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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
MAF or EGR, neither, loose turbo exhaust clamp

After cleaning my DPF, fitting new glow plugs and cleaning MAF my mpg has dropped to 32mpg on my 1.6HDI. Also get a fair amount of smoke at times under 2000rpm and think loss of power too.
I have read that the MAF is a flap type and not a hot wire, is this true.
Erom looking backn through posts and speeking to a mate, think its possibly the EGR valve.
Seems there are 2 long bolts that hold it to the back of the block, but how dose the pipe that goes to the inlet undo from the valve.
Dose it work on vacume or is it controlled electronicly, and is there a way for me to test it once its off.
Whats the procedure for cleaning it our, just spraying with carb/brake cleaner.

Also, I havnt told the system it has a new DPF yet, could this be the cause?
 

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These don't use the VAF's, they're old, and crap.

It's a conventional MAF.

The heat exchanger connecting to the EGR Valve usually has a dodgy clasp that pings apart, you'll probably need to replace it with a new EGR Clamp from peugeot for about £10.

The 407 is easier to work on with the EGR, you can take off the induction pipes, and then the bracket (3 bolts) holding the fuel filter in place can come off and if memory serves me well you can get to the 3 screws holding the solenoid to the valve off*.

That is where the bulk of the cleaning is required. Should you want to take the valve off too, it's quite easy from this point.

It's not worth taking the heat exchanger off, it's a complete wanker and a waste of time, if you REALLY want to clean it out you can disconnect the inlet manifold side, and bung the inlet manifold up and then use an airline to blow it out.

The EGR on the 1.6 is electronically driven, if you have PP2000 you can do an actuator test on it to see it in motion to make sure it's not sticking etc.

* The solenoid bolts on untouched EGR valves are usually tight and sheer really easily, also one of them is filled with a weird gum so you can't get a Torx drive in until it's been cleaned up. At this point it's best to take it off complete and stick it in a vice to work on the bolts. I used a mini pipe wrench on my old EGR to remove the bolts. On my new one, before I fitted it, I cut down the middle so I could get a meaty flat blade on them.

EGR <- a few pictures I took when doing mine this time around.
 
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The MAF is a wire inside the plastic case.... you should see it after the air filter :nod:

The EGR has bolts holding each pipe on.
They are electronically controlled (plug on the side).
Once removed, give it a good clean with carb cleaner and check it moves freely.
 

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On petrol the EGR doesn't have a pipe, just electric connection to the top and it bolts direct to engine block.
Undo both bolts, remove connection and remove EGR.
cleaning is mostly a case of carb cleaner, give it a real good dose and leave it to soak. Then give it another Good go.
No way I know of of testing off the car....on an Astra you can disconnect and test with little to no harm, but on one of these I think it automatically goes into limp mode and so you can't do that.
You could block off the outlet from the block but leave the egr connected ( you can buy blanking plates) this will throw the depolution warning up but might give you an idea of if the car runs better without the egr. Other people here will know for sure!
Maf sense on a petrol is at front on engine, held in with single screw and electric connection. About 50 quid for a new unit and two mins to swap. But that depends on your engine as well, again other will know more.
EGR swap/ clean is a five min job.
 
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The EGR for the 1.6 looks quite a bit different to the internals on the 2.0 there Phil... amazed me really, would think they would work off the same principle.
 

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The EGR for the 1.6 looks quite a bit different to the internals on the 2.0 there Phil... amazed me really, would think they would work off the same principle.
Unfortunately the 1.6HDI EGR is a step up technology wise, and is also deeply integrated, so no tricking it! By the nature of it's design though, it seems to clog up pretty quickly even though it will be 'OK' for a while.

Elaborating slightly, it only takes around 5,000 miles for it to diminish overall performance after a good clean! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the posts.
Had my mates Snap On Solus Pro on it tonight, showing no fault on the EGR system, I will whip it off soon and give it a clean out anyway as its done 133,000 miles now.
Had a look through all the functions and it looks like the Solus Pro dose all that the PP2000/Lexia 3 can do, but at a much higher price!:lol:

Phil: looks like a bolt on clamp in the pictures, is that the newer £10 one?
 

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Thanks for all the posts.
Had my mates Snap On Solus Pro on it tonight, showing no fault on the EGR system, I will whip it off soon and give it a clean out anyway as its done 133,000 miles now.
Had a look through all the functions and it looks like the Solus Pro dose all that the PP2000/Lexia 3 can do, but at a much higher price!:lol:

Phil: looks like a bolt on clamp in the pictures, is that the newer £10 one?
Yeah, that's the new one, and they're fragile!

