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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting to wish I hadn't bought my 307 1.6 110 hdi now.

I have read up on most of these on the forums and just wanted a last bit of clarification as I like to worry myself.

My turbo has developed a loud whistle, I have read that this is ok as it only does it when accelerating and driving at higher revs but just wanted clarification.

Since getting the glow plugs done which required a full engine stripdown, cam belt and oil change I have lost around 5mpg. Any idea what could have caused this? Also after about a month it developed a rattle, which I think is a heat shield or something as it is not effecting how the car drives.

Also my break lights seem to only work when they want to. This morning they worked fine but last night when I noticed, they work fine some of the time but other times it takes a good 3 seconds to come on. Could this be the switch behind the brake peddle or is there chance water is getting into the system somehow?

Forgot to add that if I go through a puddle, as the car has not got an engine protector thing, the car won't accelerate for a few seconds, guessing that is water getting in and draining back out again/drying out. That I need a new thingy.

Thank you to anyone who offers me any assistance.
 

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The whistle could be a turbo boost hose leak under load which is why you don't hear it on deceleration! As for the strip down and rebuild to change glow plugs, I'm guessing the garage you used snapped them off in the cylinder head, hence the new gaskets and belts being required as the head needed removing to get the snapped glow plugs out!

How this is effecting your fuel consumption is down to the combination of the engine rebuild not having been done to the best standard and either the engine's valve timing is slightly out or your engine's compression is down after they've refitted the cylinder head and new gasket.

The boost leak/turbo whistle could also be a contributing factor as this will also effect the engines performance and efficiency!

The rattle, as you've said could be a heat shield.
What sort of rattle is it ?? Loud, quiet, metallic, plastic???

My 2.0l 16v petrol 307 has a heat shield rattle from the exhaust under acceleration and constant held high revs, which is a tinny echoing rattle as the exhaust resonates it!!

Brake lights tend to work or not work! Clearly the bulbs are fine, so it's going to be switch related, but then it depends on how quickly you apply the pedal to how quickly the light illuminate. You can if very light on the pedal be braking softly and never have the brake lights come on!!

I think the switch also runs through the bsi control unit too as that controls most of the lights and electronics! If you brake really hard do your hazards come on automatically and the brake lights still work???

As for the puddle issue, that sounds like water ingress into either 1 or many of the sensors or into the engine loom or even the ecu! That's a job for an auto electrician to find that fault, which will be hard as he can't be under the bonnet when you drive through puddles!!!

As you car is controlled by fly by wire throttle, not a throttle cable, my first port of call would be the throttle position switch on the intake pipework or the connection to the injection system! Or even the Mass Air Flow or MAF sensor near the filter housing!!

That's about all the info I can give you as I don't have an hdi or have worked on one, but I'm a mechanic and do work on diesels and petrols alike and own a 307.


307dan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you for your reply.

The whistle has only happened over the past couple of days where as I had the glow plugs done back in November.

I tried to change the glow plugs originally and snapped one off so got a mechanic out to change the other one and extract the one I broke but he managed to break the last one too. He said an engine rebuild would be the best option once 2 were snapped.

The rattle only seems to happen once the engine has warmed up and then it is quite a loud metallic one. Like I said it hasn't effected power so haven't been too worried about it.

The brake lights last night I only noticed because I backed up to a shop front and saw my brake lights didn't come on in their window. I then tried them again and they worked straight away. I then pushed a couple more times and they stopped working again so I held my foot on the brakes and after around 3 seconds they came on so think I have a dodgy connection somewhere.

I am planning on linking planet up to it tonight but can't find my extension lead.

Otherwise anyone know of a decent Peugeot mechanic in South Derbyshire/Derby?
 

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Concerning the brake light, are the actuator and switch in good contact? Maybe the switch
is worn, a new one is a cheap enough tryout.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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The brake switch are known to fail, they are cheap and easy to change, get it done before someone runs you over because he don't see you braking.


Holt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Completely agree with you there Holt its just trying to find somewhere open on a Sunday that does them.
 

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Your old switch can be taken apart and cleaned, it wont last very long, but surely until you get a new one.






Holt
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yo exiled, Peugeot parts, dealer gets overnight restock service. Some orders need to be prepaid. post your RPO number and i'll retreive part number and cost for you
I had a look and it the one with green on. Just to get part number though RPO is 1058789. Thank you for your help
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also took some of the pipes off my turbo today and found that I have a lot of oil in my pipes. So the list of things is going up.
 

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You will always get some oil in the intake hoses on turbo Diesel engine, but how much is a lot?? When were the hoses last cleaned and how much end float does the turbo shaft have that could be causing enough movement inside the turbo housing to cause the oil seals to leak!! TBH I'd be going back to your mechanic with a lot of these engine faults since they've only occurred since he had the head off!! Brake switch maybe not his fault though!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You will always get some oil in the intake hoses on turbo Diesel engine, but how much is a lot?? When were the hoses last cleaned and how much end float does the turbo shaft have that could be causing enough movement inside the turbo housing to cause the oil seals to leak!! TBH I'd be going back to your mechanic with a lot of these engine faults since they've only occurred since he had the head off!! Brake switch maybe not his fault though!!
By a lot the pipes were lined. Checked the feed into intercooler and feed out and these had a fair bit in plus the feed into the turbo. There wasn't much play in the shaft though (these are things that my little brother told me as he is better with cars)

I don't think it's him. He has just helped another problem come about by fixing the glow plugs.

I had the usual dpf issue so was changing the glow plugs as these were faulty too. I did a scan yesterday and the faults I got back were P0100, P0103 and P0420. Not 100% sure what these mean.
 

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How's this;
P0100 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit Malfunction
EDC15C2 - Flow sensor signal. Open circuit or short to earth / short to positive

P0103 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit High Input

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
Bosch ME746 - Front pre-catalyser. Ageing. (Front bank on PSA V6)
MM48P - Catalytic converter ageing.
EDC16C3/34 - Particle filter. PEF overloaded.
 

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Unless it's breathing heavy and your air filter is soaked in oil, the only place it's coming from is the turbo!!! You always get a slight mist of oil but it shouldn't fill the hoses or inter cooler up!! I'd say turbo oil seals gone, if it were exhaust full of oil it'd be something like head or block problems but intake it most likely is turbo!! Just wouldn't be happy myself that after someone has done that work that a load of problems occur, I'd go back to him myself!

307dan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Air filter is behind the engine in the box that disassembles? I shall check that later.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Took the car into a garage yesterday. None of it good news.

The car had ran out of Eloys, don't know how long ago so this is what has caused the DPF to clog. I thought you got an alarm when this was low. He mentioned this could have broke the pump on the tank. So that means the DPF is well and truly clogged and this has caused the turbo to fail. There is a bit of play in the turbo spindle too so hoping that wont go.

He said this will cost around £1000 if all goes well but could be up to 2. I don't know what to do. Thinking of just getting rid of the car now and getting a new one(not a 1.6 307 though).
 
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