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Hey guys, hooked up to planet today because the anti-pound sign-pollution fault keeps coming back....ive had it 3 times now. :mad: Car went into limp mode yesterday for the first time. stopped, restarted, car drove fine apart from the light and mfd showing fault....got up this morning, did school run, light still on. got back in after school run, light gone no fault...car runs ok but is a little bit of a powerless dog at mo, which our good friend scottcruz is in the middle of helping with... :cool: now i got two codes on planet, both from the engine ecu, which im gonna give you the whole shebang from planet:-

1st,

p0100. intermittent fault-Air flowmeter signal. open circuit or short circuit to earth. Flow to low.

Engine speed:- 771rpm.
Air flow setting:- 324 mg/impulse.
Air intake flow:- 0 mg/impulse.
Air temp:- 50 degrees c.
Turbo pressure:- 1012 mbars.

Now i did change the M.A.F. sensor twice for ebay rubbish but they just made the car worse and the same fault appeared. so i put the original back in and it drives ok apart from this fault. No the light doesn't come on when i unplug the maf. I do intend on putting a new o.e.m maf on i just cant bring myself to spend over a £100 pounds on a plastic sensor.

2nd,

P1138. Fuel pressure regulator. Switching off of engine requested but regulator still active.

Regulator current:- 294 mA
Pressure regulator ocr:- 2.7%
Fuel tank pressure sensor:- 125 bars
cruise control:- off
Powerlatch:- powerlatch active.
Air con compressor cut off:- Air con cut off inactive.
EGR valve:- not active
Engine speed:- 386rpm.

I have a couple more bits of info to see if theres any problems in the measurements.

Turbo pressure measured:- 1012 mbars
Reference value:- 1129 mbars
Turbo pressure electrovalve ocr:- 88%
measured fuel pressure:- 298 bars.

All i really need to know is what bits to change as i want the car fault free to send a file over to scottcruz for defapping and the like. I know ive probably over detailed a bit, dont crucify me for it.....i thank you all......one last thing.....all the shizzle about the dpf in planet show as fine. Last regen 277km ago, avg between last five regens 766km. additive in the tank, 13g (whatever that means.) Again thanks for the help guys. Oh it's a 2003 307 dturbo rhs. 2.0 110bhp. 8v.
 
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i already cleaned inside with halfords electrical contact cleaner. Do you have image of reg on top of hp pump. thanks....
The regulator is on the end of the pump if its a Bosch unit not on the top. The one on top is the 3rd piston deactivator.

Also get the vacuum circuit checked.
 

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When you changed the MAF did you also swap over the rubber seal? Ebay replacements don't usually come with one.

My 307 was also sluggish and I had the same fault code on Planet. Looking at the inside of the MAF there were two thin wires but one was broken.

Got a new MAF unit from Ebay and it was worse. But then I noticed I'd not swapped over that rubber seal and there wasn't an airtight seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The regulator is on the end of the pump if its a Bosch unit not on the top. The one on top is the 3rd piston deactivator.

Also get the vacuum circuit checked.
Hi david thanks for the reply. would you be able to get me a part number for this regulator so as i can check for a price. is it a case of whipping the old one out and putting a new one in or is there some out of this world crazy procedure needs doing. For the record the light has gone out again. drivin me crazy...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you changed the MAF did you also swap over the rubber seal? Ebay replacements don't usually come with one.

My 307 was also sluggish and I had the same fault code on Planet. Looking at the inside of the MAF there were two thin wires but one was broken.

Got a new MAF unit from Ebay and it was worse. But then I noticed I'd not swapped over that rubber seal and there wasn't an airtight seal.
hey gibbo, yes mate i did swap that rubber ring over...cheers for the reply tho...:thumb:
 
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Hi david thanks for the reply. would you be able to get me a part number for this regulator so as i can check for a price. is it a case of whipping the old one out and putting a new one in or is there some out of this world crazy procedure needs doing. For the record the light has gone out again. drivin me crazy...:D
Can do. Will need the last eight numbers of chassis number.
 

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"P1138. Fuel pressure regulator. Switching off of engine requested but regulator still active.

Regulator current:- 294 mA
Pressure regulator ocr:- 2.7%
Fuel tank pressure sensor:- 125 bars
cruise control:- off
Powerlatch:- powerlatch active.
Air con compressor cut off:- Air con cut off inactive.
EGR valve:- not active
Engine speed:- 386rpm."


Not sure when this code was captured by the OBD, but if the engine wasn't turned off/slowing down when this happened then I would check the engine speed information as well. Could just be that the engine had been switched off but was still rotating when the error was logged? Might be worth a check though.


Cheers,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #12
"P1138. Fuel pressure regulator. Switching off of engine requested but regulator still active.

Regulator current:- 294 mA
Pressure regulator ocr:- 2.7%
Fuel tank pressure sensor:- 125 bars
cruise control:- off
Powerlatch:- powerlatch active.
Air con compressor cut off:- Air con cut off inactive.
EGR valve:- not active
Engine speed:- 386rpm."


