Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I have no heat in my car even after installing a brand new thermostat unit (item FTK481)

I was then told it had an air lock.the system was drained,refilled and all attempts to bleed the car by the mechanic failed.he then told me he scanned the car and there was a code showing it needed a new part related to the heating but i cant remember which part and he wont pick up the phone now for me to get it fixed or for him to even tell me which part it was so i can get it done elsewhere.he's also not working for the same garage anymore!

Does any body have any ideas what part he meant? he told me the part was no more than £10 to buy and very straight forward to fit so im guessing its some sort of sensor

Any help greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,887 Posts
Sounds to me like he is a cowboy !

Its not hard to bleed system but needs done properly i recon its still got an airlock BUT that depends on if you had a heater BEFORE the thermostat got changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply.I changed the thermostat because i had no heat.i took it to two mechanics who told me it was most likely that but they were way to expensive so i took it to this guy who had a good rep and a very fair price so i dont know why he's done a runner unless he has personal issues going on

I watched him change the thermostat and he attempted to bleed the system for a solid hour and no luck.when he scanned the car he said its showing a 'something' sensor fault and i can't for the life of me remember the sensor name.i was under the impression all the sensors for heating were inside the complete thermostat unit i had replaced
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
did he bleed it at the bulkhead as most models have a bleed point there as its a common place for airlocks and the bleed point is not obvious unless you look for it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think so as he was in quite deep into the car turning something with a screwdriver close to the passenger side of the car? I was around the other side so couldn't see clearly.sorry i can't be more descriptive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,469 Posts
Peugeot state that bleeding the system requires the fitting of a "filling cylinder" onto the expansion chamber, to increase the pressure in the system. Without that, it is sometimes possible (depending on model) the unship the expansion chamber, and raise it as far as the connecting hose will permit, to get the same effect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,887 Posts
There really is no need for filling cylinders etc as i already said its not as hard to bleed as some make out but some people do seem to struggle.if you had no heat before thermostat was changed i doubt it is your real issue it may well be bled fine.

If there is air in it it will generally self bleed while driving anyway.

What does your temp gauge say both before and after thermostat change ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I recently had no heat, I replaced the heater matrix behind the console on the passenger side and after 3 drains of the system finally got piping hot. (could of been the matrix, or just an air lock to start with :) )

there are 2 hoses going in to the cabin at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side (behind the battery), these go in and out to the heater matrix. the top hose has the bleed valve on (based on my Peugeot 308 1.6 petrol).

you can just about get to it but easier if you remove the air flow box and pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for your replies

i had the car in january and the temp gauge to me has always been quite consistent.

my two original mechanics that had a look said the thermostat needed changing based on the temp gauge getting half way (where it should be) and then dropping a bit when idle which indicates the car is running a bit cold (stuck thermostat)

it does drop a bit when driving on fast roads to but im sure thats normal.

since having the new thermostat installed and still no heat i haven't paid attention to the temp gauge to still see if its dropping so il start monitoring that.could it be possible that he wasn't flushing the vehicle correctly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I also forgot to mention it was on the 23rd feb the thermostat unit/housing was changed and car bled to no avail.

iv done at least 1000 miles since then and still no heat

what i find weird is he told me he got it a bit warmer when bleeding the system then for some reason plugged it in and read a code that told him its a sensor issue and iv not heard from him since? Im baffled lol

Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I recently had no heat, I replaced the heater matrix behind the console on the passenger side and after 3 drains of the system finally got piping hot. (could of been the matrix, or just an air lock to start with :) )

there are 2 hoses going in to the cabin at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side (behind the battery), these go in and out to the heater matrix. the top hose has the bleed valve on (based on my Peugeot 308 1.6 petrol).

you can just about get to it but easier if you remove the air flow box and pipe.
Mine was a blocked matrix too causing no heat, apparently its a very common problem on these Peugeots according to a local company that cleans them out, the peugeot ones are the only ones he wont touch because the fins are so thin.

Anyway, I was dreading changing mine, ive not done one in years and the last one I ever did required removing the dash, on my pug though (1.6 vti petrol) it was surprisingly easy, the part cost me £40 off ebay, and I changed it on the drive in about 30 mins.

