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Hi all,

I've seen some information on this forum about the topic I am about to address, but I need help with some more specific details.

I have a 307 diesel estate now - VIN VF33ERHYB.... On my previous car I maintained the brakes successfully for well over 10 years. So far on this one I have renewed the front disks and pads only – a relatively easy job. However the rear is far more involved. I have the hub type of solid rotors equipped with Lucas calipers and ABS rings. Since the rotors are not yet at minimum thickness I initially just want to change the pads. However it seems that even a simple job can become a saga. After an explore, I have the following questions which I shall need help with, before I proceed further.

1. The clip on the handbrake line is not easy to get off – or at least so far no amount of squeezing and prodding by me has freed it through the bracket hole. Any sneaky methods or tricks to this? I take it that this will have to happen before I can swing the outside part of the caliper up, once the guide pin bolts are loosened and the bottom one is removed. I removed the cap hex nut from the middle of the handbrake plate (where the cable hooks on) and also the T30 screw (?) that holds the mounting bracket underneath to the caliper. However the handbrake plate feels as if it is on a bush of some kind, and I didn't want to prise the plate off in case I forced, broke or bent something. This shows the problems with manuals where there is little info on how the thing is actually designed, what's in the interior where things attach , and so on. (Actually the Haynes manual has absolutely no info on the hub type rotors anyway :mad:).

2. Even though I couldn't get the cable clip off I thought there should be at least some free movement in the movable swinging part of the caliper. However it is all very stiff and even though I swung it out about a cm at the bottom, it didn't take to going back again without a fairly hefty wack. After having worked on another car for years where the comparable bits all moved easily and smoothly I find this rather annoying.

3. I read that the pistons are spiral type and need to be wound in clockwise. Having not got as far as exposing the piston yet and taking out the pads I don't know what it looks like. Is it a flange type piston with 4 notches? What are its dimensions please – so I can purchase the right type of adaptor to put on a standard ½ drive extension and ratchet.

4. What size are the large torx screws that mount the inner caliper half to the hub assembly? T55's? Since the line of access for the removal tool is blocked to these fasteners by the obstructing attached lines, is it necessary to take off all the pipe work? Ideally I would like, eventually, to replace the disks and not have to lose or replace any brake fluid in the process.

5. Once the disk job is underway I take it the old bearing has to be chucked? I have a hub bearing press tool for pushing the new bearing into the rotor, but what is the correct procedure for pressing the inner race of the new bearing onto the stub axle? As I mentioned above, the Haynes manual has no information at all on this. :(

6. A phone call to a Peugeot franchise elicited the info that Peugeot replacement disks come with an installed bearing but no ABS ring. Is the old ring easy to prise off? I bought disks from a third party manufacturer – same as I did for the front and they're fine – and although these come without a bearing or an ABS ring, they are half the price.

7. Anyone have a part no. for the rear hub bearing and ring (either Peugeot or from a known bearing manufacturer) just in case I need them?

Sorry for so many questions asking for rather intense and heavy detail. Thanks for any help and the benefit of your experience. :)

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