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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My first post here, I've been trying to diagnose something for a couple of weeks and my local garage don't have anything to suggest and I wanted to make sure I'd covered all bases before having to take it to a main dealer馃様 I'm not too bad mechanically but I'm no expert when it comes to auto electrics, so apologies if I've missed something or doesn't sound right.

I have P0100 fault code coming up which is mass or volume air flow sensor 'A' circuit, believe it's a sensor or circuit fault or a short or open from what I've found on Google. I started by cleaning the sensor and harness connector which didn't make a difference, so I replaced the MAF sensor, cleared the faults and it just re-appeared as soon as the ignition turned over, one thing I have noticed is that with both sensors, the live data was was reporting the air temperature correctly but the air flow rate stuck at 0 G/S when the engine was running. So I gave the harness a good shake while watching the live data and this didn't change, I've not completely stripped it back to the ECU as I wanted to see if I'm in the right direction and this is what needs to be done beforehand? I've opened up the plastic coating and can't see any damage to the harness connector or the 4 wires as far as I can trace it before it merges into the other wires to the ECU. I've tested the voltage using a multimeter, which I know it probably is a frequency so I'd need an oscillosope however I don't have one, but would've thought I'd still see a ground, 2 varying and 1 live, when I tested with the engine running I seem to get 2 varying, one 12v and one around 7v... should one read 0.00 as I thought one would be ground? I'm struggling to find any real wiring information for the MAF sensor harness so I'm not even sure what these should be. The only other thing that doesn't backup my conclusion is that if there was no ground I'd expect the temperature wouldn't work, which it definitely does as while the engine is running it's reading around 12 degrees, if i unplug it I get -40 degrees and it goes red...

Also, I have checked the fuses using a multimeter, I believe it's 35 which it shares with the reversing lights and also these work!

I'm at a bit of a loss except stripping everything back and checking, so just wondered if anyone had this issue or would have a guess by what i've described. I must say the van doesn't appear to have any issues with starting or poor MPG, getting about 37MPG, but I need to fix for the MOT as the MIL light status is on and it's a 2009 van which needs requires the MIL light to work and not be on. And also it's just bugging me...馃槥

Any help would be much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also sorry, was trying to get everything in and just remembered two more things, not sure wether they're relevant.

1) I seem to lose oil slowly when driving, I know this is normal but I think it's over the 1 Litre per 1000 miles or whatever it generally is.

2) I do have another code, U1601 which just shows as 'Fault: CAN' the garage did say they thought that was immobiliser and that they imagine it will be there because of p0100 being present.
 

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If its the same engine as what's in the 308 and chain driven, then 1 litre of oil per 1000 miles is common.

Needs a Planet diagnostic to accurately get fault codes


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If its the same engine as what's in the 308 and chain driven, then 1 litre of oil per 1000 miles is common.

Needs a Planet diagnostic to accurately get fault codes


Ah thought it was something around there! I believe it may be a little more, but I will confirm this! Thanks for the reply, I have ordered a copy of diagbox and the lexia, but waiting on it to be delivered :cautious: will update with readings from there also once received!
 

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Hi Ash32152,

Do the ecu pins look okay?, I mean I dont know if that been unplugged recently but I have seen broken and bent pins when a customer came in one day for a remap since they had one elsewhere and had a few issues, as we went to hook up the ecu to bench it the pin was already bent & half broken,so we replaced the pin. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Ash32152,

Do the ecu pins look okay?, I mean I dont know if that been unplugged recently but I have seen broken and bent pins when a customer came in one day for a remap since they had one elsewhere and had a few issues, as we went to hook up the ecu to bench it the pin was already bent & half broken,so we replaced the pin. Hope this helps
Hi Tee,

Thanks for the suggestion, if i'm completeley honest I've not checked yet! I'll take a look when I can get the ECU out and see, think there's a few bits to take off to get to it.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So! I got the lexia cable and installed Diagbox with PP, I ran a global test and had quite a few faults, I cleared all of them as I've not had the van long so don't know how recent these could've been, turned the engine on, drove it round the block and ran the global test again after, these were my results!
 

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I would have a good look at the loom from the maf back to the ecu.

Your log shows a Puma engine fitted and they have known problems with looms chaffing

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would have a good look at the loom from the maf back to the ecu.

Your log shows a Puma engine fitted and they have known problems with looms chaffing

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
Thanks Windy! Have had a quick visual inspection where I could open the plastic cover for the loom wires and looked ok, but will cut it open all the way and trace back properly!:D
 
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