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Not on a 308 T9.

Just needs to be the correct spec battery plus shut down / reboot car correctly.
 

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Ok, what do you mean shut down/ reboot correctly?
 

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No problem fitting new battery provided you give the system time, as detailed above.
But I would recommend charging the new battery fully before fitting.
 

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I very much doubt it's the alternator. The voltage control is done by the smart charging system.

How old is the battery, and do you have stop start on the car?
When the battery gets "old" - 3 years in my case - the alternator voltage rises to over 15v all the time. It blew several LEDs which I had fitted to replage normal bulbs. In my case a new battery cured the problem, now charges at around 14.5, except on the overrun when it goes up to 15.2 to charge the ultra capacitors for the SS.

Someone else here had a similar problem and that was the battery condition module fitted to the negative terminal on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've replaced the battery and its the same voltage 15.52 from the battery at idle. I do have stop start on the car.

When does it charge on the overun?
 

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Thanks, will do but first I need an alternator, its overcharging 15.52v.
this is normal.....it is a "pico"hybrid.
but for this u need special battery, like they use. agm/efb/
standard battery would be soon destroyed.

this will push up to 15,2v when downhill engine braking , etc.
later when u drive, it will stop charging, and will use extra stored energy to save fuel. iirc; about 12,8

what i see on my car, charging will resume to "normal" charging 14,4v if::: use fan or main beams.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
this is normal.....it is a "pico"hybrid.
but for this u need special battery, like they use. agm/efb/
standard battery would be soon destroyed.

this will push up to 15,2v when downhill engine braking , etc.
later when u drive, it will stop charging, and will use extra stored energy to save fuel. iirc; about 12,8

what i see on my car, charging will resume to "normal" charging 14,4v if::: use fan or main beams.:)
Yes Ok, but mine is reading 15.52 when at idle.
 

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According to my data, there are three phases of alternator output, controlled by the engine ECU:
  • Load shedding (if battery > 85% and re-accelerating the engine, to use battery charge first)
  • Stabilised Voltage (minimal output of approx 13V, to maintain battery at 85% and attempt fuel economy)
  • Load Acquiring (during braking/deceleration, maximum charge and assisting with engine braking performance/fuel economy).
It produces 12.3V — 15.2V
  • Load shedding voltage : 12,3 Volts
  • Stabilised voltage : 12,85 ± 0,25 volts
  • Load acquiring voltage : 14,55 ± 0,65 volts
Here is a table with some of the outputs:
Conditions of UseVoltage control (Max)Voltage Control (Min)
No restriction15.212.3
Main beam headlights14.214.1
Dipped beam headlights15.214.1
Cabin blower >70%15.214.2
Periodic recharge of battery15.214.6
Electric handbrake activated15.214.2
Particle filter regen15.214.2
Windscreen wipe15.214.2
Windscreen wash15.214.3
Parking assistance15.214.1
Fan unit at high speed14.114.1
When there is a fault of the battery charge status unit, the alternator is managed as a function of coolant temperature.

Periodic recharging:
To improve battery service life, a battery recharging strategy is put into place. The periodic recharge is performed when the last battery recharge was made 15 days previously. The periodic battery recharge is deactivated after a charging time of between 1 and 4 hours (cumulated time over several engine running phases).

Are you checking the voltage during some of these conditions?
 

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There is a lot of difference between 15.2V on the overrun and 15.52v all the time.
The latter is not normal.

I know, as I said earlier, someone here had this problem and it was the gizmo bolted to the negative terminal of the battery. It's not just a terminal. However he needed a Paugeot dealer workshop to diagnose it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Its gone bad to worse, it wont start now.

Going to run the diagnostic on it, see what codes it brings up. The fuel filter was changed which should have fixed the low fuel pressure and it was struggling to start before changing it. :mad:
 

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By "it won't start", what do you mean?
The engine doesn't crank, or it cranks fast but won't start?
Or does it just crank very slowly and not start?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It does crank but wont start, got see codes yesterday:

P008A 00 Low fuel pressure circuit
P00BA 00 Low fuel pressure circuit
P2291 26 Starting Monitoring
U1109 87

I've checked fuel lines, no obvious leaks. Fuel gauge is wrong was showing full tank when it was a quarter.:confused:
 

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Is there any fuel leakage under the car near the front centre of the fuel tank?

I've seen a diesel 308 T9 with fractured fuel pipe in this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, got it started now. They fuel gauge is not working properly, the tank was empty that why it wouldn't start 😁

I need to sort out the fuel gauge now. The gauge is moving but not showing the correct level.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is there any fuel leakage under the car near the front centre of the fuel tank?

I've seen a diesel 308 T9 with fractured fuel pipe in this area.
I did yesterday for any leaks, I couldn't see anything obivious. I will have a look again,

The fuel gauage is not working properly. It's moving but not showing the correct fuel level.:unsure:
 

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I've just fitted a new battery to my 2015 308 1.6 bluehdi. Mine seems to be charging OK but still no start stop and only showing 12.04v on smeg cheat code. Battery actually has 12.6v when checked with a multimeter. The battery I removed was showing 11.3v on smeg but 12.4 with multimeter when removed. I had tried to charge it twice which I assumed had been unsuccessful. It looked like the original battery so I replaced it.
I'm also wondering if the system doesn't recognise a new or charged battery? I can understand a small amount of difference from actual battery charge to what the smeg says but surely not over 1v drop with nothing running?
 
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