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Last night I installed the rear led upgrades brake lights and indicators installed load resistors and tested them all working good as I've installed them before in my 307 the bulbs am using is the osram ones.

I was round showing the brother them tonight as well had the front led h8 kit from osram too these look really smart and crisp I must say down the back roads they do look well.

Anyhow what I noticed was that the passenger side rear lights did not light up if I started the car with the lights already on they would turn out I would then have to turn the lights of then back on again to get them on they were ok before the LEDs install, If I leave the car on auto lights I don't have any issues, any idea guys? I have fixed the passenger side earth issue with a new earth few weeks ago.

Also this might be a silly question but if I get a error on the rear brake lights and dip ones if I installed a load resistor would the resistor burn out from being on all the time at night as the indicators have them they only warm up when used,


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Also this might be a silly question but if I get a error on the rear brake lights and dip ones if I installed a load resistor would the resistor burn out from being on all the time at night as the indicators have them they only warm up when used,
Thanks
They will certainly get hotter as they draw power all the time the related lights are on while, indicators normally only are on only for short periods and even then only about 50% of the time... If they'll burn out or not hinges on their power handling capacity (watt rating) If they were to burn out, you'd get a fault indication if the LED bulb isn't itself drawing enough power(current to satisfy the system that the bulb is OK (which would be why you'd have the resistor there in the first place...)

You might want to step up a notch or two in power handling capacity of the resistors (wattage) - if currently cermet (ceramic/cement) type then maybe go to aluminium housed ones instead, and in either case mount them against body metal, preferably with heat sink paste to make as good contact/heat transfer as possible.

Power drawn by the resistor is supply voltage (about 14V with car running) squared (so 14*14=196) divided by its resistance in Ohms equals power in Watt.
 
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