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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I've been struggling lately with a worn out woodruff key eating up my sprocket

I ordered a new timing kit, (belt + pump), new woodruff key, new crank sprocket and pulley and a new front crank seal :thumb:

removed all the damaged parts, but now i'm stuck at the dreaded woodruff key..

As you can see in the image, it's worn on one side, impossible to pull out with any kind of vice, it just slips and impossible to get a grip due to the smooth slant.

13699367_10155009289482306_2027850108_o.jpg

are there any tricks you guys know about ? i could surely hammer it out but as you see the sleeve from the oil pump gear on the inside is covering the inner half of the key so hammering won't help as it can't rotate freely in it's keyway

What should I do ? is my only choice now to remove the pump sprocket on the inside to get clearance and hammer it out ? please tell give me your wildest ideas, I don't want to remove that unless it's easier than it looks

thanks !: )
 

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I would try to get something under its front edge to lift it out but it all depends how much of the inner gear is touching it it may not have enough clearance they are not usually very tight
 

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They do sometimes come out that way it depends how much of the inner gear is in the way if its half way or less it will come out as the key is curved at bottom so simply rocks out.

looking at the pic i recon too much of it is under the gear though so as it comes up it will jam.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot everyone!, that sucks, guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.

Here's what I imagine I'll be doing

1- remove the casing in front of the sprocket

2- release the tension from the chain / unlink it if it has no tensioner

3- pull out sprocket

4- tap out the woodruff key

After that I'll just do everything in reverse order

Do I have to worry about anything specific? Like oil leaking or anything in there that might need replacement while I'm in there?


Thanks a bunch for the feedback :)
 

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Sadly it is a bit more complicated than that :(

The oil pump is bolted to the bottom of the block inside the sump and to release the chain you will need the pump unbolted this means removing the sump !
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sadly it is a bit more complicated than that :(

The oil pump is bolted to the bottom of the block inside the sump and to release the chain you will need the pump unbolted this means removing the sump !
I had a feeling about that :(, could it be possible to unlink the chain and put it back together when i'm done ? just thinking out loud :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fair enough, that makes sense actually.

One last question, the oil pump is not timed in any way right ? meaning no need to mark where the chain and position was for refitting
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Fixed keyway, more issues now :(

Ok, that took sometime, hardly found any time to work on the car, so had to do the job small parts every couple days.


Here's what i've done:

1-Removed the transmission/exhaust bracket
2-Lowered the exhaust by unbolting the front cat
3-Unbolted and removed the oil sump
4-Unbolted then removed the oil pump
5-Removed the front crank cover (part that has the seal on it)
6-Removed the oil pump sprocket and chain
7-Replaced the woodruff key

Then did all those steps again in reverse order.

While reinstalling eveyrthing, i put in those new parts:

-New timing belt
-New timing belt pulley and tensinoer
-New crank sprocket (to replace the damaged one)
-New woodruff key
-New oil pan gasket (got the rubber OEM part)
-New oil filter
-New oil, obviously :lol:

Filled up the car with the new oil, waited a few mins to see for any oil leaks, everything seemed ok after about 10 mins

Now when I started it up, new problem(s)

1-The idling is horrible, the car will almost stall a few times and the engine sounds like it's misfiring
2-Check engine light is on (It went on before i started the job though, happenned when the key slipped a bit), but i assumed it would go off when the timing is back in place..
3-Anti pollution error is now on (Wasn't there before i started the job, but showed up when i turn the key to ACC while checking the radio and stuff while working, never started the car though)
4-Revving makes the car hesitate up til 2,000RPM , then it revs, but feels a bit constrained
5-After 30-40 seconds of running, I start getting white smoke from the catalytic converter, didn't smell like gas or burn oil, not sure if it smelled sweet either, but it was very white and a bit dense, might be vapor, but i don't know, it didn't smell bad)
6-The car now is turned off again until further inspection

What do you guys think could cause this ? I'm pretty sure I did the timing correct, all marks aligned 100% with their markings on the belt, and crankshaft was pointing 6 o'clock after i tightened the tensioner, i've also removed/installed the belt multiple times before with no issues.

Any tips would be appreciated

I'm planning to setup my laptop again and put it on PP2000 to see if there's anything being thrown and will update you with my findings.

Till then i don't think i'll drive the car, don't feel so safe :(
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Success !

Finally, I got it up and running like a clock !

so what happened is, stupid me got so confident that all timing and everything was in place without starting the car to test before putting everything back.

apparently the timing belt tensioner nut was worn out and became loose when i cranked the engine, luckily not a single tooth skipped !, all i had to do was take off the engine mount again and remove the covers, put in a new nut, tighten it and do a test BEFORE putting everything back, the car hesitated for a few seconds, CEL was on, then suddenly it just clicked and got really quite and idled like it should, put it on PP2000 and the error was about mixture being too rich, reset that, CEL off, drove around town with a stupid smile on my face that i didn't bend valves !:)


Thank you guys for the great tips !
 
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