Also, there is no substitute for PP2000, honestly there just isn't.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I read through the past posts and found one on MAF that says unplug while the engine is running and it should cut out, mine keep running as normal. I've seen that Euro Car Parts do 2 types of MAF, either any good or would I be better getting a new one from main agent if I replace it. Any idea on price?
Engine Management Sensor | Engine Management Sensors for any car

My mpg has dropped a bit in the last year, and a fair bit after working on it this weekend. Im asuming that this is the only thing that the fuel stratagy and there are no O2 sensors like a petrol engine.
 

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I read through the past posts and found one on MAF that says unplug while the engine is running and it should cut out, mine keep running as normal. I've seen that Euro Car Parts do 2 types of MAF, either any good or would I be better getting a new one from main agent if I replace it. Any idea on price?
Engine Management Sensor | Engine Management Sensors for any car

My mpg has dropped a bit in the last year, and a fair bit after working on it this weekend. Im asuming that this is the only thing that the fuel stratagy and there are no O2 sensors like a petrol engine.
Diesels don't cut out when you disconnect the MAF. You need the car read by PP2000 to compare the MAF's values to the reference values, and to get an idea of what it's doing wrong, if anything.

Don't forget the EGR accounts for about 50% of your airintake at certain points, if this is choking your engine your MAF will appear faulty because the fresh air intake will be lower than expected throwing off fuelling.

You also should get it on PP2000 to tell it you've cleaned the DPF, and monitor it's load levels and check the differential pressure figures.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks for info, seems im getting more smoke at about 2000rpm.
DPF is showing 22% load and system has been told its has been cleaned. Shows regeneration just over 100km ago too.
I will look at the EGR first then, clean it b4 looking at replacing MAF, however at 133,000 miles would it be a wise move to replace it with a new one.
 

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Thanks for info, seems im getting more smoke at about 2000rpm.
DPF is showing 22% load and system has been told its has been cleaned. Shows regeneration just over 100km ago too.
I will look at the EGR first then, clean it b4 looking at replacing MAF, however at 133,000 miles would it be a wise move to replace it with a new one.
I've done a similar amount of miles and my MAF is still going well. I wouldn't of thought it would need replacing until it's certified as being problematic.

Would be worth checking your Turbo Boost values vs the reference value in planet also, if that's a little on the low side you will start to smoke at the point it's expected to start boosting (around 1750rpm).

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Im using a Snap On Solus pro so have no referance values to go by, and not driven with Solus connected so I've not got any values. Read it needs to be getting 2 bar, is that right?
Actuator is moving down when I start the engine, is this opening or closing the waste gate?
I rearly need to get Planet, but I need an XP laptop to run it as both mine are Vista, have a desk top which I could use, just won't be able to drive with it connected.
 

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Im using a Snap On Solus pro so have no referance values to go by, and not driven with Solus connected so I've not got any values. Read it needs to be getting 2 bar, is that right?
Actuator is moving down when I start the engine, is this opening or closing the waste gate?
I rearly need to get Planet, but I need an XP laptop to run it as both mine are Vista, have a desk top which I could use, just won't be able to drive with it connected.
I forgot to ask, are you rocking the 110 or the 90?
 

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ive got the wee 110.
Ok, the 110 doesn't have a wastegate, it uses Variable Vanes to control boost which are controlled by a vacuum.

Check for actuator movement when revving the engine, it should move.

I believe without vacuum the vanes are 'closed' and provide little to no boost until high in the rev range.

With vacuum, as observed when starting the car, the vanes 'open' and allow boost at lower end of the rev range, as you rev harder the vanes 'close' to control the boost.

We need reference and live boost figures from PP2000 to determine if this is your problem, if it is then it could be a weak vacuum, dodgy boost solenoid (not terribly uncommon) or just sticky vanes, since they're exhaust side they do get caked in soot.

Live boost figures can be done at idle.

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/407-41/measured-boost-values-17530/ <- This thread might help slightly.

Top one is Atmospheric, next is Reference, third one is actual.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I had been told they were vairiable vane turbos in the 1.6, is this why they are prone to soot on the outside.
Looks like its has a waste gate arm and actuator like a normal turbo, is this correct Phil.
What would I need to do if the vanes are sticking, i dont want to be stripping a turbo.
Not looked, but can i rev the engine from under the bonnet, as I may not have a helper available.
I'll take it for a spin with the Solus on compare those readings, might show that on the hand held Gengan I have. I would asume that the toolonly tells what the sensors on the car read.

Remember, this problem only started after the work I did at the weekend, so I dont thinking its a turbo problem.
Local dealer has the EGR clamp and gasket, so that will be my next job this weekend.
 
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