round a bend at 60mph and suddenly started spinning all over the place amid a shower of sparks and flew into a field. the fornt drivers side suspension had completely collapsed. The PO had replaced the hub but the garage hadn't put a nut on the bolt that attaches everything to the bottom link and it had worked its way out.

Luckily I was relatively close to home so stuck a chain on the tow bar and dragged it to a place I could work on it in relatively shallow mud compared to where it came to a rest! The top link of the suspension was twisted, the drive shaft had been pulled out and the ball/roller things in the inner joint were spread about the countryside. Anti roll bar link was snapped and the track rod end was bent.

Eventually I managed to get the suspension kind on back together but because of the twist in the top link I couldnt get both holes to line up in the bottom link. As a temporary measure I managed to hammer in a piece of metal into one hole. the inner joint went back together minus the innards but still drove so i was able to get it home driving very very slowly.

I bought a whole new top link/alloy casting, new nut and bolt for the bottom, new ARB link and new TRE and a new driveshaft.

As soon as I started working on it, it started blowing a blizzard! Got the top bits all changed over but I can't get the inner section of the driveshaft out. I have removed the c shaped bearing retainer but I cant get it to budge. Has anyone got any suggestions?

I did try to lever it with a crowbar but discovered that there was a plastic flange attaching a coolant hose to the block. I discovered it when all the coolant dropped onto the drive! Does anyone have a picture or part number for this flange? Its a plastic bit that bolts on to the block behind and slightly above the crank pulley to the rear of the engine just above the bracket that holds the bearing for the driveshaft.

It's looking like another week of taking the bus. Not too much of a problem except the nearest bus stop is a four mile walk down a 1:4 snow covered hill.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'll give it a bash (no pun intended). Wish I'd thought to do it before I put all the suspension back in. I was trying to save the jobs where I'd be lying in the snow till last!
 

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People might moan at me, but tbh, you are best avoiding ANY PSA product between 2001-2006/7 ish.

After this, the electrics are generally fine, along with the rest of the car. Almost like PSA didn't nail down the CAN Bus networks, while trying to introduce DPF's, and it just didn't work too well and this is when PSA ruined their reputation.

The heater issue is the well known "heater flap" issue, search for that and you'll get the required information.

DPF issues.... ahhhh.... really need it plugging into Peugeot Planet (the dealer software) to tell you what it think's is wrong before trying to fix it!
 

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Haha, I generally avoid all french cars full stop. joking aside, I love old citroens. Growing up we had a string of dyanes, gsa's, and cx estates. we also had a bx briefly although it never got used. My dad bought it off a woman for £30 after she filled it with oil and it wouldnt turn over - she filled it to the brim! Also had a peugeot 104. My dad still loves his citroens and has three c5s currently, and a xantia before those, as well as a synergie for a while. We also had a string of renaults while i was young, mostly 25's.

I googled the heater flap thing. might try the cut a hole in the side bmethod. im certainly not replacing the whole unit!

The DPF additive thing was definitely that as the tank was empty. Mivght explain why the car is so gutless although it's hard to tell as my last daily drive was 385bhp.

I have taken a couple of pics of the offending broken coolant flange thing to see if anyone can identify it. I cant find it online at all using many different searches, I think that it might be going to the EGR cooler but its impossible to see down the back of the engine and its raining heavily! I'll need to try to figure out how to post pics off my computer first though
 

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Sign yourself up for free to Service Box

And find out all the part numbers for anything and everything you might need. It will also give you prices too. Unless you know where that pipe goes, it's hard to pinpoint. Also green coolant? Pretty sure all pugs used the red type!

Actually I remember now, yes you need the dealer software (or similar, generic OBD tools won't work) to tell the car it is now full of DPF fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh cool, thanks i'll check that out. I think it might be related to the egr cooler by looking at pics online. I think the green colour is the plastic, the coolant was yellowy brown and smelled like oldschhool ethylene glycol.... probably still the wrong stuff still.

bloody pain re: the dpf fluid.
 

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The pipe housing you have cracked is just a coolant connection its nothing to do with EGR etc it feeds the coolant to/from the block to the water housing on the end of the head.

The shaft will come out with a good whack its vert tight

The car needs TOLD it has DPF fluid filling it makes no difference it still thinks its empty you may also need to wash out the filter and tell it it has a new one of them too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tried removing the broken flange tonight. The actual flange part itself came off with some difficulty..... Access is very tight! The main part of it stayed put though. After crawling underneath, I could see that the plastic flange with the rubber hose actually has a plastic pipe on the far side of it which joins on to a metal pipe. God only knows how it comes off, I'm hoping it's just a push fit but I could only barely see it. The replacement part I've ordered is made of metal apparently. Hopefully it's the right part
 

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Can you not bodge the broken plastic piece together? If you've still got the plastic bit that came off, epoxy it all together?
 

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That will be the last option. I had considered it but it is in many pieces and very brittle. I wouldn't trust it at all. The problems of access and removal still stand as well. It's entirely likely that I will have to remove the cat and possibly the turbo just to get my (massive) hands in there.
 

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I got the replacement part the other day but was a little dubious. As I mentioned before the replacement part is metal,, some sort of sintered aluminium by the looks of it and the original part is obviously plastic. When I got the new one, the angle on it looked way off but I managed o find a half decent pic of the back of one of these engines and it had the metal part. It looks to be fitted onto an angled upstand on the block so that the angled section kind of runs parallel to the block.

