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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I know this has been captured in various threads but i wanted to start a new thread.

Whenever my engine temperature rise to 90 (generally in slow traffic low gears)........i start getting the dreaded engine oil pressure sign for less than a second and couple of beeps !

Everything is fine when i drive at higher speeds and temperature is below 90.

What can be the issue ? Where can i start looking at ? Car drives fine otherwise !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you sure it's pressure and not temp?

If it is pressure, then as the oil heats up, it become thinner and can contribute to lower pressure.

When did it have it's last oil and filter change? Are you using good quality oil?
Car is due servicing next month...will get it done...i had just topped up using total quartz 5w40 couple of months back...

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The symptoms you describe sound like the engine is overheating - when the car isn't moving particularly quickly the cooling system isn't working as efficiently.

Either that or the temp sensor or thermostat are defective.

It might be worth getting it on PP2000 to see if there are any clues to what exactly the issue is.

Live data will confirm whether the temp or the pressure is in question.

What engine is your car? There might be a pressure switch which may be defective, or there could be a genuine pressure issue.

Like I said, live data should help
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The symptoms you describe sound like the engine is overheating - when the car isn't moving particularly quickly the cooling system isn't working as efficiently.

Either that or the temp sensor or thermostat are defective.

It might be worth getting it on PP2000 to see if there are any clues to what exactly the issue is.

Live data will confirm whether the temp or the pressure is in question.

What engine is your car? There might be a pressure switch which may be defective, or there could be a genuine pressure issue.

Like I said, live data should help
Its 1.4 16 v petrol....i have some leaking coolant issue...

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Discussion Starter #6
When shall radiator fan kick in ? I do not see it kicking at 90...

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Discussion Starter #8
First job is to fix the leak!!!!!
Just did a pressure check and all ok....no leaks...it seems coolant flows out from radiator when i open the cap to top it...

So will change oil and filter....can anyone tell me how can i check that fans in radiator are working ?

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So you've done a pressure test, and there is no leak. But, you said that there is a leak before you've done a test.

Is there visual evidence of a leak (ie. spots of coolant on the ground when it's parked up)?

You can test the fans on PP2000, as suggested. The relays are known to suffer from corroded pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So you've done a pressure test, and there is no leak. But, you said that there is a leak before you've done a test.

Is there visual evidence of a leak (ie. spots of coolant on the ground when it's parked up)?

You can test the fans on PP2000, as suggested. The relays are known to suffer from corroded pins.
I had opened coolant tank for top up which resulted in some coolant leaking....last 7 days no leaks....did a pressure test which showed no leaks either...i think oil filter and oil change should sort it...

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Jimmy pp2000 only shows the data as in" is the fan working or not" so it is a yes or no. It will not show a defect as such. My cars long running limp mode saga is boiling down to a fault in the low speed fan circuit but I have tested all the relays, wire continuity and the fan itself and all is fine. I traced all the wires to and from the disconnects to ensure they were correct and had continuity. There was no sign of corrosion anywhere. When running the engine sits at 80 and sometimes in traffic it will climb to 85 and then drop back to 80. It has never displayed 90. In fact when I got the car the needle never worked at all and I found the thermostat stuck half open and so I replaced the thermostat unit complete with sensor and all indications have been fine since. The fan does not get switched on and so the live data will show fan not working. What he means, I think, is is there a way to get the fan to work through the pp2k as in overriding the ecu control to check that the control circuit and all is OK. I hope so as this snag is really getting a pain. I am go going to take the bumper off again and wee megger all the wires, that is after I have replaced the valve stem seals on the daughter in laws Seat Altea.
 

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If you have got coolant in your radiator & not just water, check all your pipes for white marks.
White marks will indicate a leak.

On older model cars I would disconnect the two wires that are connected to the thermostat in the radiator, bridge them, then turn the car on. (you don't have to start the car).
your fan should start running.
Just check with the other guys if it is okay to do this test on your vehicle.

If the fan is working, remove the thermostat in the radiator, connect a wire to each terminal & insulate them that the wire doesn't make contact with water.
Boil some water, put the thermostat in the boiling water & test it for continuity with a multimeter.
If you have got a thermostat that can measure the temp of the water even better, put it in the water aswell.
If you have got continuity let the water cool down naturally & test the vehicles thermostat every few minutes.
Take note of the temp when the continuity tester stops beeping.
That will be the approximate temp your fan starts working.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you have got coolant in your radiator & not just water, check all your pipes for white marks.
White marks will indicate a leak.

On older model cars I would disconnect the two wires that are connected to the thermostat in the radiator, bridge them, then turn the car on. (you don't have to start the car).
your fan should start running.
Just check with the other guys if it is okay to do this test on your vehicle.

If the fan is working, remove the thermostat in the radiator, connect a wire to each terminal & insulate them that the wire doesn't make contact with water.
Boil some water, put the thermostat in the boiling water & test it for continuity with a multimeter.
If you have got a thermostat that can measure the temp of the water even better, put it in the water aswell.
If you have got continuity let the water cool down naturally & test the vehicles thermostat every few minutes.
Take note of the temp when the continuity tester stops beeping.
That will be the approximate temp your fan starts working.
No white marks...where is the thermostat located...

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Jimmy are you saying that in actuator test you can make the fan work even though the trigger temp is not reached?
Yes mate, run a global test, go into engine ecu, and select actuators test. Depending on the model, there will be a selection of actuators that can be tested - mainly relays. PP2000 gets the ECU to send the signal to the relevant solenoid/component and performs the required function to test the circuit is sound.

Sometimes it'll tell you to listen for a "click" when the ecu is sending the signal. But the fan actually powers up as if the temp were 95+, even though the engine is clap cold and not running.

With the cooling fan on my 307 2.0hdi, you could perform the actuator test for both fan speed settings, and the fan would power up and start spinning. It was useful for confirming that the relays were in poor shape and needed cleaning up.

There are actuator tests within other ecu modules, eg. electric windows, warning lights etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have observed i get this when i run car in a higher gear...e.g. Gear is 2 when it should have been 1....it starts beeping..

Same when doing reverse if i release clutch too quickly...

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