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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of parking up my 307 and ripping it apart to repair ? and keep it as back up wheels and winter motor

So looking at something new to me / different to keep me mobile
Nothing on the drip and that silly rent a car nonsense that you can only drive around the block twice a day for three years or we will charge you extra ..

So obviously looking French, as my last 30years motoring but never Renault ? I don't know why just never interested me

A few 307's have raised my interest more power more gears ? leather seats

So is jumping out of one 307 into another a good step ?

Been looking and there is a few good cars about in my range
Is one 307 ownership enough ?


Don't want the hassle of squeaky flywheels / turbo failure / DPF faults
so looking at older models some may say classic cars but I say just oddball cars that nobody wants as the tax is too costly

When I had a 206cc petrol as a stop gap for a month or two before the tax ran out I think I will be sticking to diesel ... it was a thirsty monster

I only bought the 307 to transfer a private plate I owned that was going to expire ... it was cheap and never drove it 3years ago so hence why I want to keep it and just retain the number on it

So would you buy another 307 ?
Or move on to something else ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seen a few high milers 1.4HDI but already got one with less on miles
Just I need wheels everyday and the only way I am going to get 307 repaired in drips and drabs when / if the sun shines

Do the modern day/ next generation 1.4HDi still have solid flywheel like those in a 207 / 2007 onwards ?

Saw a Mazda 2 that has a Pug 1.4 HDi within ? or has Ford messed with it ?

Just missed out on a Xantia 1.9 TD with really low miles by five minutes
Got to see it when the garage just opened to see it drive away

Just keeping my options open ...
 

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I went from a 307 to a 307! Although the second one was a bit of a nightmare. If you can find a 90 bhp 2.0hdi I'd go for that. Solid flywheel, no dpf. Having said that my first was a 110 hdi and never gave any problems.
 

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My 307 is still going strong (famous last words as MOT imminent...) and have recently been thinking about what i`d replace it with - another 307 i think! (better the devil you know..)
I`ve gotten used to 60mpg and thirty quid a year tax..

Up to what year was the 1.4 hdi 307 made, and was this engine fitted to any other/later models after the 307 was retired?
 

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I would say it very much depends on the mileage and whether it's a diesel. I've owned a 305, 505, 206, 106 and a 307 (the last three at the same time). The 307 (D-Turbo) was the least reliable and not that cheap to run when you take into account the cost of the diesel particulate filter and the fluid needed for it, which is required about every 45000 miles. Mine got through two clutches and flywheels in the first 59k miles. The third clutch (redesigned) kept going - but got very squeaky and I did 180000 miles in the end, mostly motorway, doing 1000 miles a week. But it was often giving problems with the damned sensors. The CD player was replaced twice because it just stopped working. The electronic boot catch, the electric door mirror both needed replacing. In the cold snowy weather one time the nearside rear handbrake froze on. The car failed catastrophically in the end when a small pulley guiding the timing belt sheared off when I was driving at high speed on the A23 dual carriageway - not a nice place to suddenly lose the engine - and that was that. I had the 206 before the 307 and I've still got it today. It's wonderfully reliable, even at 172000 miles, the engine bursts into life at the first touch of the starter, it does 35-40 mpg, even though the gearchange is like stirring a box of spanners. The clutch is getting a bit slippy and I guess it's probably got 10k before game over. The 106 was a great car too, immensely chuckable, simple and reliable. Did 136k in that before rust got the better of it. So, back to topic, no, don't get a 307.
 

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Why not get a newer 308 depends on your budget really

The 2.0 90bhp is a solid bet if you can get a good one

The 2.0 110bhp is better as because it's older no mot station expects it to have a dpf. They can be removed and mapped out for a 15 gallerto cable

I redesigned all my vacuum pipes too which only cost a few quid and a few hours


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My 307 is the one that has had all the work done to it. lol 2.0hdi 110bhp

Polluting I don't know never fails mot so not sure


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I've had a few 307s (three Mk1s, one Mk2 "facelift") and they've been the most reliable model I've ever owned. I've always gone back to them after being disappointed by something newer.

The trick is to make sure you get one that's been looked after, and go for the simplest model. From my experience that's the 90bhp 2L diesel.

My current car is a 308 and its most disappointing compared to the 307. The interior just feels cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I thought my 307 was going to be good one
1 owner from new - ex Post office master ? ( Allegedly )
Back seats never sat in
stacks of bills / receipts from day one of ownership
Loads of proof engine oil changed at every 7000 miles
But I think the independents may have had being pulling the wool on sub standard workmanship and him paying over the odds ?
Come across a couple of bodges and hence why possibly he got rid ? poor starter on a morning, needed a new plastic fuel rail at £100 quid but the garage just taped it up and probably advised him to get rid ?

