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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so ABS light on the dash

I've checked all four wheel sensors with a meter at all sensor connector plugs and there is no voltage getting to any sensor.

All fuses have been checked ok so I then took off the BIG connector at the ABS unit under the battery and found there is definitely voltage going into the unit.

There is also no voltage getting to the Brake Fluid Reservoir sensor.

Wires are good as I have buzzed out the loom to each of the above with a meter.

So opinions please, is the ABS unit under the battery caput ?
Is it something else ?

If I need a new unit will second hand be any good / need coding ?

Anyone repair the units and at what cost ?

Advice welcomed, thank you.
 

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found this for you (Read the comments)

307 full wheel( you dont need to take it all apart to get the sensor out. unless magnetic ring is gone)


Go with the first test, per wheel till you find the wheel with the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that it looks interesting.

Will take a look in a day or two when the boy has a day off work.

Much obliged.
 

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ABS wheel sensors send magnetically generated pulses to the ECU, they do not have voltage sent to them from the ABS pump/ECU. You can unplug and read the resistance of each wheel sensor individually, they should all be very close resistance-wise. Open circuit or a resistance that differs vastly from the others would normally indicate a faulty wheel sensor. But there are other faults which can occur like clogged up/damaged rings etc. Pumps do fail. Make sure the pump fuse is not blown.
Does the ABS light come on immediately and stay on, or does it only light up once you are moving?
The sensor in the brake fluid reservoir grounds when level is low which triggers the light, no + voltage is on the sensor wires.
You need to get your car scanned with PP2000/Diagbox, that will take the guesswork out of the whole process. Once you have read the faults, clear them and take it for a drive and recheck which faults return. Preferably, when taking the car for a drive, leave the PP2000/Diagbox connected and check live ABS readings on each wheel.
 

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ABS wheel sensors send magnetically generated pulses to the ECU, they do not have voltage sent to them from the ABS pump/ECU. You can unplug and read the resistance of each wheel sensor individually, they should all be very close resistance-wise. Open circuit or a resistance that differs vastly from the others would normally indicate a faulty wheel sensor. But there are other faults which can occur like clogged up/damaged rings etc. Pumps do fail. Make sure the pump fuse is not blown.
Does the ABS light come on immediately and stay on, or does it only light up once you are moving?
The sensor in the brake fluid reservoir grounds when level is low which triggers the light, no + voltage is on the sensor wires.
You need to get your car scanned with PP2000/Diagbox, that will take the guesswork out of the whole process. Once you have read the faults, clear them and take it for a drive and recheck which faults return. Preferably, when taking the car for a drive, leave the PP2000/Diagbox connected and check live ABS readings on each wheel.
correct, as said allot of electronics in the cars these days, measure "resistance" and dont operate on electrical volt. even injectors, though they do get voltage its the coil resistance you measure to see if its ok. and even that is a so so test.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks I didn't realise the sensors generated the voltage as thought it was the other way around so some progress perhaps.

1/ Will measure resistances of sensors,

2/ Will try the wheel spinning as shown in the video, presume I listen out for the beeping sound ?

3/ Yes the ABS light comes on immediately and stays on.

Thanks, will report back with my findings.
 

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Can you get someone with a Lexia (PP2000) to diagnose? I think you have dead ABS sensor which is quite common, and since ABS light is on you wont be getting beep since car cant tell for sure if its moving (I know this because one of my sensors was giving false speed reading and car was beeping to lower the handbrake when stationary, when it finally showed ABS/ESP error, I could drive it with HB on and the car would not show a warning)

Here is a picture from 407 FB group
 

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As the light comes on immediately and stays on means there is a 'fatal' fault with the system. If it only came on when travelling, it would most likely be a fault with the hubs themselves [dirty toothed rings/wrong air gap etc]. Don't exclude problems on the hubs though..

Ideally you need to scan it, but checking resistances of sensors, fuses might help getting to the bottom of it.
 

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As said these faults are best diagnosed using planet as it can read live data from wheel sensors etc but as above if light is on right away you have something other than wheel sensors faulty.

Incidently i had a 307 with ABS fault and the level sensor was faulty this was enough to put the light on and it seems this is a common issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't have access to PP/2000 so am currently trying to avoid going to the dealership but may have to in the end ...

so in addition to my list above ^^ I will add on :

1/ Using a meter on AC to check sensor voltage generation

2/ Visual check of sensors and rings - don't want to remove just yet in case of damage.