Not sure when this code was captured by the OBD, but if the engine wasn't turned off/slowing down when this happened then I would check the engine speed information as well. Could just be that the engine had been switched off but was still rotating when the error was logged? Might be worth a check though.


Cheers,

Mark
I remember when this code was logged....i turned the car off and it sort of limply ran on for about 3-5 seconds. it was only ticking over when i turned it off....i thought it was strange when it happened....how the hell do i get down the back to check all the air pipes as when i stop and tick over it sounds like something is blowing. not a hissy blow but a wop wop blow....lol....i laughed at meself reading that.. it only does it on tickover tho. ......its hard to explain....thanks for the help tho...appreciated...:thumb:
 

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Hmmm, running on in a diesel would usually be caused by injector leakage or burning oil. Is there any blue smoke coming from the exhaust.

What is the fuel rail pressure off idle? You may also be able to measure the vacuum circuit on planet?

Cheers,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmmm, running on in a diesel would usually be caused by injector leakage or burning oil. Is there any blue smoke coming from the exhaust.

What is the fuel rail pressure off idle? You may also be able to measure the vacuum circuit on planet?

Cheers,

Mark
Hi mark, thanks for the help. no there is no blue smoke at all nor any other smoke..The oil hasn't used a drop in 12,000 miles...(It has been changed about 2,000 miles ago but still no consumption)..to be honest the car sort of feels like something not quite connected up right. it feels as though its reluctant on the throttle. would you be able to explain the map for planet to measure those things as i dont know where to find them...would be very helpful. I do have a couple of figures that i read the other day tho could these be related. they are..... Measured fuel pressure:- 298 bars, Diesel pressure regulator current 600.00 ma, also if you read the fault code in o.p. it has some fuel measurements there. i dont know what these numbers should be so cant compare to see if something is wrong there....thanks for the help it is much appreciated. :thumb:
 

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hey, i have been suffering with dog all power and engine manage light...anyways long story short check your hoses. i found a gash 1.5inch long, it was on what i think you call the turbo intake hose...mine was 90degree elbow joint and it split there.

just an idea. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey, i have been suffering with dog all power and engine manage light...anyways long story short check your hoses. i found a gash 1.5inch long, it was on what i think you call the turbo intake hose...mine was 90degree elbow joint and it split there.

just an idea. :thumb:
Hey john can you point me in the direction of "turbo intake hose...mine was 90degree elbow joint and it split there" i don't have a clue where to look for this elbow...i been underneath and reconnected the big fat hoses that come from the turbo. they had somehow slipped off but this was weeks ago and long before the dreaded light came on....car just runs like a dog at mo....thanks for the help john...:thumb:
 

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im not sure on your engine but on mine and a mates golf...it is the big hose, a couple of inches in diameter that leads front to back...the elbow is the bit that curves into your engine....right just before the egr. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
im not sure on your engine but on mine and a mates golf...it is the big hose, a couple of inches in diameter that leads front to back...the elbow is the bit that curves into your engine....right just before the egr. :thumb:
Thanks john but i already tightened all them big fat hoses...well the ones i can get to anyway. The engine is rhs 8v and leans right back....how im meant to get back there to look is beyond me...the egr is another story...just simply cannot find it or dont actually know what im looking for...i presume peugeot buried it out the way down the back with the rest of it.... again thanks for the help....pictures would be fantastic..:thumb:
 

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I don't own a Peugeot planet, so couldn't say for sure where you might find the engine parameters... Possibly under live data or Engine data or something similar?

It's not so much the actual fuel pressure you are looking for, more a changing pressure under driving conditions. For example, 300Bar @ idle, then increasing up to 700Bar @ 2000rpm. You just want to check that the pressure builds, and is stable at constant engine speed.

Quick thought, is the air filter clean?

I think the EGR valve is behind the inlet manifold, see if you can get a mirror and torch to assess condition of the hoses.

Best to try and check the vaccum hoses if you can, before looking to shell out on a regulator. The two fault codes you have seem to go hand in hand. Looking at Google, most people seem to change the lift pump in the tank or the regulator, but deffo get those basic checked first.

HTH,

Cheers,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks mate it does help alot....its helps me to convince myself to sling it on eBay and get a car that actually doesn't feel like your fighting the next break down. i believe it would be a super little car if i could just get it to run right. i think a major problem is most people have got planet but no-one knows what the parameters should be....i think my next step must be a new oem maf. I'm not gonna waste another £40 on eBay rubbish. what are these from stealer's ....
I'm convinced this is an air issue. When i come to a halt and depress the clutch the car sort of changes from a smoother sound to one of a blowing sound....and that pesky diesel knock thats appeared since its not running right....One thing i did want to find out is how do i know if my car has been software updated. what software number should it be on...i found this in planet does this help me determine if it needs a software update??? mfctr:- Bosch, psa ref:- 9646850580, software ref:- 9647472780, software version:- 0200, diag version:- 11. Thanks for the continued help guys it is very much appreciated....:thumb:
 
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