Just that I have sunk so much money and time repairing it and getting sort of near right over the last three years its an insult for the crap part ex price
to buy someone else's problems ... because they will be

Mine is quite solid underneath, looks like new in places possibly Galvanised chassis dip ? but then I have seen a few SW's with patches on the sills so I don't know if there was a difference in Hatch to estate versions or weak / water traps to attract corrosion

Just need a few days of sunshine and dry weather so I can fix it
 

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I thought my 307 was going to be good one
1 owner from new - ex Post office master ? ( Allegedly )
Back seats never sat in
stacks of bills / receipts from day one of ownership
Loads of proof engine oil changed at every 7000 miles
But I think the independents may have had being pulling the wool on sub standard workmanship and him paying over the odds ?
Come across a couple of bodges and hence why possibly he got rid ? poor starter on a morning, needed a new plastic fuel rail at £100 quid but the garage just taped it up and probably advised him to get rid ?

Just that I have sunk so much money and time repairing it and getting sort of near right over the last three years its an insult for the crap part ex price
to buy someone else's problems ... because they will be

Mine is quite solid underneath, looks like new in places possibly Galvanised chassis dip ? but then I have seen a few SW's with patches on the sills so I don't know if there was a difference in Hatch to estate versions or weak / water traps to attract corrosion

Just need a few days of sunshine and dry weather so I can fix it
Sounds like you’ve done loads of work already not sure what engine you have

If you’ve not got a dpf dmf now doubtful you’ll gain much switching i got rid of mine for 3 main reasons
Paintwork was very very poor
I could no longer do hardly any of the work myself so was paying labour the advantage of older car was less
When i got mine i had little option other than remove the dpf writing was on the wall for mot fail for that reason and nothing would have persuaded me to have one fitted

I agree re part ex i got a good price but i aint an idiot i really got a couple of hundred but no come back as I understand it would be used for spares of which it had some good partsit still had 6 months mot
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
2004 1.4 HDI

30 quid tax and frugal
Only thing that's good is always starts, never let me down or stranded, when the clutch went I still got it home .... how I don't know
Its got a solid flywheel so no nasty surprises and an external slave cylinder not like the modern era when is fails or explodes it needs gearbox off or new clutch because of contamination

It needs 4 new tyres , new catalyst as the one that's on is pin hole thin
Seen used ones online dearer than brand new parts ( Klarius ? any good)

I have new rear springs and rear spring arm bushes in stock with rear brake pipes ( brake fluid flush and change also... been 2 years since last time)

But I have to sort the engine out / injectors EGR valve (blanked at present)
and may change the coolant this year as I would imagine its never been changed
also thinking of power steering oil change, I would imagine its going to be a vacuum the reservoir top up several times unless there is a drain ?
I have a pair of steering rod arms / knuckles in stock to fit

Engine service / fuel filter etc when I am in the guts of repair

Found some underseal in the shed the other day, brand new 5 litre tin, years old so I don't know whether its worth brushing it on underneath when doing other repairs or is that an advisory on the MOT I don't need ?

Yeah, When I first got it, I had the depollution fault flashed up and thought here we go ... but sorted that and never done that again since

Maybe the battery is due a replacement as that's still the same since I bought it

Last time I did a whole lot of work on a past car, spent loads of time and effort and money, second day out on the road a drunk driver rammed me up the backside and wrote it off in a hit and run
just to start again ... 309 project
 

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So car youve got is grand no need buy someone else’s cast off

Brake Fliud easy and I’d do that on any car i got anway springs bushes I’d do if its in need

Steering fluid if yours is electric like mine was please get the correct fluid someone on mine had put the wrong fluid a d it wrecked the steering rack a pig of a job my pump was inside of wheel arch took liner out the pump had a pipe that i removed and i recall moving the wheel left and right then reconnect pipe fill and i then changed again but i did have a new used rack

Underseal hate that job me id only do it if it looked like it needed it

Injectors if can put on are good for starting and power egr valve would only do if car failed test though not a bad price

Boots needed any car cat any car hit and run any car summary if you can do the work might as well do your own plus cheap road tax is a bonus :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When I looked at a car costing a couple of grand, they offered me £350
When they said the new car would cost £125 a month I thought I would chance my arm and get another three months out of 307, a year and more later still and debt free with money in bank

Interesting about steering oil .... I was thinking just Dextron but will have to have a read up about that

Have winter tyres on a current set of alloys, I picked up cheaply as new
So looking for a decent set of good rubber not china or part worn stuff to overpriced compared to new when I switch back to summer rubber

In my mad surfing world of looking at cars ... looking at a Jag xf running on Barums thinking if last owner couldn't afford decent tyres wonder was else was neglected ?

Next banger I would buy would be a keeper
 

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Jag Bit more expensive lol

The fluid i got was Fluide LDS made by total bought from stealers though its available online as well guess most comparable fluids would do but i woud think twice before doing a rack again :thumb:
 
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