The brake fluid sensor I mentioned earlier and this puzzles me a lot !

Hoping to have the car to hand this Thursday so hope to report back with either more info or fingers crossed good news.
 

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As said these faults are best diagnosed using planet as it can read live data from wheel sensors etc but as above if light is on right away you have something other than wheel sensors faulty.

Incidently i had a 307 with ABS fault and the level sensor was faulty this was enough to put the light on and it seems this is a common issue.
On my 407 first it intermittently showed error while driving and then it was on permanently as soon as I start the car, front left sensor was dead :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok so some diagnostic progress to report :

Tried the wheel spinning with engine running as per video above - no joy

Sensor resistances measured..

O/S/F @ 3.8 Meg Ohms O/S/R @ 5.2 Meg Ohms
N/S/F @ 83 Ohms N/S/R @ 0.4 Meg Ohms

Obviously some sensors are U/S .....

Tried connecting a meter set to AC Volts to check output when wheel spun but no output on all sensors.

Looked on Youtube and found this interesting helpful but long video ....


and settled back to my original notion of voltage being needed at the sensors.

Metered out the sensor looms back to the Pump Connector and all good.

Checked the pin outs at the plug and no voltage output from module

Removed the pump module front to expose the circuit board and metered the pin outs from inside towards the plug and all good.

Noticed that three soldered joints at the pin outs had what looked like dry joints so put a soldering iron on each and reassembled.

Engine on and tested for voltage at sensor plugs - voltage now found at three sensor plugs so yippee some progress, one still had no voltage. Voltage also now present at the fluid reservoir switch.

Removed the module again and once more tried to heat the joint but no good when tested.
Tried to remove the PCB from the moulding to access the rear of it but no luck.

Clearly the module board was causing problems so another with the same part numbers has been sourced from eBay @ £22 posted and will advise you all of progress when it arrives so hold breath for a few days .....

Sensor resistances ... Google advises many values from many sites but the site detailed above in the link suggests the approx 4 and 5 Meg Ohm sensor readings I have are correct.

Any corroboration would be useful.

I won't get any sensors just yet and will wait on the " new " module and try and get that last sensor voltage before spending further.

Cheers all for the help so far ...... fingers crossed.

P.S. After removing the battery a few times I now have an anti pollution warning on the dash ! Something for another day ( BSI reset done with no change ).

Edit : Can I take it the ABS Pump Module doesn't need coding ??? I hope not .
 

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Ok so some diagnostic progress to report :

Tried the wheel spinning with engine running as per video above - no joy

Sensor resistances measured..

O/S/F @ 3.8 Meg Ohms O/S/R @ 5.2 Meg Ohms
N/S/F @ 83 Ohms N/S/R @ 0.4 Meg Ohms

Obviously some sensors are U/S .....

Tried connecting a meter set to AC Volts to check output when wheel spun but no output on all sensors.

Looked on Youtube and found this interesting helpful but long video ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Zk9ZSECN0s

and settled back to my original notion of voltage being needed at the sensors.

Metered out the sensor looms back to the Pump Connector and all good.

Checked the pin outs at the plug and no voltage output from module

Removed the pump module front to expose the circuit board and metered the pin outs from inside towards the plug and all good.

Noticed that three soldered joints at the pin outs had what looked like dry joints so put a soldering iron on each and reassembled.

Engine on and tested for voltage at sensor plugs - voltage now found at three sensor plugs so yippee some progress, one still had no voltage. Voltage also now present at the fluid reservoir switch.

Removed the module again and once more tried to heat the joint but no good when tested.
Tried to remove the PCB from the moulding to access the rear of it but no luck.

Clearly the module board was causing problems so another with the same part numbers has been sourced from eBay @ £22 posted and will advise you all of progress when it arrives so hold breath for a few days .....

Sensor resistances ... Google advises many values from many sites but the site detailed above in the link suggests the approx 4 and 5 Meg Ohm sensor readings I have are correct.

Any corroboration would be useful.

I won't get any sensors just yet and will wait on the " new " module and try and get that last sensor voltage before spending further.

Cheers all for the help so far ...... fingers crossed.

P.S. After removing the battery a few times I now have an anti pollution warning on the dash ! Something for another day ( BSI reset done with no change ).

Edit : Can I take it the ABS Pump Module doesn't need coding ??? I hope not .
PP2000 diag will tell you the one sending the fault code. Is that all MEG ohm or is that one just ohm? the other also low 0.4

Have a read here also good info
Rear ABS Sensor Help Please » Peugeot 407 forum » Peugeot Central

Please dont disconnect the battery with out following the safe disconnect procedure. You may end up loosing your BSI information.


