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Discussion Starter #1
The quick question, when cranking the 1.6 HDi (my daughters is a 2007) should the rev counter move or does it not?

Long question. My daughters injectors have been slightly leaking for a while now and the EGR stuck open Monday, EGR stuck is what the AA recovery guy said when he towed her home. Anyway I took out injectors 1 and 4, cleaned them up, got the seats and manholes nice and clean, new seals and tighened to 4nm + 65. I stripped the EGR top off and it was a mess inside, cleaned it all out so it was nice and free and put the top back on making sure the slots on the motor went over the arm in the base. I even gave it new inlet manifold seals.

It has repaid my love and attention by refusing to start. I know I pulled the fuel pipe bracket to one side and the cam sensor is attached to it and I wondered if I broke a wire and hence the no start and the no rev counter response (assuming the rev counter comes of the cam sensor anyway).

I have a new reader on order but any thoughts would be appreciated....
 

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You wont see the rev counter move on cranking rev counter is driven from crank sensor signal anyway via the engine ecu

Do beep test if you had the battery off you may have lost key codes if not done correctly

If thats ok and you recon your work is done correctly i would give it a tow start they can be reluctant to go after fuel system has been opened.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Neither key beeps if left in the ignition in the off position and the door is opened. Obviously the ECU has lost the keys and that now also needs dealing with. To be fair the battery is weak and goes into economy mode after 10 seconds cranking so that may not have helped. Bugger....
 

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Ok dont mess with anything else till you get the keys sorted out and if your battery is that bad replace it to avoid the key codes being lost again.

Its the BSI that stores the keys not the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #7
No I didn't. Looking round for the right Lexia kit so I can reprogram these keys but there are so many version numbers on eBay that I am not actually sure at the moment what I need.

I still can't believe that disconnecting and reconnecting a battery can lose the programming but I guess it can so that's that.....
 

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First you need to bleed the fuel system.
Second if you have disconnected the battery you need to reinitialize the BSI.
The key codes are not lost, they get lost if someone reset the BSI unit by mistake or using a wrong diagnostic software and corrupt the BSI unit.
if you need more information let me know.
 

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Hi Mark,

1. Whenever a vehicle battery has to be disconnected, switch off all equipment interior lights etc. close the doors
leaving the driver's window down.
2. Switch off the ignition and remove the key and DIAG if connected.
3. Wait a full 3-minutes before disconnecting the battery.
The BSI must be allowed to go to sleep i.e into 'Power Save' mode. Do not operate any equipment on the vehicle during
this time. Remember, even opening the bonnet will wake up the BSI on the vehicle fitted with an alarm.

1. Close all doors on the vehicle, leave the driver windows open, leave the bonnet open to have access for battery
2. Remove the ignition key if left in the ignition.
3. Reconnect the battery.
4. Wait 10 seconds.
5. Switch on the headlights through the driver's window. You will hear a 'Bong'.
6. Switch on the ignition then start the vehicle and check systems are functioning.
Upon reconnection of the battery: If any vehicle function controlled by the BSI i.e. interior light is switched on, the internal operation of the BSI has the potential to spike or corrupt its configuration and software program.
 

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I was under the impression also that injectors are coded and must be in the correct position so if you removed two injectors together did you refit them in their original places? Maybe if you swapped them around the car wouldn't start? I'm sure someone will correct me on this if I'm wrong.
 

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you can swap them but that is not mean the engine not start, the code is only for the ECU to know the "class type of injectors" if they are not codded correct in ECU you can have a bad runner engine , lot of fuel consumption lot of smoke bad rev on idle etc.
 

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I would double check in case I’ve never had an issue after replacing a injector but only done 1 at a time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Guys the BSI reset worked a treat after the third go and the key is now seen again, never thought I would enjoy hearing beeping from a key left in. :)

It still won't start so I will tow it later when I can get a mate over. I have pumped the primer bulb for a few minutes and it is firm and almost silent, the reader say no faults so I am guessing it needs a tow start. I hope so anyway.....

Thanks again!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A friend just came over with are rather fancy Autel reader that can get live data of the ECU and the fuel pressure is 8 bar when cranking, in short it isn't priming properly even though I thought it was.

I have taken of the 2 hoses over the timing belt cover and reseated them, I have done the same with the 2 on the fuel filter and I have removed the 4 bleed off connectors and checked the O rings. All seems fine.

When I first pump the bulb there is nothing there and you can here air rushing out, I think there is a little air bleed in front of the primer bulb (tiny housing with foam in it). After a few minutes you start to hear the diesel slooshing about and the bulb gets firmer but it never goes hard and every time you press it you here some small amount of air escaping.

How hard should the bulb go and should all air noise completely stop?

Cheers...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry for another post. Pumped the bulb for 20 minutes this morning and the bulb is far firmer, the air escaping noise is there every time I press the bulb but when I release it the bubbling noises are gone. Crank it over at it goes between 8 and 40 bar so no where near the hundreds it needs.

Any thoughts except for a match would be great....
 
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