It's currently not raining, so will hopefully get this fitted today and get the suspension back together with all the new bits. Hopefully the driveshaft will be the right length. I'm assuming its just the outer section that comes in different lengths, in which case I will be OK. Might actually have a working car again by the end of the day!
 

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aargh. Spent the whole day today trying to get this thing fixed. Spent about three hours trying to prise off the remains of the plastic pipe from the metal pipe. As far as I can see its a simple push fit with a rubber seal. Couldnt budge it even one millimetre!

My dad came up to give me a hand. We decided to give up on the plastic pipe and try and get the driveshaft out. Another three hours spent with pry bars, hammers, bigger hammers etc. Eventually got a hand winch on it and tried pulling it out with that. It ended up supporting the entire weight of the car, and even then with me underneath clouting it with a sawn off sledgehammer it still wouldnt budge. Im going to try the ten ton hydraulic pullers on it tomorrow if I can bodge something for them to push against. If that still doesnt shift it ill burn the damn thing off. I'm really starting to hate this car! (I have removed the c clamp bearing retainer by the way)
 

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Another five hours of my life wasted crawling around in subzero temperatures on the driveway. Still zero progress. Got the winch tightened up until the car was balancing with its entire weight on it until the webbing strap snapped. Made up a puller using m16 threaded rod through the driveshaft hole in the hub. This ended up snapping another webbing strap. Used an entire bottle of MAP gas trying to heat up the alloy engine mount/bearing retainer. Flattened off and resharpened a big cold chisel four times smacking the stupid thing. Managed to rig up the ten ton pullers but they kept slipping off the rounded back end of the inner CV. I cant even begin to explain how much I loathe this car now.
 

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"Six days after buying it I went round a bend at 60mph and suddenly started spinning all over the place amid a shower of sparks and flew into a field. the fornt drivers side suspension had completely collapsed. The PO had replaced the hub but the garage hadn't put a nut on the bolt that attaches everything to the bottom link and it had worked its way out.

Luckily I was relatively close to home so stuck a chain on the tow bar and dragged it to a place I could work on it in relatively shallow mud compared to where it came to a rest! The top link of the suspension was twisted, the drive shaft had been pulled out and the ball/roller things in the inner joint were spread about the countryside. Anti roll bar link was snapped and the track rod end was bent."


I think this is your problem, in a car that weighs 1.5 tonnes at 60mph, the moment of impact will be a maximum of 30000 N/m of force. Your engine makes a maximum of ~340N/m to put it into perspective. That's more than enough to bend a heck of a lot of stuff... I reckon there's more damage than you can see, possible something bent in a way preventing it from coming apart.
 

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Another three hours today at minus two! Finally got the thing shifted. Interestingly there was no oil flood from the gearbox. I have oil to replace it but need to figure out how to drain it. Maybe a large easiout in the rounded hole in the drain plug.

Anyway. Next challenge is to get the remains of the plastic coolant pipe thing off. Sods law states that the rubber seal will definitely be toast and will need replacing. The replacement one is sintered aluminium so at least i don't need to worry about breaking it! Unfortunately it's something called christmas day tomorrow and I'm not allowed working on the car, so it;s going to be thursday before i can get anything else done. I hope the weather holds out. i dont mind cold, but rain is a pain!
 

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I think this is your problem, in a car that weighs 1.5 tonnes at 60mph, the moment of impact will be a maximum of 30000 N/m of force. Your engine makes a maximum of ~340N/m to put it into perspective. That's more than enough to bend a heck of a lot of stuff... I reckon there's more damage than you can see, possible something bent in a way preventing it from coming apart.
Luckily there wasnt an impact as such. The front passenger side went into a hedge and scratched it up and broke the headlight, but at that moment the drivers side wheel whipped round and sent it flying off into the field which slowed it all down quite nicely by filling the engine compartment with soil.

I'm fairly sure it was just stuck together by 15 years of aluminium to steel corrosion. Thats not to say its not been bent up with my efforts to part the bond! i really dont understand why they couldnt have put a sliver of brass in between the two metals too make things easier for us poor sods years down the line.

Does that engine really have 340 Nm of torque? Didnt feel anything like that, overtaking was just a slow gradual acceleration and required planning and plenty of clear road. i suppose the DPF may well be partially blocked. Ive no idea how long it has been running around with no DPF fluid in it. Interestingly, my A8 made 164Nm torque at idle, 950 at full belt yet the drivetrain components dont seem all that much bigger. Mind you it doesnt take a great deal of extra material to gain a lot of strength.
 

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Cold chisel and hammer on the edge of the drain plug and replace with new should get the drain plug out.
 

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Got everything back together yesterday. Filled it up with water (hopefully the temperature won't go below freezing tonight) no leaks! Took it for a drive today. Steering wheel juddering as badly as it was before the crash at low speeds. Took it for a wheel alignment and balance. Drivers side tyre had a massive bulge in it, presumably from the accident but possibly not as the wheel juddered before. Decided to just stick the spare on to save some money. Bulge in the sidewall like a golf ball!

So £180 lighter for two new tyres and an alignment but finally the thing drives straight and is safe (ish..... Brake banjos are seriously corroded - don't know who did the MOT). So need to fix brakes, fix the charnwood, fix the dpf, fix the steering - it's ridiculously light at all speeds - and I'll have a decent car!
 
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