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Discussion Starter #1
I've spent 'most' of the weekend trawling through the forums, as I'm a new member :thumb:

If this thread is in the wrong place etc. please move it?

Story so far:.... on my 2003 307SW 2.0 HDI 110

In the intense heat of 2 weeks ago, the first sign of 'something wrong' was the first time it has not wanted to start, (I noted that I didn't hear the usual fuel pump whine), a couple of turns later it started and drove home 15 miles.

Monday morning it was not playing at all, Weds fortunately it did start) it went to the garage for diagnosis & MOT (passed) but they phoned me to tell me they couldn't get the car off their ramp as it wouldn't start!

We'll miss out the unimportant bits here - ...

Got another 9650664080 BSM B3 and put that in place, the car started, I took it back to the garage and had them check, then clear whatever faults were showing - and had a running car from Sat until last Thurs !
Needed the car on Friday and yeah, it wouldnt play. :crutches:

Now I read that the engine bay fuse box is really called the BSI (am I correct)

How did I manage to get this to run for a few days before it packed up?

Is there anyone close to St Neots, Papworth, Huntingdon area who can run a diagnostic and let me know whats wrong??? PLEASE :)

I spent some of the weekend checking fuel supply (OK), and investigating why there is 'more than just a film' of oil in the air intake - I'm guessing here that the turbo may have gone as air filter is clean, can only see oil from the intercooler back to the manifold?


Thanks in advance for any help that may be forthcoming.
*Hides from the flak about posting in wrong place etc*:eek:
 

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The first thing to check is if the immobiliser is recognising the key. Try to start it. If it does not start then switch key off and leave in ignition. Open driver's door... does it chime to remind you key is in ignition?
 

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Your non start is likely to be wiring related replacing parts rarely works

oil in the intake is normal 2 litre turbos rarely fail to be honest and if it had failed the intake would be swimming but thats not your starting issue anyway

key test as above first.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
WillNZ - key/immobiliser chatting

Mr. Reliable, I'll be casting eyes over the wiring and using multimeter with continuity tester.
Thanks for the initial pointers guys


Report from garage this morning, they used a Snap-off diagnosis as there is no-one close to me with PP. (Or I'd be there now getting sorted)

P0403 EGR (open circuit?)
P1458 Coolant Solenoid valve (believed to be the one on the oil-cooler matrix prior to the air filter)
P1451 ???
P1402 EGR throttle valve short/open circuit
P0243 Turbo Solenoid Valve A
P1135 3rd piston deactivation short to earth or open circuit
Leak test ok.
Suspect High Pressure Pump not making enough pressure, estimated repair cost £952.87 - on a car that only cost me £700......
One local scrappy later - same model fuel pump £25...

I'm just off to replace the pump and see what happens...
 

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Did they do live data readings for cam and crank sync engine speed and fuel pressure ?

Gucci snap on gear can do this :)

You need key recognised FIRST as we said is it ?

Then live data codes mean nothing on these live data tells the real story

cam and crank sync must be yes

fuel pressure must get to 120 bar but should get to 300 bar

cranking speed must get to 250rpm
 

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P1451 Evaporative emission control system vent control valve circuit

The number/type of faults you have could be caused by a low or incorrectly disconnected battery. You need to reset all faults and then fault find again after trying to start vehicle. See which ones reappear.

As Reliable says, the only way to get to the bottom of your fault is to check live data while cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gets to garage, asks to get my car out and guess what...it started !!
Pissing out diesel all over the place as when he did the leak test the mechanic broke one of the leak off pipe connectors!!
He also asked how did I get it started!! And no further tests were done as I get the impression they're glad to see the back of me...shan't be going there again!!

So, its home & I'm trying to contact a member for some help with regard to connecting PP.

Hoping I'm not without a car for too long, this is now the third week, and nothing has really been achieved.

Have a better day tomorrow guys, and thanks for your help so far
 

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At the age and as it a 110 it should have Bosch Injection. Intermittent non starting can often by LP in tank pump on these.

When it next does not start look at the fuel filter when ign first switched on you can see it swell slightly or disconnect filter feed and fuel should come gushing out on ign on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Its official....I'm a WINKER (deliberate misspelling)

I replaced the worn out/buttons missing remote key fob....

You just KNOW what I'm going to say......

YES, I 'forgot' about the tiny black transponder chip when putting key blade and circuit board into the new plastic fob. :nono:

I'll give up now and wait for the deserved flak :bang:


Can anyone please tell me.. is it possible to get a transponder from another key and have it coded to my car, or should I just tape the transponder that does work somewhere near the ignition barrel. New key=£59, programming = £66
 

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You said the key was being read it obviously was not !!!

For future reference the remote working to lock the doors is NOTHING to do with the immobiliser as you now know there are 2 parts to the key.

Transponders are write once chips and are matched to the remote so if you code another chip the remote will never work again.

If you want starting AND remote you need a complete NEW key.

That plastic key case has now become expensive because you did not do research !!
 

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The first thing to check is if the immobiliser is recognising the key. Try to start it. If it does not start then switch key off and leave in ignition. Open driver's door... does it chime to remind you key is in ignition?
Say no more....:D
 

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YES, I 'forgot' about the tiny black transponder chip when putting key blade and circuit board into the new plastic fob. :nono:.
That happens so often - the sellers of the key cases should warn you about that pitfall. I knew nothing about the transponder chip, but was too lazy to remove the circuit board from the back of the case - just replaced the top. Blissful ignorance, but soooo lucky:thumb:
 
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