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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys. I'm new to this forum as I have only purchased my 2004 2.0 diesel 307 a week ago.
It's all good with the exception of a few issues I am hoping somebody could help with.
Firstly, the key (2 button non flip) will lock the doors but not unlock. I have to put the key in the door to unlock. Not a major issue but a minor inconvenience.
2nd issue, the manual heater controls don't light up and the knob won't turn all the way to cold, only goes about 3 quarters of the way. Is this easy to fix?
Finally and most importantly the clutch. It's high and the pedal is quite firm. It seems to slip occasionally if accelerating hard but not all the time, driving normally causes no issue. It doesn't let off any burning smell at all which seems strange and I've done over 300 miles in it with no issues.
Any help or info would be much appreciated.
Thank you for your help
Jon
 

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Firstly, the key (2 button non flip) will lock the doors but not unlock. I have to put the key in the door to unlock. Not a major issue but a minor inconvenience.
Sometimes the little switches on the circuit board inside the key fail/detach, so the required electrical contact isn't made when you press the button. As a start I'd open the key case and take a look at the switch.
Replacing is straightforward if you can solder surface mount components (as SMD stuff goes, the switches are big, but in actuality still quite small) If you have a shop that actually repairs TV/HiFi/cell phones etc around, they could probably do it. The switches can be sourced off eBay.
Random hit off eBay probably not the best price they can be had for...
 

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Sorry to be a pain. Do you think this would do it? Could I use my existing blade? Sorry if it's a daft question but to say I'm a novice is n understatement
371269623644 | eBay
No worries :)

Looks like that would do it, but without seeing how the blade mounts in both your existing case and the new one, one can't say with 100% certainty - but I'd assume you'd be OK. For a 206 (different , at least externally, blade) I moved my existing blade to the new case w/o issues other than requiring a bit of heat applied to both the end of the blade and the mounting area of the case, due to a bit too tight fit.

Don't forget to transfer the immobiliser chip - looks like it's the same as on the 206 - separate from the circuit board and many miss it (black against black plastic, wedged in a corner of the case) and fail to transfer it - only to have the engine crank but not fire with the new key case.

On other/later models it's mounted on the circuit board and can't hide... :D

Video on 307 key refurb:

Replacing switches:

with ripped solder pad:
 

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Good videos. But video 2 's checking of the switch was incorrect in that by just putting his probes on the ends of the switch only proved the new switch was working but did not check if the circuit was working. Video 3 showed that by checking further away from the switch, but should have been on both sides of the switch. He followed the circuit on one side OK but used the contact point of the other side of the switch as its starting point which again only confirmed the switch was working but not the whole circuit. He needed to go further upstream of that second point to clarify the soldered joint was good! The point I am making is that just because the solder melts and the joint seems secure you can have what is called a dry joint where by the joint has not actually bonded. So it is important to check at points both up and downstream of the switch for continuity.
 
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