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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone

I will be doing abit of work on my 307, hopefully I can become more experienced with car repair and ultimately save alot of money.

if anyone has any advice about the 1.6 please feel free;

the car is cosmetically challenged but I am not worried about that for now.


engine bay is full of oil, so I may look into cleaning the entire thing
if there is a leak it is a very small one.

I will need to get a wheel bearing off somehow aswell, should be fun.
Engine mounts may need doing,
Some suspension parts which I am fine with.
Vibration in clutch :(, hopefully this is the engine mounts causing the vibration
It has a weird problem with the cruise control tripping off when the turbo kicks in

other minor bits




I want to try my hand at the timing belt and water pump at some point.

Rear wiper motor has a mind of it's own, I am going to refurbish it at some point

Other than that it's a dream and I am enjoying the 307
 

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Suspension should be easy.
Wheel bearings usually need a press - be aware that front bearings may have the ABS sensor ring built into the inner seal, so they cost about £80, you have to insert them the right way round, and you really need to use a press and suitable adapter because if you go hammering the bearing in there is a good chance you will damage the sensor ring...
Oil leak - don't ask me, I never seemto be able to cure them!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Suspension should be easy.
Wheel bearings usually need a press - be aware that front bearings may have the ABS sensor ring built into the inner seal, so they cost about £80, you have to insert them the right way round, and you really need to use a press and suitable adapter because if you go hammering the bearing in there is a good chance you will damage the sensor ring...
Oil leak - don't ask me, I never seemto be able to cure them!
I have ordered a full hub for the back, £47 at carparts4less but Eurocarparts are price matching it

Which wheel bearing is it? I have a spare hub assy for the front drivers side complete with good bearing and new lower ball joint if you are interested.PM me if you do.
I'ts rear mate, all i need for suspension is track rod ends and anti roll bar links. I will leave these to see what the actual MOT test says as they seem ok to me

Plugged obd scanner it and it has P0401, P0409, P1459, P0490

Going to give some EGR air intake cleaner a try, some chap on youtube has a nice video where he is able to spray it through the air temp sensor hole.

it also has P1351 so this will need looking at as soon as MOT has been done, chap at work reckons that glow plugs may just need a clean but I will see about testing them while they are out. hopefully this can be done with multimeter

rgds
 

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Your car needs working glow plugs for the regeneration system to work. Continuity check each one to ensure they have not gone open circuit. They often do by the way and are a pain to replace! Their resistance value is very low as they are basically just a miniature heater element.
 

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Your car needs working glow plugs for the regeneration system to work. Continuity check each one to ensure they have not gone open circuit. They often do by the way and are a pain to replace! Their resistance value is very low as they are basically just a miniature heater element.
thanks mate I am aware of this.

FYI to anyone reading rear hub nut is 35mm and the aftermarket one I am putting on is 32mm

What is the deal with diesel EGR cleaner being sold out everywhere, 3 halfrords and 2 euro car parts none in stock. so reserved one a good 10mile drive away and they had sold it by the time i got there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ordered the wrong part/hub, should of done my research sooner.
some axels are 25mm and some are 30mm.

Mine should be 25, but i'm going to measure tomorrow before I get the right part.
I needed a brake disk aswell so I might aswell order the disk/ bearing.


Furthermore, ran some EGR cleaner through the air doser,
it made some right noises while idleing and and spraying 1 second bursts

had to get revs upto between 1-1.5k, then took it for a 10 mile drive.
I didn't remove the air filter, I'm hoping that this doesn't matter where I am spraying it?

seems better, I will see if codes are clear tomorrow.
 

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Oil is probably the injectors looking oil it’s a common issue

Make sure the bolts are tight for the injectors they shouldn’t be that tight but you may find them loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The torque on them is only 5lbft so generally when they go loose the injector needs pulling and the seals need changing. There is a plastic type guard in there that can break as well as the copper seal and o ring. getting the injectors out is a ball of fun by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oil is probably the injectors looking oil it’s a common issue

Make sure the bolts are tight for the injectors they shouldn’t be that tight but you may find them loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The torque on them is only 5lbft so generally when they go loose the injector needs pulling and the seals need changing. There is a plastic type guard in there that can break as well as the copper seal and o ring. getting the injectors out is a ball of fun by the way!
thanks both, I will give this a go after the MOT
 
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