Bleeding, easiest way is to remove that big chunky air intake pipe, its just 1 jublee clip and one 10mm bolt then it just pulls out, fill the system with coolant, get someone else to start the engine, the matrix is not part of the thermostat system, so the coolant will go down pretty quickly, just keeping filling it up, the bleed nipple is right at the back where the 2 pipes go into the bulk head, it looks like a plastic dust cap off your wheel, remove it and wait until all of the air is out and you have a steady flow of coolant coming out.

I made a video for someone else here to show where the matrix is and how to change it, sorry its a very short video and just a quick explination as I had already changed mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Mrkage89 it's worth checking the matrix, if you remove the panel on the side of the console as Seanie280672 video shows, my pipe coming in was getting hot but no heater, fans were working fine just blowing cold so I put it down to the matrix being knackered.

as Seanie280672 say's the fins are flimsy and some squashed pulling it out, the aftermarket one I got of ebay seemed better quality and has just been reduced in price since I bought mine :D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-HEATER-MATRIX-RADIATOR-CITROEN-C3-PICASSO-PEUGEOT-308-408/262927228354?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thank you all i really appreciate this

Il have a look at my heater matrix tonight.im guessing if the pipe leading in to the matrix is warm and my fans blow cold then its 100% the matrix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Thank you all i really appreciate this

Il have a look at my heater matrix tonight.im guessing if the pipe leading in to the matrix is warm and my fans blow cold then its 100% the matrix?
Yes, be careful though, the pipes are metal and will be red hot if your car is up to temperature.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,887 Posts
Pipes wont be red hot as the coolant wont be circulating so only heat in the pipes would be heatsoak travelling slowly along the pipes assuming off course the matrix IS the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
To be honest, if you had this issue before you took your car to the mechanics, then non of them were any good.

First of all, unless you have been messing with your cooling system, there is no way for air to get into the system, its whats classed as a closed loop and the only way to get air in there is either by changing a part, or a hole in one of the hoses......in which case, when the car is parked up and cool, you'd also be loosing coolant.

2nd, the thermostat is dead dead easy to test if its working or not, on these cars they are electrical and controlled by the ECU so if faulty, should throw up codes, however to test manually....a stat that is stuck open, both the big hoses at the top and the bottom of the radiator will heat up, same temperature at the same time from cold, a stat that is stuck closed, the bottom radiator hose will always be cold, and a stat that is working perfectly fine, the top hose will get hot, the bottom one will stay cold, when the coolant reaches 95oC the stat will open and the bottom radiator hose will get hot, the thermostat is only there to create a block so that the coolant heats up quicker, thereby giving you heating faster, around 92oC the stat will close again so that your heating doesnt get cold.

I would of tested this and then looked straight at the matix.

On older cars when the stat used to play up, we just used to remove them, the only downside to this was the heating took longer to warm up because as quickly as the water was heating up, it was being cooled down by air entering the front of the vehicle through the radiator, in the winter to get around this, you'd see cars with tin foil over 75% the radiator or front grill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I don't think either of the mechanics were any good to be honest as the first one told me changing the thermostat will be a two day job and cost about £400 and i knew that was complete bull :thumb: i at least had it changed in the end for £30 labour and £50 for the part but im annoyed that it didn't even need changing!

I have a bit of an update.iv got to the heater matrix (Thank you for the video) and had a good feel of the radiator pipe leading in to the matrix.towards the front of the car (engine bay) the pipe is boiling and as the pipe gets closer to the matrix its a lot colder.i got the car up to operating temp and had the fans on full while i done this so can we safely assume it's the matrix is blown or a block/gunk in that area?

I knew this should of been done first but they also told me it took "hours" to get to the heater matrix and only having the car since late january i didnt know enough about the car at the time.so annoying :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,887 Posts
If you have access to a garden hose remove BOTH heater pipes and run a hose through both outlets on the matrix if it flows out lots of sludge from the pipes it may be enough to fix it for now but ultimately the matrix will need changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
this will show you the location of the in and out hoses, the airbox and top of the air filter box have been removed for easier access.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Hello all.bit of an update

A local garage flushed my heater matrix and told me it was clean.he also said he thinks it could be to do with the low/high selector on my heating unit that could be blown (some sort of switch behind the dash/unit) but i disagree as the air does get a little bit warmer from the low setting to the high setting and intermittently i do get some luke warm heat but it disappears quite quickly

Do you think the heater matrix just needs changing? can a heater matrix even just break? also do we have any guides on how to remove the heater control unit? i bet it's a big job :eek:

Thanks in advance :thumb:
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top