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Yes pump could be dead but check supply at terminals on pump just in case they are playing up to. Drain old fuel and fill with new clean stuff. Try restarting but a reset would not hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Have changed over the fuel pump and can now hear it working,as opposed to previously.
Still not cranking over. Still no beep from the beep test. Took the key and fob to a locksmith today and he says it has not lost its program. So why is there no beep?
Next I will do a BSI reset and see what that achieves.
Frustrating thing is that nothing I do seems to have a positive effect.
Is there such a thing as a 307 that cannot be fixed?
Bobbo
 

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Earlier you said it cranked over but not firing up. You also said that it runs if fuel poured into the intake. So basically the engine and all its bits work and the fault lies with the fuel system. Try blowing the fuel feed pipe through from the tank to the throttle housing after disconnecting each end. You also said you had the beep earlier so whatever you are doing is causing confusion. Best to concentrate on the fuel supply for now but also revisit all the fuses on the car. There are some in the parcel shelf area.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for the replies guys,very helpful. I would never be able to sort this thing on my own. To update: did a BSI reset 3 times ,didn’t seem to change anything, but some time later I tried a start and the motor cranked and STARTED. Would run at 2500 rpm but would not idle which I am still putting down to this old fuel. After this no more starter engagement. Can this be an ECU somewhere or could it be as simple as a faulty connection. I have only found 3 earths which I have cleaned.
Madb. Cannot find any faulty fuses. Next job is flush the fuel system as you suggested.
Noddy-h. Still no beep . I only have one key and fob for the vehicle. I have a fob from another 307, but locksmith tells me once they are programmed to a particular vehicle they can never be re-programmed to another vehicle. Is this right? I also have had a key without any electronics cut so I can always get into the vehicle if locked out.
Bobbo.
 

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Your all over the place with this
Key cannot be properly checked away from the car it is the matching of key to car the beep test is checking checking the key externally only tells you it should work not that it DOES work

Running at 2500 revs sounds like its possibly drawing in air making the mixture too lean at idle or possibly a timing issue.

If a BSI rest is done no point in doing it over and over again im still not convinced your key is ok does the car beep if you leave sidelights on and open door infact does interior light come on when you open door ?
 

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Hi Bobbo, greetings from your national capital.
I got given a 2002 206 - like you my first Peugeot. It had an aftermarket central locking system on it, and the beep test didn't work because the wire sending the signal saying the door was open had been cut.
So even though the BSI was registering the key, it didn't beep with the door open because it didn't know the door was open.
Do you get any other indication the drivers door is open - i.e. courtesy light comes on, or message on the MFD?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks R406 and Danger
Where would you suggest to look for an air leak, would say an inlet manifold gasket leaking cause a lean mixture given we are talking about a fuel injected motor?
There is no beep when the sidelights are left on, nor does the interior light come on when the door is opened. However, the window drops about 25mm when a hand is placed in the external door handle, but not in the interior door handle. The window cannot be operated manually.
No messages displayed, but the central display on the top of the dashboard (MFD??) displays an old date /time/ temperature in flashing mode when the ignition is turned on.
 

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Window dropping is normal it only does that because it sees your hand this is built in to software to stop the door sticking when you open it
Sounds like your beeper is broke !

Air leak on these can be various things im not saying it is but it sounds possible
 

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Discussion Starter #30
When you say “beeper is broke” where do I find it and how do I fix it? Yes, understand the reason for the window dropping,but wondered if the fact that it didn’t do it when the interior door handle was used indicated anything about the electronics generally.
My problem at the moment is the inability of motor to crank over.
Bobbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Checked that fuse several times, even replaced it with a new one without success.
Replaced the rh door switch and windows and mirrors are now all fine, but nothing else has changed.
At the risk of creating thread drift, I have to post on this site using an iPad. When I try to use my desktop computer I am unable to post. Nor can I find a way to sign in. What goes on?
Bobbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks madb. Have determined that when the key is turned to the start position no current comes to the solenoid terminal. Have not as yet applied slave current to the solenoid as I am fearful of current backtracking to the electronics. This can be solved by disconnecting the wire at the solenoid, but due to its location have not been able to achieve that yet.
Can backtracking in this instance be a problem?
 

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The trigger wire for the starter goes to the BSM just feed it there but if your starter is not triggering when your posts seem to indicate it was then it definately sounds like an earth wire issue somewhere.
 

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As reliable406 states you were getting it to start when you poured fuel in the intake but now it seems the defect has changed as there is no feed to the starter! It is confusing to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Fed current to the solenoid wire up at the fuse box and motor cranks over fine. Cannot understand why the beep test does not operate, ( key or vehicle) and whether that is the root cause of my issue.
 

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If the beeper is broke which does happen then the beep test wont work anyway !
The beep test tels you the key is being seen thats why we do it without the beeper the only way to know is with a proper diagnostic computer looking at the data stream for the immobiliser if key is not seen it simply wont start testing the key away from the car tells you ONLY that the key should work not that it is paired to the car.
 

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Hey Bobbo, just a thought. Maybe your 'adding a few extra fuses' in the vacant spots has caused some of the 'possessed' style behaviours. You might have made some connections that were never meant to be there.

Can't say for sure without analysing the wiring diagram.

Your story is an intriguing one to say the least.
 
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