Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, my beautiful little motor is a 106 Mk II (zest) 1.5 D (57Hp) Diesel 2002
18 years old and only done 70k, fully serviced and twice more in the last 12 months.
Daily use (sole trader handyman). I was at a customers house and went to go get some more paint for her and it just wouldn't start!
I had no option but to call the RAC. An hour and a half later he turned up. an hour and a half after that he admitted he couldn't find the problem and dragged me to my preferred garage. As I'm not allowed on street repairs I always go there as they charge £1 a minute and are very good at their job.
They've had it on the ramp twice so far and they have no idea what is stopping the pump from flowing. Logic says that it's immobilized, but why. The rev counter is twitching when span over so the crank sensor seems okay (it's showing no fault anywhere on their diagnostics) I sent for a sensor anyway and it's the wrong type! the one listed is a sensor and lead with plug, but the one on the bell-housing is just a socket which isn't even listed for the car.
Any ideas please? it's my work vehicle and times are tough, (my customer picked me up to finish the job! (SOOO embarrassing.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
further info,, the RAC did a battery swap without reboot procedure
I was looking at getting a de-mobilised ecu but am told that there's no point as the immobiliser is built into the pump. at least I've got the car back home now (trailered) It seems I have to hot wire the feul switch on the pump that is allegedly behind the cover on the end!
Any idea what this is in pic? fuel switch?? Cheers.
90025
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,567 Posts
Its mechanical injection on that engine so no crank sensor to worry about. The immobiliser just operates on the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump.

The normal bypass is to just remove the metal cover from the solenoid if fitted and wire an ignition switched 12v feed direct to the solenoid.

Have you checked cam belt etc

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Its mechanical injection on that engine so no crank sensor to worry about. The immobiliser just operates on the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump.

The normal bypass is to just remove the metal cover from the solenoid if fitted and wire an ignition switched 12v feed direct to the solenoid.

Have you checked cam belt etc

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
new cambelt 13 months ago and yep, all's okay RAC and Garage have checked too.
So that's not the solenoid highlighted then?
is that the cover up to the left? 'cos it does have shear bolt fitted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
there's three wires coming out of the armour, two have voltage one doesn't. I don't want to damage anything, would I if I put voltage to the dead wire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Hi Windy1603, thanks, I can't see a link for a video,
Today I've had a new battery delivered and have got one of the shear bolts out, I'm half way through getting the bracket off. They really don't want that cover coming off do they! they've thrown torx bolts, allen bolts and hex bolts at it tucked in behind the pipework so that that has to come off too. I guess the roll pin has something to do with not getting it off as well so that'll have to come out too.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,567 Posts
Sorry added link now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, I've seen that vid before (I've been googling everything related) Although the worst audio ever it is beginning to make sense. I'll know more tomoz and hopefully get her off furlough.
Cheers Budd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well,, Job done! Peugeot really don't want anyone to get into that box.
I mutilated the top shear bolt with a grind stone in a Dremmel (three actually 'cos it's some darned tough metal) The bottom shear bolt took me two hours to get out! I removed 3 injector pipes that were in the way and the 'Extension'(?) with the valve in it nearest the bottom shear bolt. I drilled into the head of the bolt with first a pilot hole and then ended with a 4.5mm bit (you cant go very far in because the head is soft but about 4mm in it's hardened steel) I then used a stud extractor which worked very well even though it wasn't quite central.
Both brackets have to come off.
The roll pin is a female dog! I ended cutting each side of it with a disk cutter after removing the throttle bracket.
The armor came off in one piece after that and I filled the slot with araldite (looks okay)
the unit was still in one piece in there so after unhooking the connector to the solenoid I chopped the wires
I plugged the cable back in and tested for power, just like the video purple and black seemed favourite. Soldered and shrink wrapped to the solenoid connector and put everything back on apart from the front bracket
Bled the pump by loosening the top banjo, tightened, and then hit the ignition! 5 seconds later she coughed into life. checked for leaks and went for a run. checked for leaks on return and turned her off! Time to get back to work 10 days off is more than enough.
Thanks to all for your input on this Job, Very much appreciated.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top