HOLD ON STOPPPPPPP!
did you just order a BSI board... do not plug it in especial as its got millage on it , and if higher millage will alter your millage to the higher !!! and will still needs PP2000 and activation and customer codes and key coding, alarm extra... or special eeprom blanking and your old BSI cloned and coppied over (Unless it was a blanked/Virgin board and even then you still need all the infor and secuurity code card with PP2000 and not easy at all) Horible technical computer nightmare.


It does sound like you fixed a good few thing but that one ohm looks low. its never going to be a 100% ohm test. Have you had a look on this forum to see if anyone in your area can come and check your error codes with lexia and pp2000 "Peugeot Planet" diag machine.

Well done so far on what you fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes one is 83 Ohms and the other 0.4 Meg Ohms ( 40 Kilo Ohms ).

Battery disconnects and reconnects done as per BBA Reman info ( thank goodness I knew about that from Berlingo ownership ) same with BSI reset.

BSI Board ... is the ABS pump module ( big lump under the battery with brake pipes attached ) a part of the BSI then ??

This is the part I've bought : eBay 262852345324
also image below




I thought the BSI was behind the passenger glove box inside the cabin - pardon me I'm more used to 1950's vehicles.

I'm not worried about mileage readout but the need to essentially reprogram everything would be a nightmare :eek:

No I've not checked the PP/2000 map yet as I don't like to put people out and am trying to keep that as a last gasp cry for help.

Edit : Thanks for the link will have a read now
 

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Yes one is 83 Ohms and the other 0.4 Meg Ohms ( 40 Kilo Ohms ).

Battery disconnects and reconnects done as per BBA Reman info ( thank goodness I knew about that from Berlingo ownership ) same with BSI reset.

BSI Board ... is the ABS pump module ( big lump under the battery with brake pipes attached ) a part of the BSI then ??

This is the part I've bought : eBay 262852345324
also image below




I thought the BSI was behind the passenger glove box inside the cabin - pardon me I'm more used to 1950's vehicles.

I'm not worried about mileage readout but the need to essentially reprogram everything would be a nightmare :eek:

No I've not checked the PP/2000 map yet as I don't like to put people out and am trying to keep that as a last gasp cry for help.

Edit : Thanks for the link will have a read now
my bad, for a minute there i though your getting a bsi unit, so is this the ABS control pump. (not sure if it effects the BSI or not)

Your correct

anyhow this is a BSI so your in the clear https://www.romatronic.pl/userdata/gfx/1c5a038eb191b575eb3e0d8291591f6f.jpg

from what I have read most poeople are saying the ohm is in the mega range. I can test my ABS tomorro and confirm is good in mega range and let you know.
I did like that Idea of getting a spare good sensor and finding the faulty by check one at a time. Ebay were selling new for about 8quids but from china it takes a month! (maybe you can borrow a friends? lol)
Asking pp2000 (if you dont ask you dont get Mr)

some people had result cleaning the sensors. Somewhere in a post around here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks for the quick reply it makes for a sense of relief :nod:

Good to hear about Meg Ohms being correct, nice one.

Don't ask don't get ..... yes one of my foibles I'm afraid - must get out more !


Out of interest for others ....
On a thread linked to somewhere above a poster was asking how you know which sensor is which at the rear - answer is - don't rely on the relative positions of the sensor plugs above the tank in the access hole under the seat as they can be swapped over, the best way is to look at the manual for colours of wire and compare to pin outs on the module plug.

Edit : PeugeotD somehow my computer didn't show your post until after I made this reply so it may look a little disjointed ... will keep an open mind and look at your link, bumping is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Yikes that thread tells of a need to use PP2000 to bleed the brakes :eek:

I know I'm more familiar with 1950's vehicles but that sounds nuts, I do have a pressure bleeder and would prime the pump prior to fitting.

Tell me it isn't true ... please :eek:
 

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Something to keep in mind I have purchased so.e of the cheap sensors off ebay, some work for a couple of months then pack up , some don't work at all, ones from GSF and euro car parts last alot longer , just my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the heads up on the eBay situation will get sensors at my local Motor Factors, sometimes a couple of bob extra pays dividends.

Oh by the way my sweat on bleeding the brakes is a mute point as I will just be swapping the electronic side which doesn't affect the hydraulic circuit, phew
 
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